Hello, Has anyone gained any insight on this topic over the past year? I'm trying to figure out how to set things up for the season and would like to move many of the containers off of the deck and out to the edge of the yard. The containers are multiplying so rapidly that space on the deck is becoming limited. Last year the routine was to add the fertilizer concentrate to the watering can, fill it inside with tepid water, carry it out to the deck and water, then repeat as needed until all the plants are happy. The new location will be on the other side of the yard, which is too far to keep running back to the house to fill the 2 gal. watering can. I'm considering getting an EZ-Flo fertilizer injector which feeds into the hose bib. Then 150 ft. of hose (I still have to measure that to make sure) and a watering wand should do the trick (can anyone recommend a good watering wand?). The plants are primarily conifers, maples, and chile peppers, and my concern is the water temp. As others have noted , water from the hose bib is cold even in the summer - will this have implications on the plants' vitality? I'm especially concerned for the peppers. Plan B is to get a reservoir (probably a garbage can, but it could be a rain barrel), install a hose bib near the bottom, and place this in a shaded location near the plants. I envision sitting the reservoir on a table for ease of accessibility. I might have to fill a watering can, I don't know if it would generate the pressure to use a watering wand. Fill the reservoir with water and in a day or so I'll have a source of water at ambient temperature. Ideally, one could add fertilizer concentrate to the can, but in practice though, the can doesn't have a tight lid, and evaporation will result in concentration of the contents. On the other hand, there's an adapter you can get for the fertilizer injector to allow it to function in low flow applications (think drip), and that might be applicable. Plan B requires somewhat more work, but does not have the cold water liability. Also, what with the reservoir up on a table, I wonder what will happen when that big storm rolls through. I'll make a decision soon so I that can buy what I need. I'd be really interested in any additional info on use of cold water in the summer. Also, I'd love any feedback on Plan A or Plan B, or any other alternatives. Alex

I think insect screen might block too much air flow resulting in over heating. You should be able to make any bird netting, hardware cloth, or shade netting work if installed properly and the holes are small enough. Figure out where they're getting in and close those areas off. Problem solved.

StressBaby... I'm not so sure about tha causes of citrus leaf drop. I have 5 or 6 citrus, a couple of mandarin oranges, a couple of grapefruit and a couple of I-forget-what-i-planteds. The oranges tended to get infested with spidermites over the winter so a few years ago a decided to toss them in the garage for the winter as i just didn't want the mites spreading to other plants. My garage walls are insulated and i do have insulated doors, but there is no addotional heat. All heat is from the windows (I have 3 large south facing windows), what must leak out from the house (insulated 2x6 contruction) and whatever heat comes from the engines. I am in zone 5, massachusetts. I do occasionally get ice on the floor if the outside temps stay below zero for a few days. That first year, i did get the leaf drop you describe. I really thought i had lost them all. One lost about 90% of it's branches, the rest lost most of their leaves. But come Spring, they cam back to life and recovered fully. The following year, i decided to take better care of them since they deserved a bit of credit. I made sure i stuck to a weekly watering plan and that was enough to prevent almost ANY leaf drop. I did get a bit of freeze damage on one tree closet to the doors. This was closer to the springtime when they had started sending out new growth. SO i have now overwintered the in the unheated garage for 3 winters. Temps have been as low as -19F at night outside, and i hardly get the leaf drop. I am of the mind that it was completely due to my neglect that first winter and the lack of water. This winter i plan to put a themometer in the garage so i have an idea of what the temps actually are, but i am pretty much amazed they do so well. Poppa

It is a monumental task -- we have been trying to bury noxious weeds in our very large veggie garden via sheet composting so understand your problem. First the blackberries: right now the soil is moist and we are using a mattock to get them out. They are not deeply rooted so come out fairly easily this time of year. Then we pile and burn -- bits of them will reroot and the thorns are nasty. Last spring we used big sheets of cardboard (that had come with some hardwood flooring)to cover a section of the garden and then scrounged what we could -- a pile of leaf mulch, shredded paper, wood chips, the neighbour's manure pile and some compost and piled the layers on. We didn't wait too long, planted it and the growth was phenomenal. We did another section of the garden later in the summer and planted it right away and once again, the growth was huge and we had a crop in the fall and winter. Perhaps you will have to just choose a section at a time and do what you can handle. I learned a lot from the soil, mulch and compost section of Garden Web. It's certainly easy and fun using this lasagna method of gardening.