Sealing a new concrete pond
15 years ago
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- 15 years ago
- 15 years ago
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Round Concrete Wall Mold for around pond? (I'm new)
Comments (3)Vince, My sister's horse trough is missing, have you been in Pennsy lately. lol! How about tall, narrow (or a couple of different widths) hypertufa or concrete tiles to surround the tub? Like stepping stones. You could imprint leaves or carve them. If you need them stablized; you can buy copper or galvanized wire to secure them around the tub. OR Got paint? OR A 25 foot roll of copper flashing is around $50. I just got one for silversmithing class. It can be textured or left plain and cutout to ring the galvanized tub. It would look great as it ages. If it's not tall enough to cover the whole side of the tub you could just accent the center ribbed section and one of the other sections. Post some pictures when your project is complete. Billie p.s. any scrap pieces of copper could be sent to poor silversmith students in Pennsylvania....See MoreConcrete Pond leaking
Comments (3)Oh.... I feel your pain! My Dad and I built a concrete pond and it was a *lot* of work. The one thing he taught me is that *nothing* will bond to a crappy surface. It's going to take some work (but it's worth it). I would say the first thing you have to do is wire brush the walls and get off anything that will come off. Next, powerwash the whole thing and pump the water out. Open up any cracks with a chisel (make an inverted "v") and fill them with hydraulic cement. Be sure that any bad patches of cement are removed and chisel down to good cement. Then, (preferably on a good, overcast day), trowel new cement on the walls. I'd also suggest using hydraulic cement to bond the new floor to the new walls. An alternative to troweling cement would be to get a poll place to spray gunite but that's going to be expensive. how big is the pond? If you can get a good coat of new cement on the walls you should be fine for years. Where are you located? Will winter freezing be an issue? It is for me. You will still need to waterproof the new cement. I highly recommend UGL DryLock Latex. It's fish safe and comes in four colors: white, beige, gray and blue. I don't like black for a pond either, but I can't recommend blue. It can look "fakey" once the algae moves in. For my pond I put down one coat of UGL beige but it was too light. I brought a couple of rocks to Home Depot and the color guy tinted another gallon to match them! If you use UGL you'll need at least two coats (but the latex version dries very quickly) There is a two part neoprene that comes in clear (which is not really clear but milky). It's expensive (around $200 a gallon). It will probably give an excellent seal but I have no complaints about UGL for $30 a gallon BasilB...See MoreRestoring the Concrete Pond pt3 -Gilroy CA
Comments (9)Very nice. Really like the rock shoals, DW has a very good eye. Using big rocks is smart. Once algae covers the rocks a bit they tend to disappear a bit, bigger rocks disappear less. Some things you might want to consider... It looks like there are some gaps in between rocks that could be filled with a little bit of mortar. I know the look you're going, you want natural not mortared rock wall, so you don't want to grout them all. But when they're underwater things change. Just like in natural gaps will fill with muck. And you won't be able to see these gaps as well even with no algae. Not a big deal but imo, better to fill with mortar. You can still leave deep gaps, but they can be filled a bit. At least as far as I can tell from the pictures. Not saying this is important at all. The cracking mortar isn't a big deal of course. For other readers... Reducing water in mortar reduces shrinkage. Like dry mashed potatoes. Two 1/2" coats would reduce shrinkage. Or doing small sections. Each section shrinks and then an adjacent section is done. The shrinkage crack would happen where it's thinnest, over the folds. You can fill the larger cracks, like say more than 1/16", if you liked. This is a good idea to lock it all down, but not super important. What is kind of important is to wait 3 or 4 weeks before filling with water. 4 weeks is best. You can wet it down right away, a little standing water would be OK. There is a lot of debate on whether keeping cement damp is needed. 30 years ago it was a requirement. Cement never stops curing and it does need some moisture. So to me, in summer, I do think it helps. And it's so easy being at the bottom of a pond. The 3 or 4 weeks are needed for the crystal structure to form enough to be fairly waterproof and to completely enclose the lime. If you add water too soon the lime can leach out and weaken the mortar a lot. People fear the lime leaching out and causing high pH and can be a small issue with uncured cement. But the weakening of the mortar is of more concern imo. Before filling the pond hose down everything. Mortar, rocks, liner, until there's a few inches of standing water. No reason to scrub anything or use anything other than water. Let that sit for 12 hours or longer. Pump out that water. Now you'd be ready to fill the pond. This wash down gets rid of dirt and mortar dust and gives any surface lime a chance to dissolve into the water. Some people might tell you to wash the mortar with acid to "remove the lime". An acid wash has the opposite effect. The surface of cement reacts with CO2 forming a kind of "rust" called calcite. The CO2 can be in the air or water. Calcite has a pH of about 7 and helps seal the cement beneath. An acid wash would dissolve the calcite leaving fresh brand new cement with a surface pH of 12. Formation of calcite is also why you don't want a lot of standing water during the cure. You want CO2 in the air getting to the cement....See MoreCoffee-staining a concrete pond?
Comments (6)Hi, LW! [I know I play fast and loose with staying on topic over at the Japanese Gardening forum, but wasn't sure they'd appreciate this over there - or have much in the way of likely answers :) I may try this over in Ponds, but this forum seems to have the go-to guys for concrete...] The pond is not new, but had been in place a while when my mother bought the house ten or twelve years ago. During that time she has become less and less capable of caring for her yard, and I'm sometimes able to help fill the gap. My most recent work on the pond was to bail out a three-or-four year accumulation of very black anerobic plant matter and liquid slime. Two or three good rains later, the concrete was back to not really a truly glaring white, but an annoyingly reflective buff (a slightly defective rain gutter overhead provides easy, if weather-dependent, rainwater filling). Whatever bacteria/algae/slime might grow there seems to be failing on the job. "inorganic cement colors from HD" Not sure what you mean here. Would that be like the re-plastering you mentioned? Who/what is "HD"? "How about mud?" Now there's an idea. I could pretend that this is a traditional Japanese clay-sealed pond, without the leaks :) And it'd give me a good excuse/reason to read up on how those work. But I'd still love to hear from any of these other go-to concrete guys as to what they think of the coffee-staining idea :) - Evelyn PS. I promise that, if I do this, I'll give it a couple rainwater changes, and then a couple weeks with just plants before bringing fish in, so as to avoid giving them a coffee buzz :)...See More- 15 years ago
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