You can make it a little easier to grow in a container without holes if you keep a few tips in mind. Gaining experience at it helps too. If you stick to plants with less (subcuticular) waxiness in the leaves so that they show wilt easily. You can wait until the first signs of wilt to water. This is a form of stress, and not the best for your plants, but it would certainly be preferred to over-watering. You will quickly establish a water-needs pattern for the planting & learn to water at the approximate onset of wilt. You can use a wooden probe (sharpen a dowel in a pencil sharpener - don't waste your money on an inexpensive moisture meter) to check for soil moisture. Insert it deep into the pot. If it comes out damp & cool - no need to water. If it comes out dry - water. The human hand cannot detect moisture in soils at levels much below 45% saturation. Only at about 30% saturation, do soils begin holding water so tightly that it is unavailable for assimilation by plants. This allows you about a 15% margin of error. If you're able to keep from over-watering, it's inevitable that you'll have carbonate and metal salts build-up from irrigation water and any chemical fertilizers you might use. This can create a plasmolic effect that actually "sucks" moisture from roots (reverse osmosis), making it eventually impossible for the plants to absorb water from the salts-laden soil. I have some penjing plantings that are in shallow trays, some several years old. I use distilled water for irrigation along with a minimal amount of soluble micro-nutrients and fish/seaweed emulsion at every watering while the plantings are actively growing. This eliminates the salt build-up problem. You certainly CAN do it, but you'll need to be extra attentive if you choose a container w/o drainage. Al

It is a reed stem epidendrum and it will take temperatures down to freezing. A garden plant that needs almost full sun. Just tidy it up by cutting off dead bits and seed pods, pot it or place it in a rockery. My (garden plant) ones are growing against a western fence so they get shelter from the afternoon sun on extremely hot days (over 100F) Too much shade will encourage lanky growth and fewer flowers. Better quality ones are in a shadehouse.

No help? That is because you are asking an impossible question. If the orchid was say a vanda you would get a very different answer to that given if your orchid was a Cattleya. Does the orchid have few stems or lots and lots bulb like lumps? Perhaps google Orchid Blooms, select images and see if you can find a bloom that is similar in shape.

Linnea 56, You are the proud owner of a very nice looking Phalaenopsis orchid. Your plant appears not to be overly in need of repotting, unless the bark down in the center of the pot is decomposed and mushy. Most orchids detest wet feet, so the first test is whether or not the bark down deep in the pot dries out or not. The biggest issue I see with your plant is lack of light. The leaves appear lush, dark green, long and slender. All indicators of low light. The plant "leaning" in the pot is really normal for Phals. In nature they will attach to the trunk or a limb of a tree, or perhaps a crack in a rock face, and sunlight and gravity pull the heavy top downward, always in the same direction, toward the sunlight. The leaves will generally fan out from the core stem in a consistent pattern, with bloom spikes coming out from between the leaves and arching out into the air around the plant. We purchase the plant, that has been grown under optimum conditions with light from above, and the pot seldom moved until the day it is moved for sale. The leaves are generally a bit rusty green, thick, wide and relatively short, and not so many of them. signs of a healthy plant grown under optimum conditions. We get it home and place it with its prettiest side facing our intended audience, and as its blooms begin to age, every time we water it, we change its orientation. The plant soon begins looking more like a corkscrew, than a fan. Anyway, back to the chase...I would purchase orchid mix with chunks of bark large enough not to fall through the holes in your new pot. You want the bark to dry between watering. Get Fir bark, with chunks or charcoal and perlite in it, if you can find it. Do not use a pine bark mix. Yes, you can stand the plant up straighter when you repot if you want to. With more light the leaves will not be as long and spindly, and it will slowly begin to stand up better, for a longer time. Water when it is dry. Pick the pot up hold it in both hands and heft it. If it feels cool to the touch and heavy. Don't water. Light and room temperature to the touch, water. Hold the pot over the sink and thoroughly soak it with faucet on spray. Let the pot drip dry and replace it facing the same way it was before watering. If the blooms come out in a "bad" direction for showing the plant, then you can reorient the plant for several weeks while in bloom, but to prevent the corkscrew leaves, after blooming put it back in its original growing position. Fertilizer- it the mix is fir bark, suggest you use high nitrogen fertilizer. 30-10-10...10-5-5, or something similar. use liquid, and half strength half as often. If the box says 1Tablespoon to the gal. twice a month, then 1/2 Tablespoon once a month will do. Have fun learning, orchids are really "tough ol' birds", so with reasonable care you will get through this first potting. I still remember mine....vividly!