Yes, I live in the high desert of Southern California. It starts getting cold here in November. I fertillize in Oct through Feb once a month with calcium Nitrate. This fools the grass that it is still a warm season as it warms the roots. The grass stays green as everyone else is brown. Then in Febuary I hit it with pot ash. this wakes it up and the next few weeks it is so long and healthy for the new season.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lawn Care Management

Craze, I think you should fertilize again: if you have doubts, give it a half-dose, with the hand held whirley spreader. I gave my lawn a full dose, of Lesco 24-1-2 (or whatever, on the last two numbers: but they were low numbers) from Home Depot, just yesterday, Nov 1st.

You're in zone 5, and I suspect that you have KBG, and perhaps some fescue and P. Rye mixed in with it. The KBG especially would like to be really well fed, regularly well fed, 'maximized' if you will, like a sod farm does it. And you've seen how a sod farm looks, that deep dark green, and fully spread out, into every available open space in the dirt, while neighborhood lawns are just barely holding on, in July heat. The difference is nitrogen, and lots of it.

And here you are. Beginning of November. There just isn't a better time of the year to put a healthy dose of nitrogen on that lawn, is there? And timing? Timing as far as "regular feeding" goes? Your prior app was end of September, just about optimal spacing from that app to this one. I'd put a full dose down, and your lawn will love you for it. If you absolutely must, you can compromise, and put a half-dose down, but that's not my recommendation. Give it a big 'ol meal, and it will be healthy, and amaze you, come spring.

Late fall fertilization is the most important one for cool season grasses. Definitely give a full application in the upcoming weeks in zone 5. Your lawn may look nice now, but the late fall fertilization will show it's results in a great looking lawn next year. I applaud you for specifying late spring as your first application next year. Too many people want to jump start their lawns with an early spring fertilizer application to the detriment of lawn health.

I live in zone 5 as well and with the weather being mild, the lawn is continuing to grow where once a week mowing is still needed. Once that stops, that is when to apply your late fall fertilizer. Don't be surprised if that isn't around Thanksgiving.

I agree with the above posters. In my area we apply the last of the year fert around Thanksgiving (last 3rd of 4th weekend), then again in mid to late Feb for a spring greenup, meaning I apply in late Sept, then late Nov, and then in late Feb.

Thanks all for input....I put my last ap of fert for this season on yesterday. I have TTTF.... I'm officially done for the season now. Let is snow. haha

I fertilized when I seeded on Sep 1, then again on Oct 4, and I am doing it again this week when I get home. That will be it untill the fall when I do the pre-M. Hopefully next year I will have a really thick nice lawn!

I'm also hoping I dont have watering issues!

I unfortunately can't be like the peopel who only water once per week. i need to water twice pe rweek because I just don't have the available water in my well to get it all out there in just one soaking.

Looking forward to next year's lawn.

This upcoming week will be cold here. I decided to put down my last fertilizer as well and pack it in. Will still mow once or twice just to mulch the leaves in.

jimtnc: I would seriously reconsider that early spring fertilizer application to jump start spring greenup. Early spring fertilization for cool season grass is not needed, especially when you apply late fall fertilizer. Carbohydrate stores normally will be focused on root building come spring but with applied nitrogen, will instead be diverted to topgrowth (unless using organic fertilizer).

Appreciate your concern. I used to fert in Sept, Oct and last one in last Nov. Now, NCSU has revised that to fert in Sept, late Nov...then again in Feb. I'm not sure if they're right, but I'm fairly confident they know much more than I. See link.

Also, the link is for all grasses in my area, if that helps anyone.

Here is a link that might be useful: push here