Ken, can you tell me, if i wanted to help my clay soil , should i get compost or garden soil delivered? I have a composter but its a slow process. I would like to add it to get more worm action going. Thanks!

hey lily.. started a new post .. just for you.. and your clay peeps ... you are welcome ...

ken

Boy, Ken, can you ever oversimplify!!

Probably the best statement made in the above is: "you can use compost as a mulch". In fact, I would recommend it highly. It has the best array of nutrients of any organic mulch and has virtually no nutrient tie-up issues, which many wood-based mulches do. And it very handily accomplishes all the other things a mulch is supposed to do: if applied at an appropriate thickness, it DOES suppress weeds, it insulates the soil, it slows evaporation of and maintains soil moisture and aesthetically, it is much more pleasing in a perennial planting bed than chunky wood chip or bark mulches (and I won't even address rock mulches!!). If you have access to it, either your own or a bulk product, I'd recommend compost over any other organic mulches, especially for perennials.

Lilyfinch, if you intend on tilling the additives into the soil, go with the compost. If you are berming or just establishing raised beds or planting areas, the topsoil (or better yet, a garden planting mix) will be fine.

Ditto!!

I have used my own compost made from seaweed, used coffee grounds, banana peels and shredded leaves for the last 8 years. The soil we have is not that great, but having used compost as mulch the gardens now have soil which is dark and rich. It is also the only 'amendment' I use. :O)

I have used compost for mulch too. It was very effective.

In addition to what ken said, I'd add that compost can be used in a number of ways.

When building a new bed, it makes a great soil amendment. In this case, you mix it (as much as you can get your hands on) into the native soil with a tiller or a spade.

In existing beds, it makes a wonderful "top dressing". You sprinkle or spread 1/2 to 1 inch of compost right over the soil surface (over old mulch too, if you like) of the bed to within an inch or so of the plant crowns. This is like a vitamin tonic to your soil. Expect fabulous results!

It is the best thing you can add to planting holes of new plants. Just dig a couple of scoops of compost into the soil as you set out plants. They'll like it!

Mulches don't have to be wood products. Pinestraw and chopped leaves are great mulches. This is why so many of us mulch in the fall: that's when free mulch is all over the place. If you use leaves, pick them up with your bagged lawnmower. The mower will chop them as you pick them up. One caution: don't use leaves from an extremely weedy area. They'll be full of weed seeds. If you use them, compost them before spreading them onto your beds. (Guess how I know this? ....:)

I am often asked if I take my old mulch up each year before adding new. NO. Over the course of the year the mulch begins to compost into the soil. This process speeds up considerably if that mulch gets stirred around alot by the gardener. Everywhere it touches the soil it begins to break down. So, each fall, I lay several inches of fresh mulch right over the top of the old mulch, which has now become or is well on the way to becoming compost. Simple! :)

newbies need to start with over-simplification of concepts.. and when the muse hits.. they have a base from which to learn ...

overly complicated descriptions only befuddle and confuse newbies ....

compost can be a mulch or incorporated .. but mulch is not a compost that can be incorporated ...

ken