I've actually talked with some seed companies about this for a project I was working on, and they (at least the ones I talked to) don't go to much trouble to verify the purity of the species of the trees that their seeds come from. I got the impression that they left it mostly up to the people that actually collected and sold them the seed to identify and verify the source. The companies probably aren't going to tell you who they got the seed from, so basically (at least with most oaks) it's just one big roll of the dice.

Canna seeds are tough. For best germination, they should be nicked. To nick them, you can use a file, a grinder, or even a drill to drill into the seed a little. You just want to break the hard surface of the seed just enough to see a little bit of the creamy white interior of the seed. After nicking, soak the seed in water for a day or two. You should see the seeds swell as they soak up the water. Then plant in moist soil. Keep the soil moist and warm and your seeds will sprout. If started early, like during winter in a greenhouse, cannas grown from seeds can bloom the first year. However, the seeds from the hybrid cannas do not produce plants like the parent plant. They usually revert back to the small flowered type with traits of both the wild canna and the parent. Once in a great while, you may get lucky and a viable canna will grow from one of those seeds, but it doesnt happen often.

After the rose fades and the petals fall off, the base will swell. These are called hips or heps. They are the seedpods that have resulted from your rose flowers. When they turn orange (or red or yellow, etc), you pull the hips from the plant, and I just use a butter knife to split them open. Inside them you will find the seeds and also some hair-like fuzz. Remove the seeds, making sure that all the hip tissue is removed (It has a hormone in it that slows germination). What you'll need to do to grow your seeds. Rose seeds: They should be as fresh as possible. Containers: jars, plastic bags, etc. I use baby food jars. Sterile soil mix. Bake soil in a pan at 250 degrees for 30 minutes, or use peat which naturally resists bacteria. I use jiffy peat pellets or good potting soil. Some people even use moistened paper towels, or sand. Whatever works for you. Hydrogen peroxide. It prevents damp-off, a condition where your seedlings rot at the soil line. Water 1-cup measuring cup and tablespoon Seed starter soil mix - In a 1-cup measuring cup, add 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide. Fill cup the rest of the way with water. This will be a 1:15 ratio. - Gradually add this mixture to your soil until it has the same moisture content as fresh-turned soil. If it's too wet it will rot the seeds. If it's too dry it will inhibit germination. If you get it too wet, you can either try squeezing it out or leaving it out overnight. Add the mixture to your jar and refrigerate. - Soak seeds in water/hydrogen peroxide solution for 6-12 hours. Place them in the chilled jar and return to refrigerator. - Wait three months. -It helps to vary the temperature a little during the last month in the fridge. Do NOT freeze! At the end of the three months, remove and find a warm spot (70-75 degrees) to place them in overnight. Check for germination of seeds, and then place back in the fridge overnight. Temps of 80 degrees will stop germination. - When looking for germination, you will see a single root-tip breaking through the seed. If you see lots of fuzzy little roots, it's mold (don't worry). There's a distinct difference. - If you need to add water to your planting mix, use the water-hydrogen peroxide mix. - Plant your germinated seedling. Make sure that it's covered by soil or the root will curl around the seed like a snail. Don't plant too deep, either; try for about 1/4 inch deep. - Water the seedling with the water-hydrogen peroxide mixture; don't over/under water. - You can lightly fertilize with a weak (about 25%) water-soluble fertilizer (like Miracle Gro) when they get their second leaves. - Repeat-blooming roses bloom after about 2 months. Once-blooming roses bloom after about two to three years. - If your rose seedlings wilt or die at the top, just below the first leaves, this may be due to an injury to the plant or because of a lack of humidity. If you think it's because of a lack of humidity, try to make a green house for it by using a pop bottle with the base cut off, but the top and sides left on, (used also for rooting cuttings). Open the top of the bottle to let air circulate a couple of days before removing the bottle. Replace bottle if plant begins to wilt. Milk bottles work too, so would even an aquarium, or whatever you can think of that will do the job.

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"