To propagate bulbs, corms, and tubers, dig them up and divide at the root. Growing from seed can take several years, give you unexpected results (maybe good, mostly bad), and might not happen at all (some are sterile or self-sterile). If you absolutely want to create hybrids then you'll need to isolate the flowers and pollinate yourself, but that's really pretty advanced. Otherwise, just wait for seepods to follow the flowers. Collect and sow the seed (most hardy bulb seed will need cold stratification), and wait for about 5 years :)

The seedpod is indeed the green thing where the flower used to be. The things at the bases of the leaves are bulbils, miniature bulbs. I kind of doubt you're going to get either viable seed or bulbils from a cutting that's been in water for a month, but you are welcome to prove me wrong! If you want to try planting the bulbils, break them very gently off the stem, keeping any roots that may be present, then put them pointed end up in good soil, very shallowly planted. Some of the pointy tip probably should be visible, for bulbils that tiny. The bigger the bulb, the deeper you plant it, so tiny bulbils grow mostly on the surface, whereas mature 6" diameter bulbs go 9" deep. Your chances of success will be best with any bulbil that has grown a little root. The only way you're going to be sure they're viable is to plant them, sooner than later. Don't let bulbils that small sit out in the air, without moist (not soggy) soil, once you've pulled them off the plant - they don't have the strength and water content to survive that. (Actually, it's best not to store ANY lily out of the ground, since they never go really dormant, but the smaller they get, the worse they can stand it). Tiny bulbils, if they survive at all, will probably take at least two years to reach blooming size. Jeanne

ivykat, if you add your zone to your tag line, we'll be able to be more helpful! It's unusual for foxgloves to be blooming now, at least in my neck of the woods. I have mostly basal foliage on mine, the remains of this year's blooming stems and some tiny seedlings that popped up from last year's flowers that were left in place to set seed. My onle experience with toad lilies was that I grew some from seed a few years ago, saw them bloom once, and let them get overwhelmed by surrounding plants - no sign of them since. If you need to rebuild this bed, I'd dig the plants and pot them up, keeping them in shade for the duration. Take any flowers first, and bring those indoors to enjoy, since they will probably wilt when the plants are dug. The advantage of starting the new garden now, as opposed to later in fall or next spring, will be worth the possible loss of a few plants. I usually just add tons of compost to the existing soil and turn it under, rather than adding soil; you can get a better long-term result that way. Buying soil is a tricky business, with new weed seed and questionable soil quality being the 2 main problems. Good luck with your project! The forum has not been too helpful because we're all out there gardening instead of posting, but stick with us because we'll all be back later in the season for good winter discussions, I hope.

Many hybrids are sterile and won't produce seed pods. But if you have lilies that can produce seed, the pod will form where the the flower once was. On my formosa lilies, the pods are appx. 3-4" long and dry upright on the stalk (they start out perpendicular to the stalk). They end up looking like a plant candelabra. I don't harvest them until they're fully dried and I notice the pods beginning to split open (usually a month or so after blooming) - they have hundreds, if not thousands of seeds in each pod. They're the only lily I've had that has reliably produced viable seed. My other lilies form nice clumps from offsets, which I seperate out in the Fall or early spring, if I decide I want to spread them out a bit.