It's true. The fruit will be of variable quality and the seeds won't be true to type they will be hybrids. If you are going to plant self pollinating use only self pollinating of the same hybrid type. If you aren't using self pollinating then you will need different types to cross pollinate. In this case, people usually pick a type of persimmon because they like it's taste and so a similar tasting persimmon that ripens earlier or later than your favorite as the cross pollinator makes sense. In my case I was recommended, if I remember right, a Yates or a Prok, by this nursery: http://www.nolinnursery.com/Persimon.htm He is a Ag graduate from UK with many years of experience. So if I was like you I and wanted two trees I'd buy 2 Yates or 2 Proks. You should buy 1 or 2 or the same variety if they are self pollinating. I'm only buying one so I don't have that problem. I have a Black Gum (aka Black Tupelo) in my yard already and it's you've seen one you know they are closely related to persimmons. I'm not sure it they can 'cross pollinate' persimmons like donkeys & horse can cross breed though. Here is a link that might be useful: Nolin Nursery Persimmons This post was edited by AgroCoders on Sun, Jun 8, 14 at 3:09

Adella, Within the Cucurbitaceae family, there are several species. It is within the species that different varieties might cross, but crossing between the species is very rare. Regardless, any cross-pollination that occurred would not affect this year's fruit. If cross-pollination did occur and you saved seed from the cross-pollinated variety, then when you plant and grow out that seed you might (or might not) have crossed veggies. I think often cross-pollination is blamed for 'weird fruit' when what people are seeing is weird fruit for other reasons, like cucumber mosaic virus, for example. So, you can plant your watermelon anywhere you want and, assuming you had good, uncrossed seed to begin with, you'll get the expected fruit of that variety. (Unless you've got a variety with a relatively short DTM, though, you're looking at the possibility of not getting melon before the first fall frost, especially if there is an early first frost.) Watermelon is Citrullus (species) lanatus (genus) as is citron melon, so different watermelon varieties and citron melon varieties could cross with one another, but you wouldn't see the results of that cross unless you saved seed from this year's fruits and planted that seed in a future year. This melons only cross with eavh other and not the other species. Melons belong to Cucumis (genus) melo (species) and all members of C. melo have the potential to cross-pollinate with one another but not with members of the other species found in the Cucumis family. Again, though, you wouldn't get weird fruit this year. You might get it next year if you save and plant seed from crossed fruit from this year's crossed fruit, if any of them cross. The C. melo family include true cantaloupes, muskmelons (generally erroneously referred to as cantaloupes in the USA), honeydew, casaba, vine peach, Asian pickling cucumber, Armenian cucumber (snake melons) and pocket melons. Cucumis sativas is the cucumber species. All members of cucumis sativas have the potential to cross with one another, but not with C. melo (melons as described above) or Citrullus lanatus (watermelons). See a pattern here? Some pumpkins and squashes within the six species (C. moschata, C. pepo, C. mixta, C. agyrosperm, C. ficifolia, and C. foetidissima)found in the genus Cucurbita will cross with one another, but there again, it is only an issue if you're saving and replanting seed. They won't cross with cucumbers, melons, or watermelons. Within the genus Cucurbita, varieties within each of the six species cross easily with each other, but crosses between the various species are very rare to almost non-existent. As with all the others, you'd see results of the crossing in the next generation if you save and plant seed, but not in the current generation. Hope this helps. Dawn

Cream and gray are a classic match, one I've loved for a very long time, but which gray for your cream? None are pure. Various hues can look a perfect gray on their own but reveal their purplish, or pink, green, brown, or blue nature when combined with other colors. A suddenly clashing mauve gray against a newly brownish tan isn't the only thing that could happen. I remember a beautifully sophisticated, elegant old dining room in very soft yellow and blue. I was very surprised when in the middle of my envious compliments the owner told me the wallpaper and old woodwork were actually cream and gray.

Spacing is a bit tight, you might want to use a geneva double curtain or something similar to allow you to have more canes per vine to manage vigor. Also, research grape varieties. Sure those you listed are popular commercial varieties but they might need a lot of sprays or maintenance to get good fruit (no idea, would not survive in my zone). Also, there are so many super flavorful varieties that for one reason or other are not suitable for commercial growing but are awesome in a backyard. So far here in zone 4b I am LOVING Somerset as a early season seedless grape. Good luck.