Dirr says June-July 1000 ppm IBA-solution, peat, perlite, mist... also July, untreated cuttings in sand rooted 65%; 96% with 8000 ppm IBA-talc in 8 weeks. 100% w/ 50 ppm IBA soak, 6 hours, in 5 weeks. Basal or middle cuttings in comparison to tip are improved with hormone.

So, it sounds pretty easy, but I would take cuttings off of the ends of branches nearest the bottom of the shrub, since they are youngest, and younger growth roots better, always. Remove flowers and buds, poke holes with a pencil in a pot filled with sand or perlite or some such, place the cuttings in the holes and firm the medium around them, put a couple of chopsticks around the outside edge of the pot to keep plastic off, and cover the whole thing with a clear plastic bag. Place it in a shady spot and keep it moist.

iow, Put a twig in some sand and cover it with plastic?

"So, it sounds pretty easy, but I would take cuttings off of the ends of branches nearest the bottom of the shrub"

you mean the little new shoots coming off the main branches nearest the ground: cut them off from the main trunk, then strip everything off. I've got some that are getting pretty long (anything up to a few feet). I'm gonna have to look in the morning how long and if theres anything on it. And if how long then cut from what end? Are there prefered characteristics?

btw, theres one thats only about 5 yrs old, 6 feet high, on the sidewalk next door that came from it somehow by itself: is that even better? WIll my twig be the same height in the same number of years?

I've got a black pot about 16"x16". Should this be enough until transplant?

The one near the sidewalk is likely to be a seedling, so it won't be exactly like the mama tree. If you want one like it, but not exactly, then sure, seeds would be a good way to go. In order to get an exact copy, you need to root cuttings.

Cut off some small branches, then cut the ends off of those, about pencil thickness, 8-12" long. Remove the leaves on the lower half, and put the stripped lower half of the cuttings into moistened sand or perlite. I'd use several gallon pots instead of one larger one.

Keep moist, keep them covered with but not touching the plastic until you see signs of growth, then gradually remove the plastic (or cut holes in it) to let more air in over several days. Slowly harden them off thereafter, and feed once they're acclimated to normal outside conditions.

I would love to ask Q upon Q. How would I google this: "growing from root cuttings". or "root cuttings"?

The pencil thick at the base ones are about 24" long and have branching off close to the tip, but the 12" long ones with no branching are only half that thick at the base; in between length theres a little branching at the tips. To get pencil thick at base and 12" long, I have to go up tree and twig is older wood-looking. Which is best?

My pot is only 12"D x 12"H. Will the growth go directly from the pot into the final location, or different pot(s) in between? Can I end with 1 in this pot and start with a few 1L plastic margarine tubs? Approx how long in each container until say 4 foot high (transplantable height; only noticed it a few years for this next door)?

I think I would like to try a few twigs just to be sure, is this why you suggest "several gallon pots instead of one larger one."?

What is it going to be like removing this type of root system from the 50 yr old tree?

google "softwood cuttings" or "semi-hardwood cuttings"

Younger wood is best, even if it's thinner, and you can cut to length, but according to Dirr just use the tips of the branches for most success. Yes, I said try several pots, with a few cuttings in each pot, to better ensure success.

Ideally you'd want to keep it in the same container until planting out (reduces transplant shock) and should get a 4' shrub in a few years.

Here's a good link, although they recommend cutting smaller, which isn't necessary with RoS.

Here is a link that might be useful: cuttings

bently on, The easiest way I have found to root hardy Rose of Sharon is to take 4 inch long cuttings of just thickened fairly new stem tips from the shrub, just prior to its setting bloom buds period. Remove all the leaves except the top two or three, and pinch off any suggestions of pre-bloom bud forming bumps that might be found near the top most end of the tip.

You should have taken 4 or 5 such tips. Next, insert them into individual, moistened soil, pots that you prefilled with clean well draining potting soil.

Press the potting soil firmly around each inserted stem, and sprinkle the pots with more water. Then put all of them under the shadiest side (possibly the Northeast side) under a dappled shade tree's canopy. This will work best if there is also a privacy fence or other similar thing which produces such eastern shade. A covered patio might also provide enough filtered light.

keep the pots gently sprinkled. or even misted if you have such a set-up. Making sure keep the soil moist, but not soggy. by late fall your tips should be well rooted enough to repot them into one size up pots and then sink those, pots into a sheltered planting bed. Let the young rose of sharon go dormant and cover them with mulch or straw through the coldest part of the winter.

In the following Spring, just before they break dormancy, plant them out into the landscape bed where you want them to continue growing.