Hi We also determine summer, spring, autumn and winter same way using daily average temperature with that 5 days in row (consequetive) for confirming purposes. Summer starts when average temperature reaches 10 (50 F) Celsius degree after spring and ends when temperature fell below 10 Celsius degree after summer. Spring starts when average temperature reach 0 (32 F) Celsius degree after winter and ends when average temperature reach 10 Celsius degree in summer. Autumn starts when average temperature fall under 10 Celsius (50 F) degree after summer and ends when average temperature fall below 0 (32 F) Celsius degree in winter. Winter starts when average temperature fall below 0 Celsius degrees (32 F) after autumn and ends in spring when average temperature reaches 0 Celsius degrees (32 F). That is our 4 seasons in year. I grow here pear tree variety Aunen Päärynä and Pepi (Pyrus Communis), those 2 pear treee i have bought. When we came here, where we currently live, our garden has also following fruit trees and berries, we do not know varieties of those: 2 apple trees, now we have only 1 apple tree, because mine dad cutted that one out, because it did not prodouce good way fruits. We also have 1 black currant bush, 3 red currant bush, 3 gooseberries and raspberries, do nnot ask how many raspberries we have. We had also rhubarb, but we no longer have that. Next we may look at weather in Finland, where i live as Jellyman suggested it. Let's take a look 2008 year weather from 1.1.2008.-31.12.2008 and also try to determine those seasons same time (If you wonder mine date how i wrote it, i wrote them as they are wrote in Finland, first day, then month, then year). On 1.1.2008. new year day temperature ranged high of 0 C to low of - 1 C (Zone 9) . January is winter month here. In year 2008 we had warm winter, and temperature did not fall below -17 Celsius degree, as i have told earlier. On humidity high was 100 % on that date, in other words maximum what is possible, average humidity was 93% and low 80 % humidity. Those numbers are quite high. Finland is humid country. This high humidity keeps and helps to keep temperature quite high considerering our northern location (Thanks to gulf stream). For comparision Charlotte, North Carolina, U.S.A. had same day high of 92%, average of 58% and low of 24% humidity. Then during next few days temperature fell somewhat and reached bottom on 5.1.2008. Tempature high was -7 C, average -8 C and low -9 C (zone 8). Same time air came drier also with high of 73%, average 65% and low 53 %. After that temperature started to rise and reached 11.1.2008. above freezing level. Yes in middle of winter. It is normal here southern Finland to have above freezing level temperatures. If you think does our plants come out of dormancy, no they don't. It is too dark in winter, day length is too small/little and no enough light(sun) in this time to year to do photosynthesis. High was 3 C (37 F), average 2 C and low 0 C (zone 10). Humidity got very high levels, high 100%, average 98%, low 81%. Every day during 11.1.2008-20.1.2008 reached above 0 Celsius degrees freezing temperature. Lows was 0 C or - 1 C 11.1.2008-19.1.2008. So tempeature was quite stable and not much difference in day and hight. During 12.1.2008.-14.2.2008 daily high temperature was quite stable ranged from high + 3 C to low - 2 C. On 28.1.2008. we had cold snap of - 13 C (zone 7) as low temperature, altought high was 0 C. On 16.2.2008 we got our coldest 2008 temperature low of -17 (zone 7) Celsius , high was - 3 C and average temperature of - 10 C ( 14 F). And again dried air too. Then on 22.2.2008. daily high temperature reached again above freezing temperature for many days in row (22.2.2008-3.2.2008 all days had at least 0 C temperature as high temperature.) Then 3 cold days on 3.3.2008-5.3.2008 when temperature dropped as low as - 12 C (10 F , zone 8) on 5.3.2008. And yes humidity dropped little bit again (to low of 59%). It looks like low humidity air is colder air here, so high humidity keeps us warmer than dry air. On 6.3.2008 highs reached once again above freezing temperature (all days from 6.3.2008 to 18.3.2008 had at least high of 0 C temperature). Warmest day was 10.3.2008 when temperature high was 5 C (41 F), average 3 C and low 2 C (Yes no below freezing tempeature on that day, that can too happen on winter here occasionally). That was warmest day so far 2008 year. After winter last cold blast came before spring. Temperature dropped again to year lowest temperature on 22.3.2008 with high of - 4 C and average - 11 C temperature. After that sun started to be enough high and day length enough long that we started to heading toward spring and warmer temperatures. First daily high temperatures started to rise higher. On 28.3.2008. high temperature broked 0 Celsius level and did not fall below that until next autumn. On same day average temperature reached 0 Celsius degrees. During next 6 days we had following average temperature : 28.3.2008. 0 C 29.3.2008. 1 C 30.3.2008. 2 C 31.3.2008. 5 C 1.4.2008. 4 C 2.4.2008. 5 C Average temperature has reached 0 Celsius degrees in 5 days in a row. It means that our winter ended here and spring started on 28.3.2008 (or 29.3.2008 if you use global summary of the data). On last day on march 31.3.2008. highs reaches 10 Celsius (50 F) degrees first time in year 2008. How our spring processed for that date? Here is what happened. We still had below freezing 0 Celsius temperatures as daily low on many days in april, but not all days. Low was 3.4.2008. - 3 C (25 F) , and even as low as - 5 C (23 F) on 20.4.2008. On 16.4.2008 and 17.4.2008. 10 C was again reached as high temperature. Humidity is lower somewhat now, high was for example on 24.4.2008 high 100%, average 62%, 31% during warm spell. Starting as 22.4.2008. we got first sign that summer is coming as we got warm spell for many days and high temperature rose to well over 10 Celsius degrees (50 F). Temperature rose to as high as 21 (69 F) Celsius degrees on 2.5.2008 and 3.5.2008. Actually on 3.5.2008 accoring global summary of the day temperature rose even higher as high was recorded at 22,8 C (73,2 F). Starting on 25.4.2008 we had following average temperatures : 25.4.2008. 5 C 26.4.2008. 7 C 27.4.2008. 7 C 28.4.2008. 11 C 29.4.2008. 12 C 30.4.2008. 12 C We have now 5 days with average temperature of 5 Celsius degrees. That means 2008 growing season has started! Growing season started on 25.4.2008. Actually global summary of the day has growing season start day even 2 days earlier as of 23.4.2008. During that warm period low temperature also rose above freezing temperature, 27.4.2008. low was 1 C, low temperature rose to high of 10 C on 3.5.2008. 3.5.2008 high was 21 C, average 15 C, and low of 10 Celsius degrees temperature. On 6.5.2008 we got freeze as low temperature dropped to - 1 C during growing season, while high temperature was 11 C and average temperature 5 C. Average humidity was 61 % on that day. We got still got some late freezes after that, which caused problems, because growing season was already started. We got 5 freezes more on as follows : 13.5.2008 - 3 C (26 F) Ouch!, 16.5.2008 - 3 C, 17.5.2008 - 1 C , 20.5.2008 - 2 C and as late as 28.5.2008, - 1 C. Yes late may freeze. I think we voided those on 2009 year. On 22.5.2008 temperature warmed and average temperature reached 10 C (50 F) and stayed there for 5 days in row, effieciently ending spring and started summer (using global summary of the day data). Spring is our shortest time as longer day length quickly rises temperatures. So our spring lasted from 29.3.2008. to 22.5.2008. So our spring did not last even 2 months after turning to summer. Less than 2 months to get 10 Celsius (18 F) gain to average temperature. This gives us image how fast our sun starts here to draw us from winter to summer. Starting with 20.5.2008 daily high temperature reached every day at least 10 C (50 F) until 2.9.2008. That is 105 days in row. Last freeze in spring was 29.5.2008. and first autumn freeze was on 30.9.2008. about 4 months later. So frost free growing season was total 124 days. During summer highest temperature was reached on 26.7.2008 27,1 C (80,8 F). On that date average temperature 20,7 C (69,3 F) and low was 12,7 C (54,9 F). On that date humidity was high 94%, average 63 % and low of 34 %. Dew point was high 15 C, average 13 C, low 10 C. Charlotte, North Carolina, U.S.A. had dew point of 22 C, 18, C 18 C respectively so those numbers are quite high i think. Air is still humid here. Finland has no dessert, it rains about evenly all year here. During summer lows is mainly around 10 C (50 F) some days warmer nights some day lower. But generally no freeze as you can see above. Lows can as high as 15 C and as low as 0 C near freezing level. Altought that happens rarely here. Summer ended here on 9.9.2008. as average temperature dropped below 10 Celsius and started autumn, but growing season still continued. So our summer lasted from 22.5.2008-9.9.2008 total 111 days. Over 3 months was our summer year 2008. In autumn our range from daily high and daily low generally starts go smaller. Differences from daily high to daily low as humidity starts increase. For example on 16.9.2008. daily high temperature was 6 C, average temperature 5 C and low temperature 5 C. So temperature ranged by 1 C during that day. But growing season still continued. 20.9.2008-30.9.2008 temperatures reached every day 10 C (50 F). Most of those was freeze free day as well, expect 30.9.2008. Our growing season started on 23.4.2008 and it ended on 27.10.2008 as average temperature dropped below 5 Celsius degrees. Our growing season lasted over 6 months during 2008 growing season. Growing season was 188 days long. Starting on day 22.10.2008 temperature no longer was able to reach 10 Celsius degrees. Few Celsius degree freezes occured somedays until more harder freeze occured on 20.11.2008 - 7 C. Humidity reached november 2008 many days maximum 2008 100% for example on 9.11.2008 maximum humidity was 100%, average 98 % and low 93%. Air is very humid, we also have fog this time this year. On that date temperature was high 7 C, average 5 C and low 2 C, no freezes. In this time year it can many days in row like this. Humid, warm, foggy, dark, and generally little differences day high and day low temperature. This differs us from Alaska weather. Autumn continue quite long to the end of the year here. Daily high temperature dropped below 0 Celsius degrees in autumn first time 20.11.2008. Our winter started on 19.11.2008. as average temperature dropped below 0 Celsius degrees and stayed there 5 days in a row. So autumn lasted from 9.9.2008-19.11.2008. Our autumn was little bit over 2 months long. This qives quite good and long time to our plants prepare to winter and harden. Remember this is end of november 2008 when winter started, only little bit 1 month to darkest day in northern hemishpere. So as you can see our winters do not last very long before spring comes. Even on december temperature can reach and go above freezing temperature. For example every day 25.11.2008-5.12.2008. reached at least 0 C, actually 28.11.2008. reached as high as 5 C (41 F). But during this time of year it is very dark and short day length. So our darkness and lack of day light efficiently push our plants dormancy even thought temperature are not very cold and could be above freezing temperature 0 C. So i do not really any more worry to see mine pear tree to have leafs on branches on november. I saw one november mine pear tree to have leafs of branches, and think what are you doing? It got little bit snow to ground as well that time. If you think what happened? Nothing, snow melted away next day (Temperature rose above 0 Celsius degrees) and my pear dropped all her leaves on next day and 1 day. No damage, if you ask it. On 8.12.2008-14.12.2008 was again period of above freezing temperature with low - 5 C on 8.12.2008 with humidity averaging over 90 %. Still humid air, yes. On 28.12.2008 low was - 10 C which milded to - 3 C low on year last day on 31.12.2008. with high temperature 0 C (32 F). That was 2008 year weather here.

Lind, I'm pretty sensitive to drainage because I've lost so many trees to it. A few years ago I got tired of pulling out dead trees, so I installed a field tile in most of the orchard area. It drains a lot of sub-surface water into a neighbor's pond. The tile stopped trees from dying but many trees still weren't thriving, so I've been slowly converting more trees to mounds. It's just what I have to do here. When I pull one out, I build a mound if I plan to go back w/ a peach. In my area, which may be different from MD, the soil stays wet from about Nov. thru June of the following year. It's the months of April, May, and June that the soggy soil does the trees in. In the past I've made my mounds out of regular native soil because it's free. This has worked very well for me. Below is an old photo I took this Spring. The tree directly to the left of my son was just starting it's second leaf/year. The tree in the mound on the right was also starting it's second leaf. However, the one on the right was not in a mound the first year and suffered stunting. So last fall, I dug it out, built a mound, and replanted. This picture was taken before either tree had put on any appreciable second leaf shoot growth. Both trees were the same size at purchase (bout 3/4"). My other trees in mounds perform similarly. Lately, I'm running out of places to dig, so I've been experimenting using wood chips as a base and putting soil on top as the growing medium. By the textbooks, this is a no no. But like I say, this is an experiment. This week I just got through building 10 more mounds for more trees. Rented a Dingo to build the mounds. Have 18 peach trees coming for next season, and have a mound for every one.

I think you should start small and easy to see how you like the additional work. I think you ask a very good question so here's why I grow certain things: - tomatoes, like everyone else, plus I discovered oven drying paste tomatoes is a great way to preserve. They take up less room in the freezer. Plus I found a curried cherry tomato recipe that makes an excellent sauce similar to chili sauce. I like it on breakfast sandwiches. You might find you love salsa but it's not something we eat much of. - peppers: I grow a wide variety since I found a local grower who has an amazing selection. We love peppers. To freeze, just stem, seed and cut in slices. Stick in a freezer bag. Last year I discovered a recipe for roasted red pepper soup. Yum! - herbs: you'll use more fresh herbs if they are right outside your door. Start with the familiar ones. - summer squash: easy to grow and the abundance always launches my zucchini recipe frenzy...everything from pickles to cookies, to side dishes. My DIL makes zucchini relish. - bush beans: I have found the filet type is my husband's favorite. He likes young, tender beans. I do not preserve them so I don't plant a lot. - sugar snap peas: one of our first fresh vegetables here in NH. Expensive in the store. Tastier grown at home. - strawberries: we all love them. I don't grow enough to freeze. - blueberries: I'm just starting out. It might have been smarter just to go to PYO places. Very easy to freeze. - spinach: This may become my favorite garden crop. We have to sow it early (like now) to get a good crop. Last year we had a very mild winter and my August planted spinach wintered over. I think I picked some for salad in March. This is in the category of wonderful things from the garden that are possible even in March in NH. - beets: boy, we love beets and beet greens. I still have some in the frig from last fall. (I think they're still ok.) I'm experimenting with cold storage. I had some in the garage for part of the winter. - lettuce: I'm real iffy on this. First, finding a flavor I like and one that doesn't go bitter. There is so much the average growing book doesn't tell you. I think I need to be more careful about which ones to grow at different times of the season. - winter squash: the bugs did in most of my crop last year but I've found two varieties that are fantastic keepers. This means I can stick squash in the basement all winter and still have some in March. No freezing. No canning. To me, this is an ideal vegetable if you have the room. - parsnips: another vegetable that improves with over-wintering in the garden so we can eat fresh as soon as the ground thaws enough for digging. - kale: my husband hates it. I love it. I brown bag my lunches so I'll grow a little bit for salads and sneak some into occasional soups. - cucumbers are ho hum for us. I really liked a particular variety, poona kheara, but my husband is not a big salad eater and hates pickles. - I also love rhubarb but my husband hates it. The asparagus bed would be wonderful if I hadn't botched starting it in the first place. Probably not good if you have limited space. We do not grow corn because of critter problems. It's much easier to buy at the local farmstand. onions: we eat a lot of onions but I haven't learned the knack of growing a decent sized onion. I should grow lots of scallions because I use them a lot. What I have found is that an abundance forces me to find new ways to use something. I try not to grow too much of anything but I'm always surprised. I thought tarragon flavored sugar snap pickles were wonderful but nobody else did. It is so much fun in summer to pick a fresh pepper for our grilled hamburgers. This past winter I have learned to make my own pizza dough so this summer I will make and can pizza sauce, trying to duplicate our favorite brand (Muir Glen). Happy Gardening!

Ada, I would have faith in anything Sooner Plant Farm grows as long as their own info on their website indicates it is cold-hardy to zones 6 and 7. Even though Sooner Plant farm ships nationally, I believe they started out growing for the Oklahoma market and then branched out as word spread about the quality of their plants. I've never seen or heard one single complaint about their plants or their customer service and that is rare nowadays. Google and look for reviews and you'll see that they have only postitive ones, or at least they did the last time I checked on them. As for S.S.E., the yearbook is the best entertainment in town. Who needs movies or DVDs or TV shows or music when you can read endlessly about heirloom varieties. I don't graft and have no intention of learning. There's only so many hours in a day, and I am already overcommitted. The best source of knowledge I know with regards to grafting is Scott. Well, Randy probably grafts too, but I am not sure. If you really want to learn about grafting, post a request for grafting info on its own thread so people can see it in the subject box, and I am sure that any experienced grafters we have here will respond. I've toyed with the idea of grafting tomato plants onto Maxifort root stock to see if I get improved disease-resistance or more vigorous plants, but there again, it comes down to how many hours there are in a day (not enough of them). Dawn