I think of a hedgerow as being relatively unpruned, or at least not sheared. Is that what you are planning? Do you have a planned width that your hedge will take up, or do you have quite a bit of room so that width is less important? Also to help with plant suggestions, what is the purpose for your hedge? Do you want to block a view or edge a drive or simply make the chain link a bit less obvious or are you looking for something dense enough to offer privacy either in the warm seasons or year round or . . . ? I personally like mixed hedges, and tend to have more than two types of shrub in them, though each kind of plant I have is repeated several times. I like having something blooming or fruiting most of the time and also like to have variety in heights and foliage texture. Depending on your soil pH, blueberry bushes (which need acid soil) might be a good substitute for the burning bush. They have nice red autumn foliage similar to the burning bush, with the added bonus of white spring flowers, the berries for you or the birds or both, and some varieties have green or red-orange winter twigs. Another possibility for your hedgerow might be some of the shrubby dogwoods. They are available with variegated or gold foliage (as well as green) and most have either red, gold or something in between in color for winter twigs. They also produce berries for the birds. Mock orange is pretty for a couple of weeks in spring and then is just green, rather like the forsythia. There are a whole range of viburnums to choose from as esh ga suggested. I usually mix in some evergreens so that there is some green in winter, not simply twigs. If the fence is yours, you could consider growing vines on it, such as clematis. A resource that might give you some good ideas is "Dirr's Hardy Trees and Shrubs." Lots of photos as well as descriptions. If there is an arboretum or a college near you, that will give you an opportunity to see various shrubs that grow in your area as well.

You might spend some time this summer looking at different bushes and shrubs to get ideas. Read labels, look at plantings you like, see if you can tell what plants are. Perhaps smaller, upright style bushes would mix for better hedge than some of the larger ones. Smaller to medium sizes, with a larger plant or small tree on corners for anchor, could be attractive. Fruit or dwarf corner trees flower and could provide snacks during summer! I look at lilacs, forsythia, larger bushes as more a windbreak, good sized hedge. They need some attention to shape well, get good flowering. Kind of too big for my vegtables, they would shade it out. Lesser bushes, trimmed a bit now and then, could be very attractive. Bridalwreath Spirea with white flowers, has flowing branches, shrub rosebushes, Althea, Fothergilla, Viburnums, Hydrangeas, Elderberry, Blueberry come to mind for semi-medium sizes 4-7ft. Dwarf Fothergilla, Japanese Spirea, Beautyberry, Sweetspire, Potentilla in colors, Duetzia, Fairy roses (thorny but bloom most of the summer!) could be among the small shrub/bushes used for smaller edging, under 4ft. These are just group bush names, with many varieties to choose from. Lots of flowers at different seasonal times, texture from leaf shapes. Great fall color, lots of bird berries if you like birds. There are many other bushes in those sizes, both open shaped, upright, full or flowing branch shapes. The evergreens could be corners or planted at each path, both sides, to aid in tying hedges together. I like evergreens, just want something more than a green spot. I probably would not want a solid wall of only green for my hedge. The yellow tipped Cypress, all sizes, are colorful year-round. A third idea might be to check into grasses. You could do a tall outside layer, with shorter descending grass layers to the vegtables. It could be very visual, colorful,but maybe not as fully screening as bushes. Grasses would need shearing every spring, weed whacker works well. Grass is tough, has a flowing look, moving in wind. Plants seem to stay put, clump pretty well, not spreading out of control. I don't know what kind of animals you might need to deal with. Grass won't stop much. Bushes probably won't do much to stop larger animals either or dogs. If deer are a problem, you may have to net bushes, some people say that helps. Yews are poison for horses, not sure about cattle, sheep or goats. Early fall is a good time to plant, often can find plants on sale. Take some pictures of project for us when you decide on the final plan. Sounds like fun!

Nandina makes a decent hedge. You keep it at a manageable height and keep it looking fresh by getting in there once a year and selectively removing the oldest, tallest stems. It can reach the eves of a 1 story house eventually. Disadvantages is that It spreads by rhizomes so you have to keep it in bounds root-wise, and if you don't remove the old tall stems you get a bare base and a tall plant arching outwards. Eventually kind of scraggly. With yearly maintenance it can stay pretty. Ignored it can get pretty sad and taller than 4'. I like Nandina 'Firepower', though it's not going to get 4', more like 2'. It's really well behaved and very shrubby/pretty, doesn't spread like Gulfstream. Red fountain grass should be cut to the ground once a year in late winter as new growth appears, to keep it looking good, not sheared into a bottle brush shape. It's a grass and needs to be refreshed. So you temporarily lose your hedge every year for a month or two. Is that going to work? What about common myrtle, which shears into a really pretty hedge and can be kept at about any size. Its slow growing so one shear a year is fine, and can live on winter rain alone, provided we get some winter rain. The foliage has a beautiful sweet fragrance and the foliage is a deep, dark green year round. It's also very tough and long-lived. Boxwood does pretty good considering you are so near the coast. Inland it looks poorly in heat and in winter cold. These would be examples of standard easily available plants for reliable performance, rather than a trendy solution. Avoid Euonymous because it needs more water to look good and protection from scale and spider mites. It looks great in a pot at the nursery but commonly not too good in your yard a couple of years later. Jade plant believe it or not makes a decent hedge and needs little water, but I'm not a jade plant fan myself.

I'm looking at the photo, and I don't see any shade. Sasanquas will tolerate sun without the leaf discoloration that japonicas often get in sunny spots. If a shade tree is planned for the yard, then I would think any type of camellia should do fine. Taylor's Perfection may tolerate a sunny location if your climate is fairly humid- your nursery contact could tell you how much shade it needs in your area. I didn't think TP was all that exciting from looking at photos, but when I saw it in person, I really liked the bloom shape- I can see why you like it! Sasanquas have a shorter bloom time than japonicas. They will bloom like crazy for several weeks, and the rest of the year are very attractive evergreen shrubs with smaller leves than japonicas. I have seen long hedges of sasanquas trimmed to the same general size/shape, and the look is dense, green and leafy- in a word, hedge-like. To me, japonicas used as hedges don't provide the same uniform appearance simply because their leaves are bigger. Some will do a better job of being hedge-like than others, though, depending on their habit (dense being hedgier than an open habit). If you're planning to use hedge-clippers, small-leaved sasanqua-type camellias look much better, IMO. Whatever type you choose, remember to prune just after plants bloom, or you risk losing the next year's flowers. If it were me, I would go with two different cultivars, and alternate them, so that you have some variety, but a pattern making things more formal. You could choose a fall-bloomer and alternate with a spring bloomer such as TP... Or find a variety that complements TP and blooms at the same time. Since the general recommendation is to plant camellias about 6 feet apart for a hedge, 27 feet will allow 5-6 plants. Most camellias will get to a small tree size eventually if left alone- sasanquas grow more quickly than japonicas- but it will take any variety some time to get to 8-feet, and all camellias take pruning back pretty well. If you decide that TP isn't going to tolerate your sunny site, consider using some sasanqua-type camellias. Varieties I like include 'Leslie Ann', 'Early Pearly', 'Stars'n'Stripes', Navajo', 'Kanjiro', 'Jean May' and 'Snow Flurry'. If you prefer the look/ blooming season of japonicas, camellias with red blooms are usually considered more sun-tolerant than those with lighter colored flowers. And higher humidity does seem to make it easier to grow japonicas in sunny spots... Good luck!