EARWIGS. Those are not legs but pincers. They feed mostly at night and hide away in cracks and garden debris in the day time. First clean up any places where they can take cover in the day time. Next take a plastic water or pop bottle. Remove the lid and cut the top off of the bottle where it straightens out. I like to cut the bottle down a bit too, but leave room for them to get past the funnel. Mix up an earwig solution--recipe to follow. Put the solution in the bottle and invert the top into the bottle so it looks like a funnel inside the bottle and tape it on. Then bury it in the ground near your sunflowers so there is only a bit sticking out. The earwigs crawl down the funnel looking for a place to hide and maybe eat because of the bait and can't get out because of the oil, the salt in the soy sauce kills them too. Some also use yogurt cups but you must have a lid to keep the rain out and some way for them to get in. Recipe--equal parts of molasses, cooking oil, and soy sauce. It may take a few days for it to work because it works better when it's rancid. Some use the oil from tuna or sardines. Check your traps every few days and empty them. Bugs tend to keep away if they scent their own kind dead.

I grow Schick hybrids, most are not as tall as that one, and darker green, though the spines and ribs seem the same, and the Schick hybrids do have all of the species in them that is mentioned above, including Rebutia. Well not quiet all of them. And they can be figured out by the flower, if you have the flower chart in color to do so. Keep your labels make duplicate copies of them, and put one in the bottom of the pot. Not all of them look alike, some hardly have any spines, and others have long ones, Bob Schick used to tell them apart by looking at them. Sorry for such a long post, Echinopsis are grown just like any other cactus and need the same care, for flowering give them a low 0-20-10 fertilizer approx. The middle number must be higher, the first number very low. No water in the Winter, they must have the chill and dormant periods to flower. They are extremely hardy, will flower 6 mo. at least of the year from the end of April to the end of Sept. depending on you climate, light where you grow them, feeding. May open 4 nights depending on light. Norma

From my experience with the 30 foot tall camphor in my yard: They do sprout up from the roots as well as from seed. They are extremely hard to dig out because the roots are so tough, unlike the above ground portion. You really have to watch closely and nix any that sprout up from roots in undesirable locations. The seeds that sprout are easy to deal with (round-up or pull). My experience with killing a camphor: #1 cut down tree and cut all visible roots with chain saw #2 drill holes and fill with stump killer #3 spray Round-up on the sprouts coming from the stump #4 liberally cover the stump with undiluted Round-up, brush killer version #5 give up on all that and bury the stump in rock salt #5 is the only thing that works.

We have 2 of these climbing our backyard fence. It is definitely porcelain vine. They will die back and look completely dead in winter but will come back in spring. Word of warning: they will get BIG! And they will seed like crazy, but the seedlings are easy to pull up. Once yours mature, they get a very pretty berry on them in late summer, blue and purple and turquoise. I love these vines, love the variegation and the grape-like look of the leaves.