O.k. Mindy...got ahold of him. Here's what he said: The best reference book would be...the one I haven't written yet. Kevin may have a head start. I think Dirr has a CD out specifically about viburnums, at $35.00 or so. I don't know of a specific book about viburnums that will have everything anyone wants. This person (I assume you mean over at GW) is welcome to send me an email; I think anyone still can via the GW route. If she needed some textbook names, I'd say: Dirr's Manual, 5th edition -- lots of descriptions and opinions, no color pictures Dirr's Hardy Trees and Shrubs -- lots of pictures, less text, not exhaustive Viburnums (Lloyd Kenyon) -- a small British text that I don't think is available in the US; very good species descriptions, and includes some good pictures but few if any named clones included. This fellow created/owns the National Collection in England. My version of Heaven, if I ever get back across the pond... Plants That Merit Attention: Vol. II Shrubs -- good pictures and information, not exhaustive You've caught me at a disadvantage, oh Wild Raisin. I'm at work and away from my library, so I'm writing these down from memory. This will at least be a start. Dirr and Cappiello, Dirr and Shadow, Shadow and Cappiello...all of them keep saying they are going to do a viburnum text. Then they get to fooling around and do one on hydrangeas first, then one on dogwoods. What a waste of paper! What they need is for me to help them focus. Don't think I won't keep bringing it up...I can be pestiferous when I want to. Hope this helps. And if you do have a speicific question for him, find his my page and send him a message that way. Terry

Prairiegirl, you are feeling sleepy... you are at your computer... get your new Viburnum Book by Dirr... open it... close your eyes and count backwards from 10 to 1... you are becoming more sleepy... 3...2...1 you are now writing my name in the Jacket Cover... you feel wonderful... incredible... You are now writing down my address from email 'Confidential'... you still feel incredible... wonderful... you see Viburnums in your thoughts dancing like the leaves on an Autumn Breeze. SNAP! Please Return My Book, Thank you, Dax

Yeah Dave is right, cold damage causes cellular death which allows decay organisms to start growing. That's what you're seeing. Looks like the plants themselves will recover. Just let them be, no fertilizer, they don't need your "help". There was a huge Chindo at the University of Delaware that was cut back to a thick trunk after the prior winter...now all the regrowth is dead. I wonder if it will manage one last recovery... I wonder how the big ones in the Enid Haupt garden off the mall are doing.

I don't see anything "eating" the leaves in the photo above. And I agree with ken that whatever is present is extremely minor AFA damage is concerned and nothing that requires any treatment. And I would also agree that for most plant issues, now - the beginning of fall - is not the time to treat. These plants are about to start shutting down for the season and will be soon entering dormancy and dropping all their leaves. Should similar issue develop next spring, that would be when (or even if) you should consider some sort of treatment. The spotting on the hydrangea is most likely Cercospora leaf spot, a late season fungal issue that is almost entirely cosmetic in nature. It is caused by high humidity and overhead watering. Just gather up all the leaves when they fall and dispose of them. I also agree with ken that the boxwood would be the only plant I might be concerned about. Boxwood is prone to a very debilitating blight that cannot be controlled and removal is suggested. But we would need to see to confirm that was the issue before you take that drastic step. It is sometimes difficult for new gardeners to accept but perfection in the garden - pristine, unblemished foliage, no insects, no leaf scorch or drying - is contrary to nature. There will always be issues in any garden. It is only through experience or research that you will begin to recognize what is serious and should be treated and what can be safely overlooked or ignored. You'll get there :-))