I'm guessing Dimension in the late summer. I just brushed some RU on the tops of the Poa with a cloth style swiffer brush. Hopefully the KBG will fill in without having to reseed those areas. Any thoughts on the above? It's a little depressing looking at all the Poa. I know everyone worked very hard last season with their renovations and this is what we have to show for them.

"Poa annua" is an annual grass, aka annual ryegrass that is often included in some lawn seed mixes to provide a quick green up. It is a cool weather grass that dies out when the hot, dryer, summer weather arrives. Since this is an annual using plant poisons to kill it are unnecessary since more than likely it will die out of its own accord before that plant poison would kill it. However, any plant poison that would kill this will also kill the desireable grasses you want, giving space for more "weeds" to grow. The presence of clover in a lawn might be an indication of a soil nutrient problem and clover is a "weed" today only because the makers of plant poisons could not make one that would not kill clover off. White Dutch Clover was desireable in lawns when I was growing up in the 1940's and 1950's. It started becoming a "weed" when the plant poisons started showing up in the 1950's. Keep your "Poa annua" cut so it does not make any seeds and it will not continue to grow. That is a much less expensive, and much more environmentally acceptable, then spraying plant poisons around.

I am trying to figure out the best schedule for my pre-M. I have bermuda during spring/summer and overseed with rye during fall/winter. My lawn is ~1400 sq ft. The Resolute 65WG herbicide I have indicates an annual max application of .36-.83 oz/1,000 sq ft for bermuda , and .18-.55 oz/1,000 sq ft for rye. There is a special section in the instructions for application of poa annua control in established bermuda overseeded with rye that indicates using .18-.36 oz/1,000 sq ft 6-8 weeks before overseding, and a second application 4-8 weeks after overseeding. Since the first section indicated a max application of .55 oz/1,000 sq ft on rye (even though my rye only exists for half the year), and the MINIMUM recommended application amount in the second section (for bermuda overseeded with rye) is .18 oz/1,000 sq ft, does this mean the maximum number of applications per year I can make is 3? (assuming I use the min .18 oz/1,000 sq ft/application amount and the max .55 oz/1,000 sq ft/year total allowable amount) If I can only do 3 applications per year, and considering I overseed the rye in mid-october, I am thinking the pre-M applications should occur middle of August, middle of December, and middle of April. I am confident on the first two because they correspond with the 6-8 weeks before overseeding and the 4-8 weeks after overseeding specified in the instructions. However I'm not sure about the April application. Is April too late to do any good for spring P. annua? The instructions on the bottle indicate that the .18 oz/sq ft application will only by effective for 3 months. So, 3 applications at 3 months each leaves me with only 9 months of coverage. Am I being too conservative on my max annual application amount (.55 oz/1,000 sq ft) considering I only have rye half the year? Should I be using the .83 oz/1,000 sq ft max annual amount associated with bermuda lawns instead?

I'm no help with the poa issue. As far south as I am it is not much of an issue. I see it in the lawn, but only for a few weeks (long enough to go to seed, though). Overseeding KBG? Why? Especially when it's as dense as yours seems to be? I think you're watering too frequently...unless your temps are running over 110 degrees F. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. There's a very small chance you have clay. Are there brick factories nearby? If not you probably don't have clay. It is much more likely you have a soil with an imbalance of salts like calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium. That can be corrected once you have a good soil test (Logan Labs $25 is the test you need). You can see for yourself whether you have clay by doing a jar test. Find a clear container, fill it half way with soil, fill it the rest of the way with water and a few drops of soap. Measure up the side with a ruler and take a picture to see how many inches of soil you have. Then screw the top on the jar and shake it like crazy. Set the jar down with the ruler next to it. At 2 minutes take another picture. At 2 hours take another picture. At 2 days take another picture. The material that has settled after 2 minutes is sand and gravel. After 2 hours you'll get the loam. At that point if you can see through the water on top so that you could read something held on the other side of the jar, then you have zero clay. Everything that will settle will settle by 2 days. Suspended clay particles will still cloud the water after 2 days. Then you can use the measurements of settled material in your pictures to determine the proportional content of your soil (sand versus loam versus clay). Zones are only used to select plants for winter hardiness. Once you pick a plant, then the zone is meaningless for care. For example I think Oregon has most of the zones except 9 and 10. But I would not think to grow bermuda there.