Kristi -- As far as I know, those roses are fairly small, so I think they could exist in a really big container.

We just planted two "Roseville Noisette" plants in a pair of REALLY BIG glazed pots.
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We've had very large fuchsias in these pots for several years, and they'd be there still, but they were so subject to fuchsia gall mite, I couldn't stand looking at them. The Rosevilles should be about 3 ft., mature, which is smaller than the fuchsias, so I think they'll be fine there, indefinitely.

The roses we planted hit maturity about 4 years after planting. After 5 years, the wood began to rot out where it was in contact with the ground. AND the metal bands began to rust out. We did replace some of the metal strapping, but it was a temporary measure as the barrel staves were rotting from the ground up.

The problem is not containers, per-se.

It is drywood termites and subterranean termites -- a huge problem in much of California. (If they're not a problem in your area, you have my congratulations!). They are also the reason why we no longer buy wooden arbors for roses.

See this information:
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Drywood Termites

Drywood termites infest dry, undecayed wood, including structural lumber as well as dead limbs of native trees and shade and orchard trees, utility poles, posts, and lumber in storage. From these areas, winged reproductives seasonally migrate to nearby buildings and other structures usually on sunny days during fall months. Drywood termites are most prevalent in southern California (including the desert areas), but also occur along most coastal regions and in the Central Valley.

Drywood termites have a low moisture requirement and can tolerate dry conditions for prolonged periods. They remain entirely above ground and do not connect their nests to the soil. Piles of their fecal pellets, which are distinctive in appearance, may be a clue to their presence. The fecal pellets are elongate (about 3/100 inch long) with rounded ends and have six flattened or roundly depressed surfaces separated by six longitudinal ridges. They vary considerably in color, but appear granular and salt and pepperlike in color and appearance.

Winged adults of western drywood termites (Incisitermes minor) are dark brown with smoky black wings and have a reddish brown head and thorax; wing veins are black. These insects are noticeably larger than subterranean termites.
Subterranean Termites

Subterranean termites require moist environments. To satisfy this need, they usually nest in or near the soil and maintain some connection with the soil through tunnels in wood or through shelter tubes they construct. These shelter tubes are made of soil with bits of wood or even plasterboard (drywall). Much of the damage they cause occurs in foundation and structural support wood. Because of the moisture requirements of subterranean termites, they are often found in wood that has wood rot.

The western subterranean termite, Reticulitermes hesperus, is the most destructive termite found in California. Reproductive winged forms of subterranean termites are dark brown to brownish black, with brownish gray wings. On warm, sunny days following fall or sometimes spring rains, swarms of reproductives may be seen. Soldiers are wingless with white bodies and pale yellow heads. Their long, narrow heads have no eyes. Workers are slightly smaller than reproductives, wingless, and have a shorter head than soldiers; their color is similar to that of soldiers. In the desert areas of California, Heterotermes aureus, is the most destructive species of subterranean termites. Another destructive species in this group, the Formosan subterranean termite, Coptotermes formosanus, is now in California but restricted to a small area near San Diego. Unlike the western subterranean termite, Formosan subterranean termites swarm at dusk and are attracted to lights.
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Jeri

Let me just say, ick on the termites. I'm sure we have them here and I have seen their damage on lumber and old retaining walls on the property, but I hadn't really thought of them causing immediate harm to the wine barrels. I also garden my veggies with raised redwood beds... I just have so much wood in the garden it's just the way it is.

It's funny, I literally *just* today bought a huge glazed pot the same size as the one Clay is planting in the picture. Perhaps I'll use that instead of a wine barrel. I am getting excited about the prospect of finally getting these little roses planted, and that a large container might work for some of the smaller varieties I bought.

And I'm sure you can appreciate the crazy desire to try, just try, growing Reine Victoria in a wine barrel. I know, nuts, right? NUTS!

Have a good night and thanks for replying.

-k

I don't blame you in the least.

What's the worst that could happen? It doesn't work?

Jeri

My experience with half wine barrels has been exactly the same as Jeri's - within 5-10 years they disintegrate. We have also replaced several with several layers of those curved edging bricks - that works well, but it is, as my DH (who does it) explained to me, a pain!

Jackie

Hahahah. You're right. The worst is I fail in a few years and have to plant something else. No biggie.

So of course *now* I'm thinking, I have 2 bourbons: Honorine de Brabant and Reine Victoria. I'd like to grow them both, and I think I'm going to try them *both* in containers. (My SDLM is growing like gangbusters in a container, and I am guessing that these other 2 bourbons in my climate might benefit from the extra soil warmth and dryer conditions that containers can provide.)

I guess there's nothing lost if I'm wrong. I can always do something else later.

Jackie -- You're right. It's a MASSIVE pain.
We did it, oh, maybe 10 years ago now, and DO NOT want to have to do that again.

Jeri

I am loving the fact that you had that plant from when you got married. 23 years ago. How sweet.

Maybe the comments about daphnes refer to the more cold tolerant varieties. Here people mostly grow front-tender Daphne odora. Mine is going on 12 or 13 years. When it was a small plant, our then-puppy knocked it to the ground so it started growing sideways before sending all its branches upwards. It shows no signs of coming to the end of its life, and I'm encouraged by Jackie's 23 year report. The flowers are incredibly fragrant and bloom in January and February when not much else id going on.

I think I'm going to look for another spot to plant this one. I could use another, perhaps closer to our accustomed pathways.

Hey Jeri, what potting soil did you and Clay use for the rose shown above?

How I would love to put my roses in a pot like Jeri & Clay's!! I love the look of the glazed pots, also the plain terra cotta ones. But I finally gave in to the idea of plastic, which I don't hate as much as I thought I would, because it helps my plants survive the wicked afternoon sun they are in, and because it helps my poor back (especially the latter!). I find I need to move my pots around quite a lot, and I simply couldn't do it if I had heavier ones. But one should always heed Jeri's advice, when possible - the one time I did not, I lost a favorite rose!!!

Laura

Kristi, the best we've found, for OUR area, is Miracle Gro. Supersoil used to be good, but the company sold. Now, it smells like sewer sludge.

For others, NOT in our area, there may be other choices.

Jeri