Wow, I am very aware of the brown spot problem and it has absolutely NOTHING to do with water your St Augustine. It is grubs that are laid in the lawn by the Japanese beetle in the spring. At the end of summer towards fall the grub from the eggs feeds on grass roots. It looks like round brown spots like your dog pissed there. If you pull on the brown spot and it comes up like a patch that's further proof. I treated my back yard and it stopped. I didnt treat the front and it has brown patches and bare spots. Dig around before it gets too cold and you will find grubs......Organic treatment is Milky spore

And move it in front of the window too. It's not getting any light where it is and likely shedding leaves. but yes, try house plants. Your fig is not edible.

Thanks Al! To give you an update, I watered yesterday (approximately 2 liters) and stopped once water began coming out of the drainage hole. After watering, the leaves rose and are no longer drooping (see before on left and after pic on right). I checked the soil today with a sharpened wood dowel and left it in for about 20 minutes and after inspecting it I saw no signs of moisture. Is the soil potentially not retaining enough water or drying out too quickly? Although the drooping seems to have corrected, the yellowing seems to have spread to more leaves and worsened. In terms of light, the tree is right next to a South facing window and the room is bright all day with the sun crossing from the left of our windows and when it is setting, the sun is directly shining on the plant from the right corner of our windows. I was out of town and my roommate left the windows open one night and the temperature dropped below 50 degrees. I am wondering if this was potentially the cause as this began to happen shortly a few days after that night. Any other ideas given this info? Thank you! Craig

If you had not already applied a chemical fungicide I could have helped you. Recheck the label on your fungicide to be sure it works in the temperatures you are getting now. Most tell you to not use above 80 or 85 degrees F. If that's on your label then stop using it now. The easy solution to the problem, had you not already used the chemical, is to apply ordinary corn meal at rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If you cannot find corn meal in 50 pound bags at your local feed store, you can also use cracked corn or corn flour from the grocery store. You can find it in 25 pound bags in stores that cater to the Hispanic community. Corn meal works by attracting a beneficial predatory fungus which kills the disease fungus. So if you have already used a fungicide, then the beneficial fungus is gone. If the temps are too high for your chemical fungicide, then wait 2 months and try the corn meal. Or you might be able to speed up the recovery by using compost at a rate of 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet along with the corn meal. Compost contains the beneficial fungus you need and will reinoculate the soil with it. Here are before and after pictures using corn meal. The grass in the pictures were in deep filtered shade of a large live oak tree. That was about as dense as it ever got in that area with zero hours of direct sunlight. St Augustine does not get thatch except under the most ridiculous maintenance practices. It would require daily watering and weekly fertilizing with a liquid spray. I have seen it, but only on one yard. And as soon as the management on that yard went back to normal the thatch disappeared. That lawn was growing entirely on top of the soil. Aerating won't help. Would you characterize your soil as sand or something else? Okay I just read back. This is Floratam? Floratam is the most disease resistant variety of St Aug. It is also the most sensitive to chemicals. Stop mowing it low and let it grow up for several weeks until it is higher than your mower's highest setting. Then mow every 2-3 weeks. The idea is to grow deeper roots which can get nutrition from deeper down in the soil/sand. You should see the new Floratam growing in at a faster rate than the disease can progress. You MIGHT still need corn meal to get rid of it, but tall Floratam in full sun can outrun a disease. Deeper rooted Floratam needs much less water and even less fertilizer. I have grown it up to 32 inches high in the Texas heat and drought, and it never needed either irrigation or fertilizer over a 2 year period. I'm not suggesting you do that, but the grass loves being tall. Here are some other tips to keep disease out of your lawn. Never put anything on the grass and leave it overnight. No toys, no yard clippings, no trash, no yard tools, nuthin that would cut off the airflow overnight. Disease will form in the morning dew if the dew cannot evaporate easily. Also be sure your soil drains well both downward and outward so it never puddles anywhere. You can improve downward percolation by spraying the entire yard with any clear shampoo at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet and follow that up with 1/2 to 1 inch of irrigation or rain. And one last question: what is your watering regimen? How often and for how long do you water when it is not raining?