At this point, that koi is so weakened that any parasite preparation may put him over the edge. Plus, you don't know what parasites he has (if any) and there is no one chemical that gets them all. For now, you need to work on getting the pH up and stabilized with baking soda. There is a baking soda calculator link at the bottom of the page. that link also has a tab at the top for a salinity calculator. Get that sick koi salted to 0.3% over a couple of days and get his water heated and aerated. Koi cannot heal when the water is cool...he really needs to be warm or he may not recover. PH shock is pretty hard on them. Salt the rest of the pond too, to help any remaining fish. Since the pH crash probably killed off your beneficial bio bacteria, you may see some ammonia spikes and a raise in nitrites. In addition to helping the fish overcome the affects of the crash, salt will prevent damage from the nitrites. Also, what state are you in? The akca.org has koi health advisors located all over the country and if you contact a koi club in your area they may have a KHA who lives close enough to you to come over and help. Here is a link that might be useful: Baking Soda Calculator

...and where do you live? What's in the spot where you want to extend now? The more you know about the variety of grass you have the easier it will be to match everything. If you have a seeded type grass then I'll tell you now that fall is the best time to do this job. Trying to seed grass in the spring usually leads to disappointment by about the 4th of July. But if you have a sod type lawn, then this should be easy. We just need more information.

You're doing just about everything wrong, so yes, there is something else you can do. Your watering and fertilizing plan is guaranteed to generate thatch. You're doing both far too frequently. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch (2.5 cm) all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s (32-37 C), deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s (26-32 C), deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s (21-26 C), deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70 (<21 C), deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Fertilizing: Once at the end of May, once in early September, and once in November after the grass stops growing but before it turns brown. Mowing: Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting. Here's a motivational photo for you. All these lawns are KBG. The green lawn follows the guidelines explained above. The others water every day for just a few minutes. Thanks to morpheuspa for the picture.

Agree with the previous...it is very important to know where you live. I'm going to assume it's a northern area with northern grasses. Does the front yard slope to the neighbor? Do you have to deal with the slope? Too bad you didn't come here before buying the weed n feed. First of all, wnf is a poor choice for any landscape. It's one of those 'sounds too good to be true' products. It's a poor fertilizer with a poor herbicide. Secondly, it's too late to apply either herbicide or fertilizer. Fertilizer should have gone down 6 weeks ago and herbicide 4 weeks ago. wnf is supposed to be applied to wet grass, so if you did that, then you might get some herbicide effect. Normally your lawn should stop growing in the next few weeks, but since you just fertilized, it might get a growth spurt. I guess I'm also assuming, since this is a rental, that this is the first fertilizer product of any kind the lawn has seen in years. It should really pop with new growth; however, this is a bad time to get new growth, right before frost time. I don't think I would apply anything else for this year. You might see your neighbors winterizing their lawn after the grass stops growing, but since you just applied the wnf, I'd just sit it out until April. You can water. It is best to water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequently, this time of year, means once every 2 weeks. Assuming this lawn was involved in the repeated summer rains this year, it should be fine to stretch out watering to 2 weeks. When the grass stops growing, you can go to monthly watering unless it rains or snows. Watering dormant grass is more for the soil than the grass. Also since you mowed it low, you might not have to mow it again until April. As was mentioned, mow high. Reset your mower for the highest setting and mow if the grass gets that tall again. If you feel like you really have to do something, you can apply organic fertilizer any time of year even though you applied a chemical fertilizer recently. The chemical ferts feed the plants almost directly. The organic fertilizer feeds the microbes living in the soil, which, in turn, feed the plants eventually (3 weeks). Gosh, the timing on this is bad. I guess I would wait until the grass stopped growing even to apply organics. NEXT SPRING: First thing is to apply preemergent herbicide. Put that down when the forsythia are blooming in YOUR neighborhood. April: in mid April you can spot spray the weeds with something like Weed-b-Gon. May: in late May (Memorial Day), apply fertilizer for the first time. Don't get suckered in by the fertilizer and seed advertising starting in February. Stick it out and fertilize in late May. SUMMER: Just water and mow. NEXT FALL: September: in early Sept, Labor Day, fertilize again. In mid Sept you can spot spray weeds again with Weed-b-Gon. November: in late Nov you can winterize with something like uncoated urea. Do this AFTER the grass fully stops growing but before the frost really hits. WATERING: The single most important part of lawn care is proper watering. Deep and infrequent is the mantra for lawn watering. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Time how long it takes your sprinkler to fill some tuna or cat food cans placed in the yard. That is your watering time from now on. Infrequent means no more than once per week in the hottest heat of summer and no less than once a month when temps are less than 70.