Yep, put them outside.........if...The big question is... how cold does it get where you are? Perhaps you could cover them for light frosts, but considering how hard you will have to prune them to even be coverable, is another concern mainly in terms of upkeep, and reduced avocado output. And that's only if we're talking light frosts. As for keeping them out of the ground, I'd begin by considering whether or not you can realistically grow these to be any larger in your house, before you make them grow too much more! What I would do if you chose to try growing them inside (or at least not in-ground), is to re-pot them in Al's gritty mix (do a search) or, if it's a bagged soil try either a palm and citrus mix or a cactus mix as they will provide better aeration and less sitting water (they drain well). Avocado trees dislike salts (particularly the mexican avocado varieties). All this means is that once you re-pot them, and begin to follow a regular watering schedule, each 3rd or 4th watering you will flood them with an extra gallon or two of water to leech away the salt that has built up. When you think to prune, only worry about your ceiling in your house. So only prune the top of the tree or the tall parts which are causing trouble. Basically the gist is only prune what you must for now. They don't want to be pruned at all. Leave the leaves that are merely yellowing or showing signs of salt burns. Good garden practice asks you remove any diseased or fungal-troubled leaves (the whole thing), so that disease cannot spread to other leaves. Use the appropriate spray for any disease or pest issues. The first thing is the roots though, get those in the right aerated mix and don't over water. Then maybe see what the leaves do. And treat if still needed. Happy roots = happy leaves (most of the time) Have fun! Should be worth it ! -Andrew (new here)

The problem with all of this is...reality bites. Vertical checking increases the surface area exposed to weathering. Most treated lumber comes with a warning that should be read because it doesn't guarantee longevity; for that reason choice of lumber type is extremely important. In my part of the world, cedar lasts longer (and clogs saws). Osage Orange is also excellent (which explains why it's so hard to find...heavily taken for fence posts and nowadays some folks don't like the fall fruit.) If you have any control over your wood, make sure to choose logs cut from the center of the free with no sapwood. Fewer knot holes is better although the 'knots' will out last the other wood, but by then, hopefully, the structure will be covered with roses. And finally...how you set the wood in the ground is a major deal breaker. In some areas, wood in the ground rots. In some areas, what works in well draining sand doesn't in clay in the next yard. In some other areas, wood in cement in the ground rots. This is another of those instances where local knowledge is a necessity.

Shadey: Ken and Dave are giving you excellent advice. We get a lot of questions from people worried about this or that little injury to a little tree, and almost all the time no human intervention is needed, and most often the intervention people want to try will only harm the tree. The only danger here is that the tree will form a double leader, but this happens a relatively small percentage of the time. And, what at first may look like a double leader forming, usually isn't. You need to give the tree some time--at least 3 years, and depending on how fast the tree is growing, probably longer. But, if after about 3 or 4 years, or after the tree has grown about 4 feet or so and you have two leaders of equal length with the tips close together, then cut one off. But if you have what looks like a double leader, but one side is growing at an angle away from the other, which is more erect, do nothing, or at least wait another year or two to be sure you really have a double leader. Usually one side of what seems like a double leader will begin growing away from the other and will become a side branch. Also, double leaders on open grown spruce are not always a problem and do not split apart. The branches growing from the base of each leader will cross the other, and graft to it, making a strong joining between the two that is very resistant to breakage. But having said that, a single leader is preferable, if only for aesthetic reasons. But I know of a number of spruce trees growing in the open with double leaders/trunks, and to me they are beautiful. Double leaders/trunks in forst grown spruce are a big problem--they will usually split apart sooner or later. --Spruce

Grow an Avocado Tree! There's nothing more fun than growing your own Avocado Tree! "How do I do it?" Open the avocado and remove the pit from the center. You can eat the fruit of the avocado, it's yummy and is full of nutrients!* Wash the avocado pit under cool running water, you don't need soap to clean it. With your fingers gently wipe away and remove any of the green fruit that might be on the pit. Rinse it well and then blot it dry with a paper towel. Carefully push three toothpicks into the thickest width of avocado, you want to push the toothpicks into the pit about a 1/2" deep. (It's okay if you push them in deeper or even a little less.) The toothpicks will help suspend the avocado pit in water and keep the top part of the pit in fresh air and the fat base of the pit under the surface of the water. Be careful pushing in the toothpicks, they have pointy ends and could hurt if they poke your hands, it's all right to ask a grown-up to help with this. Suspend the pit over a glass filled with water....the toothpicks will rest on the rim of the glass and hold the pit in place so it doesn't sink to the bottom. Always check the water level in the glass and see that the water is covering the fat base of the pit by about an inch depth. If the water is below that level you'll need to add some more. Slowly and carefully pour in more water from a small cup to avoid splashing. Place the glass in a bright windowsill. In about three to six weeks the top of the avocado pit will begin to split and a stem sprout will emerge from the top and roots will begin to grow at the base. When the stem grows to about five or six inches pinch out the top set of leaves. In another two or three weeks new leaves will sprout and there will be more roots. It's now time to plant the young avocado tree. Place enriched potting soil in a large flowerpot (maybe 8" to 10" across.) Fill the soil to about an inch from the top of the pot. Make a small depression in the center of the soil and place the pit, root-side down into the depression. Don't put it too deep...you want to have the upper half of the pit above the soil line. Add some more soil around the pit to fill in any air holes by the roots and then firm it into the soil by gently pushing the soil around the base of the pit. The tree's stem and leaves should be straight and pointing up (like a flagpole.) Give the soil a drink to water the pit. Water it generously so that the soil is thoroughly moist. Water the soil slowly and gently so that when it's poured in it doesn't gouge out holes in the soil. Keep your tree watered but don't let the soil be so moist that it ever looks like mud. How do I care for my avocado tree?" Keep your tree in a sunny window, the more sun it gets the bigger it will grow. Remember to give it frequent light waterings but don't let the soil get muddy. If the leaves turn yellow it means that the plant is getting too much watering, let the tree's soil dry out for a couple of days, then return to light waterings. When the stem grows six more inches pinch out the top two sets of leaves. This will encourage the plant to grow side shoots and more leaves, making it bushy. Each time the plant grows another six inches pinch out the two newest sets of leaves on top. "Can my avocado tree ever go outside?" Yes it can go outside in the summer. If your winters are cold ~ below 45 degrees (F) or 7 degrees (C) ~ you must bring your tree inside for the winter. Otherwise, if your winters are cool and mild, the tree may stay outdoors year round. "Will my tree ever grow fruit?" Sometimes they will begin setting fruit after they are three or four years old. It helps to have several avocado trees growing together to aid with pollination. "How tall will my avocado tree grow?" An avocado tree is a medium to large tall tree. It can grow between 20 and 40 feet tall. With pruning it can be kept at a much shorter height. *Avocado Nutrition Facts* Avocados contain just 5 grams of fat per serving. Avocados contain NO cholesterol and NO sodium. Avocados contain 60% more potassium per ounce than bananas! Avocados are high in fiber, vitamin B6, vitamin C, vitamin E, potassium and folate. ========================================================= Enjoy sprouting your avocado pit and growing your tree!