Thank you so much. The plants definitely got smaller after the lower leaves fell so I WILL go to a smaller pot because, like you said, even the previous one was slightly big, but they seemed to do OK. I just never understood how the roots would deal with that. I mean, my plant got smaller because the lower leaves fell, but the roots certainly didn't change, right? However, it appears the consensus is that the pot should be 1/3 of the diameter of the plant (so it's about how big the leaves are, not about the roots). As for blooming again, I read that some AV-s do take a break from blooming, particularly in the summer. I also read that a good plant blooms for 9 months and rests for 3. Maybe these two of mine went through their rest period over the summer. Who knows? I'll go back to doing everything by the book and we'll see what happens. Thank you again!

Hello, Silvia. I would routinely monitor to see if the symptoms persist or not. A smaller and more limited root system could be making it difficult for the plant to absorb the same amount of minerals needed to support the growth above ground. Here are a few of the basics that I would check: * make the soil as evenly moist as possible. maintain 3-4 inches of mulch up to the drip line and test the soil to make sure it is not wet. Water if the soil is almost dry or dry to the touch to a depth of 4" * the soil should be kept acidic (they will tolerate lightly alkaline soil too); test it with a soil pH kit available at many plant nurseries. * the soil should not be heavily fertilized as this can burn some roots; test the soil for high/low nitrogen/phosphorus/pottasium levels using a kit available at many plant nurseries. * check for salt built up in the soil too; it can cause a brownish-yellow leaf discoloration * make sure the plant leaves are not getting too much sun. If moved from an area where the leaves got little sun to one with more sun exposure, the leaves may temporarily react to the sunlight. If the exposure is not high, the leaves should adjust after a while. * make sure the plant has not sunk below the surrounding soil. * make sure there are few air pockets * the plant is stressed so try not to over-fertilize. * keep an eye for signs of camellia cankers and die back, a fungal disease (see the link below) Luis

THERE IS NO DOUBT IN MY MIND VIKANE KILLED THOUSANDS OF MY PLANTS AT MY HOME NURSERY SPECIALIZING IN MILKWEED. Other pesticide applications are also killing them. I have all the documentation. VIKANE DAMAGE PICTURES ARE BEING BLOCKED ON THE INTERNET! I want to fight this, and looking for more people with pictures of damage this pesticide that was designed as a CHEMICAL WEAPON. My hair fell out, myself and my husband almost died and have had to fight for my life for 2 years after allowed to tent 3x next door in 12 months and then again one month later a couple doors down for 4x in 13 months! Look at this distinctive burn mark on my stems. There were other pictures like this on the internet and now they are gone? Saw them when typed in Vikane damage. Now not there? Just found this document that shows the damage when high levels of Fluoride are introduced and shows the same pattern I have on my big green leaves all over the place. The only reason this is accessible is because from Korea. This info blocked from Americans by Terminix and Vikane makers. Read this study: https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/e82d/c22d2556acedab1158000241e15e13ba1835.pdf

Looks like older leaves dying off. No biggie. However, these plants don't typically carry a lot of leaves per stem to begin with ... particularly when grown indoors. They like it hot and bright. Avoid direct, hot afternoon sun.