Roots exposed Small Shrubs
gina_indiana
15 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
15 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Exposing Root Flare -Newly planted Crape Myrtle
Comments (7)Gigim, I did see the other conversation. Personally, I might have planted it a little further out, because I like some clearance around plants and that crape myrtle will fill up that space pretty quickly. I don't think moving it is a necessity though. Most commercial nurseries would probably have planted it that close when doing a landscape job. You can prune the plant as it grows to keep it from growing over into your way on the steps. Also, I think examining the plant in context (even more than we can see in the other thread's picture) is important. In other words, looking at a picture is not like being there. Bottom line for spacing is for you to imagine the plant at it's "mature" size (and it will almost surely grow larger than that, eventually) and go from there. A simplistic definition for adventitious root is a root that grow from the trunk, above the original root flare, when the lower part of the trunk is buried below the surface. A plant will grow these roots to compensate for being planted too deeply. Probably the biggest trouble with planting a tree a little too deeply is that adventitious roots can grow around the trunk and become girdling roots as they and the tree grow larger. If planted a lot too deep (a relative thing), lower roots may die off due to a lack of oxygen. From your description and the picture, it's very unlikely that your crape is planted deep enough for this problem, especially if it's in reasonably well draining soil....See MoreBury the graft or expose the root flare?
Comments (7)Here in Massachusetts, the county extension service is generally at the forefront of the latest university recommeded horticultural practices. However, with the passing of time, some of these recommendations can contradict earlier recommendations i.e. whether to stake---or not, whether to amend the soil generously---or not and whether to dig sloped planting holes or straight. Although I don't know that planting deep for the purpose of allowing the scion to grow it's own roots was a "recommended" practice, at one time, it was an accepted one. While doing a lilac planting (over 20 yrs ago), I discovered that five of the plants had arrived grafted to privet rootstock. Not wanting that growth habit for the hedgerow, I buried them deep. After the fact, I called the county extension service to ask what to expect. I was told, matter of factly, that the understock would rot away after a couple of years and I would be left with own-root plants. Although they didn't put on any top-growth for a couple of years, when I dug them up to check, the desired variety had indeed sent out a root system and the understock had rotted away---just as the county extension service had told me it would. Now that I'm older---and a little more cautious---and despite having done so successfully, I don't know that I would do this with something that I paid a lot of money for or really cared that the plant not succumb. Maybe, as Ken suggests, this practice should be forgotten with prejudice. I assume the relatively young age of the lilacs (24"-36" high) and perhaps my sandy soil contributed to my success. If you're curious---and you have a plant of each to spare, give it a try :-)...See MorePreparing soil with lots of exposed roots
Comments (5)It's not going to be easy, and unless that's the ONLY place you have to garden, I would heartily recommend you put your garden somewhere else. Magnolias have brittle, fleshy roots, close to the surface, so you can't really do much digging without damaging them. Because they are so close to the surface of the soil, it's hard to add much - as in a raised bed effect - without putting too much on the surface of the soil and causing a smothering problem (over 6 inches is too much). And also because they are close to the surface, whatever you plant under them, as well as having to cope with the shade they cast, will have to cope with the roots growing into the "good" soil and taking most of the nutrients and water. If you aren't planning to plant anything else there, but just want to improve the soil for the magnolias, then adding almost anything organic - shredded wood or bark mulch, dried grass clippings in a thin layer, chopped fallen leaves, etc., etc. - in a layer no more than 6 inches thick, and keeping whatever you put down at least 2 inches (3-6 is better) away from the trunks, so you don't encourage rot or fungus - should be fine. Don't bother to dig it in, just layer it down and keep it slightly moist. It will break down and be incorporated by earthworms, etc., all on its own. If you have weeds, etc. under the trees that you want to eliminate, a layer of cardboard or 4-6 sheets of newspaper laid under the organic matter will kill off grasses and most weeds. The persistant, deep-rooted ones (horse nettle, Johnson grass, wire grass, docks, etc., etc.), will come up through the mulch eventually, but can be sprayed with vinegar or pulled, and eventually get discouraged and die. Good luck....See MorePlanting high, exposed feeder roots
Comments (4)Planting 'high' is now a pretty well accepted and recommended practice for ANY soil condition, poor drainage or not. There's a variety of reasons supporting this - settling (collapse of the soil surrounding the roots - common with containerized trees and shrubs), less chance of overwatering, improved drainage, minimizing soil interface issues between native soil/backfill and the rootball soil and to maximize soil oxygen levels (lowering risk of transplant shock). It has been established that trees planted with at least a quarter to a third of the rootball above grade establish faster than those planted at grade level. Feeder roots should not be present on the top of the rootball - that is not their 'normal' location on a healthy, well-grown young tree. If they are present, it is an indication that tree has been grown too deeply, either in the field (for B&B stock) or in a container. Larger, structural roots are not so much of an issue as they are a) a better indication of a proper planting depth and b) not inclined to dessication like feeder roots would be. Regardless - virtually any respected and current tree planting resource will advise you NOT to cover the top of the rootball with backfill soil. Mulch is quite different but even then, mulch very lightly over the top of the rootball (feather out to a greater depth further away from the tree) and avoid any mulch touching the trunk....See Moregina_indiana
15 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
15 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
15 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
15 years agoHU-494957979
4 years ago
NHBabs z4b-5a NH
4 years ago
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