The Shape of Things to Come --- pruning advice needed
onthebrinck
13 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Pruning/Shaping Advice
Comments (1)As a bonsai practitioner, it is very important that I have a good understanding of plants' energy flow and how to manage it, as well as a good feel for what they will or won't tolerate in the way of various procedures. It's not uncommon for me to start with ...... say a Japanese maple that might be 10 feet tall and reduce it to only a few inches in height, then start building toward a bonsai from there. This tree was 8-10 ft tall when I chopped the top off and lifted it from the ground and put it in the container. In a few years, after several more procedures to reduce and shape it, it will be a very attractive bonsai. Believe it or not, about the only things important to practiced bonsai enthusiasts in a tree like this is the thickness of the trunk and the root structure. As you can see the roots on this tree are ancient looking already, yet I grew the tree from a cutting and it's only about 4-5 years old. You actually employ the principle I described whenever you prune your shrubs; but you've probably never had anyone describe it quite like that - in such a way that outlines how to go about producing the greatest volume of foliage and branch ramification in the least amount of space; and how to chase the foliage back closer to the trunk. Accomplished bonsai practitioners understand pruning practices and the plant's predictable reaction to pruning intimately. Plants are reactive organisms, and they will react to pruning in the same way, whether in a bonsai pot, a 'regular' container, indoors, outdoors, or growing in the ground. We just need to be able to assess their energy levels so we have a good feel for their ability to tolerate stress, and to be able to factor in where the plant is in its growth cycle, along with other cultural factors. Al...See MorePruning advice needed 2.0
Comments (4)You didn't say what the mature height of each tree is expected to be, based on its rootstock, but that is the main determinant of how many tiers of scaffolding will fit on the tree. If the first cherry is supposed to end up as a 12' semi-dwarf and you start the lowest tier 3' to 4' off the ground and space the tiers 2 to 3 feet apart, the third set of scaffolding will likely be the last up the tree and then you will keep the leader in check. That's the overview. Your objective now is to get these very young trees pruned and trained to a good start. On tree #1 I'd start over by removing the two branches that appear to be near the bottom of the tree (it's hard to tell from the photo) and stub cut what's left at about 3'. On tree #2 I'd leave the leader alone for now and see if you get some shoot development where you cut off the "competing lateral" that might provide nascent scaffolding. I'd also try training those lower branches to a lower angle. On tree #3 I wouldn't trim the scaffolds but thin out shoots too close to one another. You want to have scaffolds that if you were looking down on the tree from above would appear to be at the 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions. From the photo those scaffolds on the left side of the tree look as though they will be competing for the same rays of sunshine. I think one's got to go....See MoreNeed Advice: Plants that don't need pruning
Comments (8)I live in Sarasota. In my area, jatrophas don't stop blooming during the year and don't have to have any pruning. For the last two months, the rondeletias (panama rose) have been blooming beautifully with not so much as a wince from the cold this year. They can get large, but look good at any size. Epidendrum orchids look great in beds and have started blooming since last month through July. My gardenias are just getting buds(late this year) so will be blooming late March and into April. Landscape begonias are just starting to bloom (late also), and will bloom through late April or May. The foliage looks good year round. Foliage plants can be just as pretty as flowers, so try to be open to those also. Their rewards are usually year-round. You did not tell us anything about your conditions, so you will get a mixed bag of suggestions. More details and pics would mean better information for you. Enjoy our paradise, if even for a few months! Anna...See MoreRoot prune? Or prune for shape?
Comments (1)Hi, 10 people will prolly give you 10 different versions, but IMHO I'd also be tempted to leave the branched you first picked (1st pic). It has a nice little movement to it. But you would have to try and get branches all along the trunk. So what I would try is to bring down the height a little bit - from the top there's a "v" shaped twigs, then a twig to the left and then another "v" shape. I would prune to that 2d "v" after getting rid of all the other branches to try an bring some budding all along the the trunk. The generally accepted practice is the first branch should be 1/3 the height of the tree so I would keep all buds above that line. Then I would let it grow out this year. I would let the lower branch grow with out trimming as the truck would get thicker below these branches and also the lowest branches are usually thicker than the upper branches. Short of putting it in the ground to thicken up, putting it into a larger pot will also help thicken it up. In the 2d pic the first thing I thought of is Broom Style. If it were mine, I would cut all the branches in half to encourage budding and more twigs. Just my 2¢....See Moreanitamo
13 years agoUser
13 years agohuttnem
13 years agoonthebrinck
13 years ago
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