I loved reading this too! As a result of reading these tips and techniques years ago, we always make a 'filter box' from a plastic file folder type container with a handle lid, we've also used shorter ones depending on the pump size. I like for the box to be twice the size or better than the pump. I use hubby's hole saw attachment for the drill to create many holes all over the container, leaving the bottom and a couple of inches of the bottom sides undrilled. I buy the nylon netting in the fabric department at Walmart for maybe 79 cents a yard and wad that up in the bottom, place the pump inside and route your power cable and pump output through the holes in the top. Stuff another wad of the nylon netting over the top and close the box. Sink it into the pond and finish your plumbing. I place a pot of iris or a decorative rock on top to disguise the filter. I do the whole thing for $10 or $15. I do leave the foam filter in place to prevent the netting being sucked into the intake. If you have fish, I highly advise rinsing all of the materials (plastic box and netting) just to be safe.

A filter is the easiest and most effective way to keep the pond clear. Floating or stem plants will help but fish do best with a filter especially if it is more than a couple. If you cover the water with floating plants than the water should stay relatively clear and on the good side you do not really see the water that way. once you get a filter going the water should start to clear fairly quickly, couple weeks. If there are no fish or plants than dosing with an algicide will get rid of it for a while, but only if there are no fish plants and read the label to ensure that critters passing thru that take a drink won't be hurt

Algae spores are carried by wind, bugs, birds, etc. and so you will get algae in the new pond no matter what you do. If your filters are dirty, by all means clean them out and move them to the new pond. Use the old pond water so as to avoid killing the beneficial bacteria. If possible, keep some of the old filter media in some non-stagnant water to ensure you keep a lot of the good bacteria alive and then move to new pond when pumps are running.

Craig, Thanks for the reply. all my goldfish died last winter :( > My pond is 3000 - 3500 gallon 20 x 12 foot oval pond 2.5 inches deep. I never had to use anything over the winter. no cover, deicer, aerator - nothing. every year the fish were still alive and happy. Then last years Im still searching for the best reliable deicer, pond breather and or livestock tank heater etc. i can buy for total of $250 -300. This year, i spent the last 3-weekends building a 20 ft x 14 ft wood frame over the pond with 2x4 and 2x2. I then raised it 20âÂÂâ high using 2 x4. I bought some hanging brackets for some of the 2x4 for additional support. I created 2 (for now T expanding gutter vents with 45 degree 4â wide ends to add more ventilation to pond. They are supported with 2â pvc pipes hammered into the ground (NOT YET IN GROUND ) I only have a net over the pond right now. I will cover with plastic and tarp. I saw home depot has large styrofoam sheets for about $11 which i am going to try to place between plastic with a garden tarp cover over part of the frame at night / heavy snow - frigid temps. when it is sunny out i ll just keep the plastic on to try to create the greenhouse effect. BTW I absolutely loved the pondexpert covers but they were over my budget as i need to still buy a deicer, stock tank heater, pond breather / aerator. My dad has several of thees steel pipes already but they are really heavy that i feared they would collapse if i alone installed them without concrete or something similar. iâÂÂm sorry to hear you experienced the winter pond deicer problems as well. did you go with the pondexpert cover?⦠Sam ..