Without a picture, I'd guess let it be as they are pretty tough. Bob

all of my plants (I only have 3 right now. I'm a newbie...don't have 300 plants like Harvey or Jane.) are in the kitchen by the sink. The sink is not under a window, but the room gets lots of light from windows and sliding glass doors in the adjacent family room. The temp is usually in the high 70s. So far the spots are not spreading or getting larger. I haven't put any fertilizer on it yet. My jpeg from my phone is working again, so I'll try to post it now. I do think the stem where all the blossoms died at once originated by this leaf. I posted on this earlier. The other stem with blossoms is fine so far.

I'm not familiar with Azamax, but looking online it seems the indoor pot growers swear by it for spider mites and they know their stuff when it comes to growing 'leafy' plants indoors. I got a lot of my LED light info/knowledge from those type of sites :) Once when it was below zero outside, I used AVID in a small not often used shower which had a ventilation fan. During and after spraying I ran the fan for @12 hours, plus I didn't run water in the shower and kept the room door closed for several days. The second time I used it I was able to spray everything outside on a nice calm morning. Both times I wore long sleeves but not a respirator, I just watched my breathing and spray direction when I was spraying. Between my arm length and sprayer hose/wand length I had at least 6' of clearance, ultimately I felt safe. For us small hobby growers, I think as long as you don't pour any extra/unused portions down the drains, we aren't being that harmful to the water supply. Make a little and try to use it all is my advice when using AVID. I usually try to do most of my spray treatments in the very early mornings when the wind is generally calm here in western Ohio to prevent any unwanted 'drift'. I'm not sure it has been mentioned, but spider mites usually occur when things are very dry so keeping humidity high seems to help prevent them. Hard to do indoors when heating during the winters though. Good luck, Bob

What kind of grow medium is it in, and did you make sure it had an 'extra' measure of water to carry it over while you were away? It looks like oedema/ edema, a physiological disorder. Something I wrote about it: Oedema Oedema (aka edema) is a physiological disorder that can affect all terrestrial plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Increase light levels and temperature * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al