Some triple superphosphate.

A handful of triple super phosphate, a cup of Biosol, micro-nutrient powder and three aspirin.

I don't have moles/voles/gophers or other critters, but if you do, then the way to protect your roses is not dryer sheets. To protect against burrowing critters do this -- poke a whole bunch of holes in the nursery can that the rose came in that are (1) big enough for the roots to get out, and (2) small enough that the burrowers cannot get in and (3) at all levels in the sides of the pot -- not just at the bottom. Now plant the rose and the can. Then you will have at least the roots that are inside the can even if you do have burrowing pests in the vicinity, which is usually enough for the rose to survive. And as the rose gets bigger, it has no problem getting through the holes you've now put in the nursery pot. Or if you are really ambitious, you can line the hole with hardware wire cloth in a gauge that is thick enough it will not rot away, but that seems like a real pain to me.

Kathy

Sometimes if I have some bonemeal or superphosphate around handy, I put some in the hole, but usually nothing at all. However, I do add some nice organics to the soil mix in the hole, especially about a foot down where I usually encounter a fairly heavy layer of clay soil. If my plants are healthy and I plan to feed them at fairly regular intervals, I don't really worry much about the hole itself.

Kate

Just native soil. I do not believe in using high phosphate
fertilizers.

For garden planted roses, I always use a soil mix I prepare myself that consists of 1/2 native soil-(mine is very good), mixed with garden bush/shrub soil, spagnum peat moss, perlite, rose bed amendment bag stuff, some bone meal and a cup of alfalfa based pellet fertilizer made locally in Kansas City.
I use the same mix for container roses but usually with no native soil, just the garden tree/shrub soil I get in bags at the big box stores.
John

So how do you know when you have moles? Then I wonder if the methods suggested here would work. Seems like the small roots that need protection would be right there where the moles could get them. Maybe the best protection is to ignore the moles and expect the plant to compensate and grow more roots?

Jim, I have Moles..they leave little hills of dirt. They are harmless..they do not eat roots, they eat bugs. However, as people have told me..the tunnels they dig make a freeway for Voles and other animals that can eat roots. Lucky for me we do not have Gophers in this area at all. Since I have a large yard and a green belt behind my house..I am resentful they have a tunnel at the bottom of my raised planter..

Seems like I read something in here last year about dryer sheets in the hole..

The rose. :)

Otherwise, about 1/2 native soil, 25% composted cow or sheep manure and 25% good quality triple mix.

I add some composted steer manure that you can purchase in 40# bags.

About 50% compost, 50% garden soil. Half a handful of super phos. around the bottom of the hole. I don't worry about about the phosphorus as it's buried deep, I bury my bud unions about 6" deep so it is quite far down and not really any chance of "runoff". Mulch with the most nutritious mulch I can get my hands on, which would be shredded leaves, leaf mold, or mostly-done compost.

I used to go through all kinds of contortions when I planted a rose...or anything else for that matter. All sorts of expensive composts and additives got mixed in the planting hole. Sometimes they did great and sometimes they didn't. Then I read a report put out by the University of Florida that said that plants adjust best when just planted in the native soil.

I've been planting new roses and camellias and I quit ammending the planting hole. I work the soil up nicely, water them well, and lovingly plant them. I add the compost, etc. on top of the soil, as nature would. I've noticed over the years that earth worms are more than willing to bring the good stuff down to where the roots are. I'm having great results with a LOT less work. They seem to be adjusting to their new home much quicker. And it's less expensive, too.

I've also switched to pine needles as mulch rather than pine bark, and have much less of a weed issue in my beds. Fortunately, bales of pine needles are harvested in my area, so the price is reasonable.

Sandy

Thanks guys. Sandy, I was at a rose nursery here today..and he said the same thing!

Have fun with your roses....it's very rewarding to grow them. As long as they receive periodic attention they'll do great.

Sandy

Sandy, that's exactly what I've been finding out too. Last spring I planted a couple of roses in my nicely "prepared" holes, which had been amended with native soil, bagged manure, peatmoss, bonemeal, greensand, and the roses died! So, I shoveled those out and replanted two more without amending anything at all. Do you know, the two roses grew like gangbusters, without any amendments at all! I think they can't handle all that stuff we lovely throw in the holes. From now on I'll be planting without amending, and maybe just like you placing the amendments on top instead.

I do not believe in using ammendments in the planting hole or using high phosphate fertilizers. Our soil test revealed things are just fine with our native soil. I also top-dress.

I bought a rose mix yesterday at the feed store and lightened it up with some peat moss I had..a teeny bit a granular fertilizer..we will see how it works

After adding ammendments to a planting hole, one should get a good soil test done, checking for ph level and nutrient content before planting.
If one has hard clay soil, the ammended soil will drain well, but, the sides and bottom of the planting hole which contain hard clay will still not drain well. Just like planting in a container without good drainage.
Also, sometimes plant roots stay in the ammended planting soil and do not venture out into the native soil.

I always add organics to my planting holes. I think it is my one chance to add to the soil. I bury the bud union 6" below ground so the hole is quite large. Manure, alfalfa, compost, that kind of stuff. Seems to work well for me.

Valerie