I've not seen anything like that & I'd be in a hurry to prune all that off, bag it& put it in the garbage can, or maybe tote it over to the Extension office. The only type of gall I've seen is crown gall, caused by a soilborne bacteria and causes a woody growth, usually at or just below the soil line, and I've only seen crown gall on grafted plants. I'll be following this with interest to learn more. So sorry that yucky stuff showed up on your plant, oh dear!

Don't be in a rush.
Some of them are cane gall and they don't kill.
The problem with stem gall and cane gall and root gall is that all of them are ugly. Crown gall is the worse as it can strangle a rose into nothingness.
I've had roses with stem galls out on the canes that continue to bloom and where the gall doesn't get anyworse.

Certain parts of my gardens are more rich in the bacteria that cause these. And I think The Fairy may be the most susceptible of all roses.

The third picture down isn't gall, but there may be a bit of fungal problem at the base of the cane coming out from the older cane (the purplish discoloration).

On a lot of roses, the canes can last for years. The gall areas are a bit weaker and may break from the weight of the cane out past the old damaged area.
These will NOT make other roses more susceptible to galls. The susceptibility is there all along. Your first, fourth and sixth pictures are of the weaker canes. If you've replacements, you might want to prune below them this year and let the replacements come.
And as you prune this rose, were it my rose, I'd use one of the Lysol anti bacteria and antiviral sprays on the secateurs and let the secateurs dry between cuts.

There's not much to add to Barbara and Ann's good advice. I've observed the same sort of growth on older canes on some cemetery roses - 'Betty Prior' in particular - and sent a sample off to the lab via Coop Extension - got back that it was "no known pathogen" and could be cell proliferation in areas which had been damaged in some way - sunburn, breakage, weedeater damage, canes rubbing, etc.

I rejoiced that there was no disease and then realized "no known pathogen" did not mean there was NO pathogen - just nothing that they test for. So, disinfecting pruning equipment is, as always, a good idea.

The canes continue to be productive, but every now and then, a volunteer or visitor finds one of these nasty growths, and comes to me in horror and says, "I found something wrong!"
Anita

That looks like mechanical damage to me. I was waiting for Ann to say it looked like cicada damage. It looks like damage from the inside out, except for the one where you obviously pruned and the rose healed over the perfect cut and sent out a new cane from the same bud eye.

Let me ask this: are these eruptions at the locations where bud eyes should be? Or are they randomly on the canes independent of the bud eyes? The reason I ask is that if you are pruning that close to the bud eye, you're damaging it and preventing new growth. Budeyes have the capacity to produce many canes from the same location, over and over.

Cicada damages in my garden are really the least damage of any of the different damages I've seen.
The usual ones are long slits (that look like bound buttonholes but for the lack of upper and lower tackings on the hole) on the underside of canes (so the larvae can drop down) and the healed sides of these slits don't seem to get galls. After two or three years, mine get a bit of fungal problems at their lower margins. (?Cicada 'spit' is ?Good?)
The seventeen year cicadas do a differnt kind of slit, still on the undersides of stems, but eight to ten slightly offset slits, and they count on the stems to keep growing, and then the slits are an area of weakness, where the stem breaks, dropping larvae to the ground.
I've still got some of the 17 year cicada slits on some of my tea roses that go back to the major emergence four years ago. (Tea rose canes are strong...grin....they didn't break.)

I appreciate your input. I am at work, and hope this message goes through.

These roses are about 7 feet tall and 5 feet wide. I seldom prune them. The new canes have the dark red color, then turn grey as they get older. They tend to be rather ruddy, and have few if any thorns. A man told me once that I was not pruning my trees correctly, because my pruning was not right up next to the tree. He said that if I left a couple of inches, the part of the cane that was left would die off, and fall taking a plug from inside the tree with it, then that inside part would have to heal. I wondered if that was happening here.

The roses could have fungus because I don't spray that much, but I have never seen this before and have 260 rose bushes.

I see no sign of gall around the crown.

We have cicadas galore, and there is a tree sort of north west of these roses. The cicadas could get into the roses.

Barbara, I am considering sending the picture to our Rose Society President, but thought I would ask here first.

Ann, you think it is stem gall, then? You know most of these pictures are from the ground. I have begun pruning the rose, and agree that it would be nice to let it come up from the ground first.

Anita, that is interesting to me because about 4 years ago or more I pulled out 2 Betty Priors that I thought had gall on their stems. I know more now, and am more hesitant, but I think that the "no known pathogen" is interesting.

Berndoodle, the sections that I have shown are where I have pruned large canes, I think. It is not a spontaneous occurrence on the rose. I cannot be positive, but the rose is large, and I have let it go. When some canes get in my way, I cut them off, but normally I don't prune it. I really think these spots are from pruning.

For what it's worth last year was horrible for my roses. We had unseasonably hot weather in January, Feb, and March. Then I don't remember when, but we had single digit weather for quite a while. The roses were more than budding, some were quite advanced with the pulp completely in the canes. The sudden shock of the freezing weather created a great deal of damage.

Must go now, but thanks for your input. I would like any other suggestions you might have. I have also thought of trying to send this picture to Mark Chamblee since he sells the Basye roses.

Sammy

Sammy,
That sort of thing can happen to any rose. But for some roses, that kind of problem would lead to the death of the cane beyond it. Shrub roses and a lot of OGRs can live with only half a xylem system making it past an 'knob'.
Yes, last year was a rough year, over here, too. Spring(Easter) kill did lead to some cankers on canes. These aren't cankers (cankers are fungal). This is where there was an opening of some sort...broken cane, spring kill, that caused a hole large enough to let the bacteria in. I don't know how long it takes to get 'x' amount of cane gall.
Your damage isn't cicada-they make long slits parallel to the canes.
Right now, were you to come visit here, I could probably find similar damage on old canes of some of my decade old roses. I'm living with that damage until replacement canes emerge.
Your second pix is probably of a two year old rose cane. Some of the others are four or five years old, or even older.
It's not a killer situation, but one to watch.

You cannot tell it by the pictures, but most of these canes are on the ground. There are many more on the rose, but I will do what you have done then, just try to wait until there is more new growth. The roses were so large that I think all the branches were interfering with new canes emerging from the ground. I intend to fertilize them well, and give them special care so the rose will grow newer canes, and I can cut these.

Since this is bacterial, is there anything I can do to the rose that will inhibit more bacterial growth - except to use dormant oil that is awful to use LOL? I will finish cutting up the remnants today, clean my pruners, and move on to other roses.

Dumb question: Do you think it is necessary in situations like this to clean your gloves also? If yes, what do you use? The gloves I use for work like this are sturdy gloves with the velcro straps across the wrist. Once heavey work is done, I use cheap gloves, but the ones I have used here are expensive. Do you think that spraying them with lysol spray is sufficient?

Thanks all of you. Ann, you are great?

Sammy