An automated sprinkler system? How long is it on for? Given that information, I'd guess the issue was lack of water. Euonymus alatus often responds to dry soil conditions with a browning or drying of the foliage. Typically, automated watering systems are not set or programmed for the best growth of the plants they are tending. Coming on daily or even twice a day for a few minutes at a time simply does not deliver the volume of water most plants need nor deeply enough to be effective. It will always be better to water less often but for a longer period of time so that the water penetrates deeply down to at least the base of the rootball. Depending on the situation, that might be once or twice a week for 20-30 minutes. Personally, I think most automated watering systems are a huge waste of money and natural resources for anything other than lawns. They do not deliver the water efficiently, they are rarely programmed properly and they waste huge amounts of water to evaporation and/or run-off. Using a low emission system like a drip or soaker hose is a much better choice.

can we see pix ... its been a long time ... do you fert??? ... ferting things that dont need it.. can cause weird issues... just guessing here ... and.. with scald ... i swear the damage can be years old.. before it SHOWS .... so this MIGHT be a transplant issue .. since your garden isnt that old .... and you tend to favor large transplants. if i recall .... on a shrub.. one would expect.. even bare branches.. to shade the trunk from winter sun .... just enough to avoid such ... so we would then reject that theory.. and have to dream up others ... as a shrub.. you would do rejuventation pruning on these.. over the years.. and damaged parts.. are removed ... its an intrigue.. but not something i would lose sleep on .. nor worry about.. and i know you are a worrier ... so try not to ken

Yeah, but it doesn't have the right character for that. I have a customer who has an old, open one that hangs over the driveway. It is sprouting at the base and practically shouting to have the old, bulging top cut away and replaced by the basal growths, which look much better. They are keeping the old top instead. Completely out of scale and intrusive. As mentioned, you can cut an overlarge one off near the ground and get a new, big top only few to several years later--unless the plant is in poor condition. Or try one of the newer, supposedly dwarfer selections. I've seen 'Fireball' at one or two local places already, so these types are making it through the pipeline out to us.

The copper fungicide is the best, since copper is a necessary micronutrient for palsm and it helps them to recover from a cold or in your case cool winters. The other fungicide I was going to recomment to you is Triple Action 20 by Consan. I haven't used it in a while since I have gone all organic with everything, and I have lost the part of the instructions that tell how to use it with palms. I think I mixed .5 ounce of the fungicide in a gallon of water and then sprayed it on with a simple handheld spray bottle. I am not familiar with daconil, so you might want to contact your local County Extension Office and talk to the Horticulturist about using it with your palms. As far as how many times to treat your palms, I would use it once and then wait a week or two and see if it stops or slows down the leaf spotting. If not, then use it again, then stop, because with fungicide, it is possible to apply too much. John P.S. Check out my latest reply to your other post here on Garden Web. I think you and other California COCO NUTS (pun intended, LOL) will find it interesting about some palms possibly producing coconuts as far north as Puerto Penasco along the northernmost part of the Gulf Of California!