Yes, with Neptunes fish fertilizer at 1/2 to 1 tablespoon per gallon as the first set of true leaves emerge and around every other watering after that. I use Pro-Mix to start seedlings and it contains very few nutrients.

Jon

I feed them and I talk to them. ;)

Glad someone asked this question in new thread.

I'd asked on another thread and only response I saw was someone didn't see the need to feed seedlings.

To each their own but I'd like to get the best start from whatever sprouts for me since it's my first time out.

I have an unopened bottle of Bonide fish emulsion from last year. The label has NPK ratio of "2-4-.05" and I was wondering if I should get a new bottle with the FAQ recommended ratio of "2-4-2" to supply more potassium?

I can always use the bottle I have for other things during the season if it isn't sufficient for feeding seedlings which I assume need a good balanced nutritional start the most.

Does fish emulsion remain effective unopened in bottle and does storage at low temperature (unheated garage) adversely effect it at all?

Thanks in advance if you can help me out with this. :)

"response I saw was someone didn't see the need to feed seedlings", This might work if the mix you were using contained enough nutrients for the seedling but usually soiless mixes do not. Some people use compost for seed starting and that might work though I've never tried.
I like Pro-mix because it's inexpensive, consistent, light and airy, and perfect for holding the correct amount of moisture for most seedlings.
As for the Bonide fish emulsion; buy a bottle of liquid seaweed fertilizer with a 0-0-1 content (if available in your area) or similar and mix the two when you feed.

I left a 1/2 gallon of Neptune's in the garage last year and it froze during the winter but seems to be working just fine.

newbie_in_nj; remember two very important things when growing seedlings; 1)do not over-water. Allow the soil to almost completely dry out before watering again. 2)Provide plenty of light. T12 Florescent bulbs in 4ft fixtures work well no more than 1 inch from the plants.

Jon

Thanks very much, Jon!

As luck would have it, I have half a bottle of Neptune's Harvest liquid seaweed fert from last year. Used it for foliar spray on plants after reading it was good boost for them. I probably do more harm than good with trying to baby the plants and mixing techniques I read about!

I used ProMix last year for starting annual seeds outside and I really liked it. Stores don't carry it around here so I got MiracleGro soilless germinating mix which is full of sticks... never again. Even the generic Agway brand was better but I added more Perlite since there wasn't much in it. Had about 1/4 ProMix compressed bale left which was well sealed up in garage and used that for "6-8 week" sowing tonight.

On the watering...I see conflicting advice: bottom water to avoid damping off which really soaks little cells OR misting tops which seems like it would increase the risk of damping off and not necessarily get to roots.

I have a few cell flats I took off heat mat at first sign of germination and close under 4' T12 lights. Put the next batch on heat mat tonight. I cut up the cell flats I got so I could move each variety off heat as soon as first sprout showed.

Kept reading they'd dry out very quickly once uncovered & under lights but they still feel moist a couple days after bottom watering. Is that the way it works? Won't count on it, though, and will keep checking every day to make sure about moisture.

Thank you very much for the help, Jon. It's nerve wracking to germinate seeds inside for the first time. I have failure anxiety...LOL.

Leslie

I haven't used any ferts yet, I've used a bit of epsom diluted, some rich earth, and some myco innoculation several times when watering. I have some espoma for transplants that I'm going to give at 1/4 strength next watering.

I've noticed that bottom watering doesn't seem to get them very damp. I read 10-15 minutes soaking in a tray. I give them about a half hour and also mist the top. I stick my pinky in the drainage holes to check for dampness as the top is bone dry by the next day. I've been watering about every 4-5 days. I'm tempted to do it more often, but it's become so much work to pull 80+ cups off the shelf and put them back that it's a little easier to neglect them.

rj_hythloday, I'm going to be potting up to 16 oz. cups so I know what you're talking about moving them all to water. That's what I used last year but tightly taped 6-8 cups in bunches together to I could lift them as unit to bottom water.

I guess the top being bone dry may not matter as long as moisture is getting up to the developing root zone.

At least that's what I'm going to tell myself but it's hard to resist that little misting bottle when they feel dry on top.

I read about the myco innoculants too late to order some online and get it while sprouts are still smallish. The online vendors are experiencing backlogs of a couple weeks at this time when I call to check on delivery. Wish someone sold those kinds of things locally cause shipping charges add up.

Good luck with your sprouts!

I never do misting- leaves usually do not need it and root system is not going benefit from it either. Keeping leaves wet is recipe for fungal disease.
About fertilizing. I do not seems find it is easy to over fertilize them. I have used full strength of 10-10-10 water soluble stuff/ whatever is on sale/ and it does remarkably well, even if I use more of it. Let say miracle grow states use 10 drops every other feeding and I use every feeding and seedlings look green and healthy. So I do not bother much with that science anymore.
I do bottom watering only and let them soak up water. I figured out which watering can is enough for my containers to get good amount without over soaking issues and do that.
Having done that for few years I know by feel what looks right. Give your seedlings plenty of light and air and you should be fine with everything else.

For my seedings I make a mix as follows:

--- one portion good fluffy sifted garden soil
--- one portion MG peat moss
--- One potion (little less) pearlite

This way there no need to feed them early on. Because, the garden soil and MG peat moss already have food and nutrient.

after getting several true leaves I feed them very very lightly. Later on, if they appear yellowish, that would indicate to me that they need food (especially nitrogen)

Most bigger seeds got enough nutients stored in the seed. So in the beginning they do not need any oyher food for a while. Just like the chicks that get the yellow and white in the chicken's egg and grow and hatch. Then they need food.

What about Miracle Grow? 1/2 teaspoon per 2 quarts. I read somewhere that works?

This way there no need to feed them early on. Because, the garden soil and MG peat moss already have food and nutrient.

I agree. Not to mention, the seed leaves contain nutrients as well. They're full of the starches and minerals needed to keep the plant going not only until it can make true leaves aboveground, but also to get its roots established enough to gather what it needs below ground.

I mix a small amount of time-release fertilizer pellets into my potting mix when I make it (generally a mixture of peat and composted manure, but sometimes with vermiculite, perlite, or sand, depending on the type of plant). That way the nutrient concentration slowly increases as the plant ages and its needs increase, but you never have to worry about over-fertilizing (which, IMHO, is worse than under-fertilizing).