I have a 'Baobob' about 4ft. Old leaf joints nearer the soil line are just beginning to branch out. It never occurred to me to grow Baobob bonsai as the leaves are broad and thin (common deciduous characteristic, but not a rule of course) I'm very new to growing bonsai, but I do grow the plants you mentioned. You should have a great time with the Aeonium obesum(sp?) Desert Rose. That would make a most excellent bonsai I would think. Remember they don't thrive in saturated conditions. I've had better luck keeping the soil rather dry with A LOT of light. They really live for the stuff. growing some pachypodium lamerri & soon to have P.geayi(sp?). Again, very easy to care for. Mine typically drop the crown of leaves when the temp drops below 45(F). Be sure to give this one ample light also and a bit on the dry side. If it begins to droop a bit, give it a good flush and it'll perk right back up.

i am not an expert but i have tried to cold stratify many times with mixed success . when the roots begin to sprout the plant is vulnerable to damage and should be carefully planted in soil.after that keeping it cold may slow its growth so as to delay it till you can safely raise it outdoors. if leaves appear it must have sun. the trick to all this is timing so your seed sprouts when it is time to place it where it will grow. so much depends on the type of plant and the zone and what you plan to do with the plant.i would plant this apple in a small pot and keep it cold till leaves appear thenkeep it in the sunnyest window till you r last hard freeze has pased apple leaves can probably survive a lite frost .you might not know that while many fruits will grow true to the parent plant apple seeds are notorious for growing into different kinds of apples than what they came from

Key lime is fairly easy from seed, and will have a short juvenility period, as citrus go, so you'll get fruit in just a few years (2 is possible; 3 is likely). They are highly susceptible to foot rot, caused by Phytophthora species, as are all seed-grown citrus (or cutting grown -- anything not on a resistant rootstock). So the way you transplant them and water them will be important. When you transplant, set them a bit higher in the soil than they originally were, so that you can see a root or two above the surface of the soil when you're done. For watering (this is wise for all citrus, but especially important for young seedlings) -- water them thoroughly when you do water, but then let the surface of the soil dry out before watering again. Not to the point of drying out the whole pot and severely wilting the plant, but the surface should be definitely dry. As for fertilizer -- much like any similar-size houseplant. In our college greenhouses, we fertilize with a liquid (20-10-20 or similar) at 1 Tbsp per gallon, every week or two, depending on how many times we're watering in between. And when we water, we do so until there is some leachate water that comes out the bottom of the pot. Once the plant grows to a size that makes you think the root system has filled the pot, you can go to whatever system you normally use for your potted citrus. Actually, you could probably do that right away. Malcolm Manners John and Ruth Tyndall Professor of Citrus Science Florida Southern College Lakeland

Nice...I put mine in a perlite/cactus soil mix into 4"-6" plastic pots at that stage. If the seed covers are partially off and the cotyledons are green, I mist them with water just enough to moisten the seed husks, and gently remove them with tweezers...veeeery carefully. Then I sparingly spray their contaners with a dilute solution of superthrive, and put them iin a sunny window. I heard on another forum that the seedlings showing a reddish tint to their stems and or leaves end up being the cultivars with the best chance of being exeptional plants, don't know if it's true or not, but those are the ones I transplant, first.