Never, ever put your Phals outside comments i've made in the past apply to here, not necessarily NE USA. As far as getting flowers, if you read the first post plus the in depth FAQ on the subject it all begins to make sense . There are the two groups of Phals. those that need a cool down and those that need a warm up to flower. (though perhaps day length might apply to some species) Some that need a warm up (here) are Phal.violacea and Doritis pulcherrima Phal.equestris blooming seems to be triggered by a cooling down. Cheating. (Phal.equestris x Dor. pulcherrima) x Kingiella philippense bloomed late summer for years in my conditions. After reading various posts i though i would try to make it bloom in the spring so i moved it to my warmer growing conditions in Autumn. Worked like a charm. I agree with the comments about increased light but of course it all depends where you are. No Phal will survive summer or winter outside here, Too hot (sometimes) Too cold (sometimes) and low humidity when the wind blows from the interior of the Continent. Leaf Burn is a function of light plus high temperatures.

Glad you liked them Mehitabel and good try with the guess. Yes, Palace Reef has been suggested by many but use the link below to see a PR. Notice how narrow the lip on mine is as compared to the broader lip plus there is no gap in whatever that next "thing" above the lip is called. Mine is a very bright orange color with a gap of 1/4" between each side. It is definitely not Sogo Rose but a possibility of Sogo Grape from several of the pictures I have seen. They have the same narrow lip and the gap in the "thing". The 'Ching Phooey' smells too good to give it away plus the shine and thickness of the bloom just appeals to me. I'm no snob, I can do NOID's :>) Brooke Here is a link that might be useful: Phal. Palace Reef

I'm curious.....Does the main plant not have mottled leaves? What do the flowers look like? There are a number of Phal. species that have mottled leaves, but I would expect the mother plant to exhibit this trait as well as any keikis it might produce. The dark purple under the leaves...I think I see this on both the plant and keiki...are also an indicator that you have a "short line" hybrid. ( a plant that is not but a couple of generations from species) Phal. species generally are pretty good at producing keikis without any help. I notice you put hormone paste - I presume on a node of the bloom spike - so that may be a reason your keiki is not producing roots. I've never seen one that did not have enough roots to pot up by the time they had two leaves. I've also seen Phal. schilleriana plants in full bloom with blooming keikis who themselves had blooming keikis. It was quite a sight. You probably don't have any clue as to the parentage or name of the plant you have, but be advised that many of the Phal. species have a tendency to rebloom on an old spike, so I would not cut any spikes on a species or a short line hybrid until it actually started to turn brown. Let us know what the blooms look like......I'm betting they are not as large, full, and round as most Phals. you see on the market. I would also bet on light pink for a color Bill .

Lilian, I think the two phals look very healthy and should bloom if given the right conditions. As far as humidity/condensation, if there is any breeze they should be fine. In fact, they should enjoy the humidity as long as it doesn't get too cold (<50F/10C). If you are concerned, try to get them under a house eave or tree or something to protect them from the moisture. Just to be clear, personally I think it is a 15 degree temp change from day to night over a couple of weeks that initiates the spikes, not just the temperatures dropping to 50F/10C. It just happens that this day/night temps drop occurs naturally in the autumn. I use the 'outside until less than @50F/10C' technique on a lot of my phals and get spikes/flowers regularly in the winter. For the ones that stay indoors year round, in the autumn I put them by an open window overnight to get the autumn day/night temp drops to initiate spikes. IMO purple/red tint on the leaves means you are at the max light. Not a bad thing, but means you are close to sun-burning leaves with too much light. Also, most fluorescent/CFL/LED lighting works for orchids, doesn't have to be lights designed for plants (which costs much more generally). If you want to try inside lights, just let us know as there are a few of us inside growers on this forum who may be able to offer advice. Good luck, Bob