There's not much information in your question HU, but I'll give you several scenarios. If you already applied it, you will know if it will hurt in 3 weeks. Chances are good that if you did not read the label to see what was safe, then you also missed the part about proper application. You may not get any herbicide effect at all if you applied wrong. But it takes about 3 weeks for that herbicide to work. If you have not applied it, return the bag and get a normal fertilizer. If you need to kill weeds then spot spray the weeds with a liquid herbicide that is safe for bermuda. READ THE BOTTLE to determine if it is safe on bermuda. If you are planning to reseed with more bermuda, you probably missed the window. Bermuda seed likes hot soil to germinate. The window is from mid June to late August. If you have a bermuda lawn that is thinning, something is wrong. More than likely the problem is too much shade. Adding more seed will not fix the problem. Either get rid of the shade or get rid of the bermuda in the thin areas. You could plant other grass types (St Augustine tolerates shade well) or you could create a flower bed there. If you were planning to overseed a bermuda lawn with rye so it will be green all winter, I suggest you don't do that. The approach works for golf courses and football fields, but not for home lawns. The professionals use a herbicide in the early spring to kill the rye, but us home owners cannot buy that chemical.

Those are not pictures of bermuda. The bermuda appears to be dormant. If it is really, truly, all the way dormant, you can spray those weed grasses with either Grass B Gone or with RoundUp. But if the bermuda is alive at all, it will die along with the other plants. The bottom picture might be a sedge. Does it ever get flower heads on it? If so then if you could post a picture of the flower heads we could ID it better. If it is a sedge, then grass killer won't touch it. Thanks for clarifying Bakersfield. It's not often thought of as SoCal, but it really does fit my definition. You're in northern SoCal. What is your watering regimen? You should not be getting weeds. If you water every day then you should expect weeds. This time of year you don't need water more frequently than once a month. In the hottest Bakersfield heat of summer it would be once a week. When temps get into the 100s then go to once every 5 days. When you water you should apply a full inch all at one time. Deep watering gives much (MUCH) better grass performance all around. Measure 1 inch by placing several cat food or tuna cans around the yard and time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will be your watering time, every time, from now on. Then it's a matter of frequency. With temps in the 90s deep water once a week. In the 80s water once every 2 weeks. Temps in the 70s water every 3 weeks. Below 70 water once a month at most. Rain counts. If you get an inch of rain, don't water for at least the appropriate time based on temperature. Last year in South Texas we had a perfect storm of rain so I never turned on the sprinkler until July. Don't feel like you have to water simply because you haven't watered and the soil is dry. Watch the grass. If it gets wilty looking, then water, deeply. What is your fertilizer regimen? Do you fert every month or couple times a year? Every month with a high N (low to no P or K) will give you the most dense turf that fights off the weeds best.

Okay I'm in San Antonio and moving to Bandera. Hold off on the fertilizer unless you want to use an organic like alfalfa pellets or corn meal. If you've never seen those flowers then you don't have buffalo. Can you take a picture on a cloudy day from a height of about 3 inches. If the grass has flowers or tassels or anything on it, that would help. You have not used the really hard stuff, but then you did use 7x too much, so I'd let things rest for a couple weeks. Today's herbicides often don't show progress for at least a week. If you have St Augustine, for example, 2,4-D will kill it. Applying anything at 7x the rate would probably wipe out St Aug. St Aug is a very hardy grass, but one weakness is sensitivity to most herbicides. It's weird. Let's figure out what grass you have before going crazy with treating it. If you water the fertilizer in immediately after applying, it should not hurt a normal grass. The problem comes if you don't water it and then the morning dew creates a very salty solution that will kill most grass (but not usually St Augustine - weird). If you have a hand sprayer of Weed b Gon, you could spray those dandelion looking weeds. Just spray the leaves - don't drench the soil. They might be thistle, which looks very similar before it flowers. As for fertilizing the lawn, I'd just enjoy the bluebonnets for a couple more weeks.

You have centipede in California? Is that a new trend since the drought? 99% of all the centipede is in Florida and still that's not very much centipede. It grows best in terrible soil with terrible care. It needs almost no fertilizer. People say that once every other year you can drag an empty fertilizer bag over it and that's enough. It loves the acidic soils like they have on the east coast. I would think St Augustine and bermuda would be the main go-to grasses in the Central Valley. Some water restrictions are fairly enlightened and some are guaranteed to kill everything if you follow them. Ours are horrible. We can water from 7am to 9am and 9pm to 11pm on one day per week. Well, who's around in the morning from 7-9??? You'd have to be retired. I suppose you could use timers (and I have a good one). But timers don't work for veggie gardens and plants located around the yard. That leaves 2 hours in the dark to get your watering done. In San Antonio we could water from midnight until 10am and from 8pm to midnight on your day. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.