Hi Debbie,

Most dendrobiums you see in big box stores are hybrids of either what are called 'soft-cane' (ie nobile hybrids...those ones with flowers all along the cane) or 'hard-cane' (ie the Phalaenanthe/spatulata types with flowers coming out in a spike at the top of the cane). Generally, if I'm not mistaken, most hard caned dends are warm growing year around, and flower sporadically throughout the year. Soft canes tend to enjoy a bit of a rest in winter and flower in spring-ish.

This classification system is a little misleading however, and I still get very confused by the terms. In terms of cultural requirements, I find it a terrible way to classify the second largest genus of orchids, because there is so much variability. For instance, latouria dendrobiums produce spikes and flowers at the top of canes...and yet they are cultured vastly different from dend bigibbum (a phal type). Certain formosae/nigrohirsute types certainly -look- like nobile hybrids and yet don't really need the winter rest that soft-canes reputedly need.

Perhaps someone can clarify exactly what identifies something as soft/hard cane; to be honest, I'd rather look up the botanical section of each plant as a better indicator of culture!

A pretty good site which groups species can be found here ...although it doesn't give that much cultural information, it is enlightening to see where certain species belong.

Hope this helps and wasn't too confusing!

I still consider myself a newbie at orchids, so I'm glad I posted this. I didn't know there were two kinds of dendrobiums. After reading your description, it appears that I have a hard cane dendrobium (flower spike grew out of the top of a cane).

Yes, I'd love to learn more. If anyone else has any other info to share, it is appreciated.

Debbie

Hi Debbie,

The AOS Culture Sheet on Dendrobiums does a great job of describing the main types of Dends, and includes culture notes for each.

Julie

Here is a link that might be useful: AOS Culture Sheet - Dendrobiums

I forget where I found this (I dump these things in messages to myself in gmail), but it's attributed to Gordon Heaps:

DENDROBIUMS
This large and diverse genus of orchids gives the orchid growers many options for growing. Flower forms, colors, sizes from miniature to giant, easy to grow or difficult, Dendrobiums have it all. Under the diverse indigenous conditions Dendrobiums may be found growing on snow covered mountains of Japan or down to sea level tropical climates. All Dendrobiums are found in SE Asia, Japan and down to NE Australia.
The more than 1500 species are divided into several distinct groups according to their culture or flower form. They are sympodial orchids, mainly epiphytic in nature. Pseudobulbs range from small roundish and 5cm. tall to canelike and 1.5 m. in height. They may be deciduous or evergreen with some species requiring several months of dormancy.

The flowers are also quite variable in size and lasting time. They may be open for a single day while other species may last several weeks. Flower colors, shapes and sizes are diverse as well. Tiny flowers of 1cm. or very large flowers up to 15 cm. in diameter. Petals may be twisted like corkscrews, undulated or flat.

There are fourteen distinct sections within the Dendrobium genus with some being very easy to grow while others need very diverse and difficult conditions to grow or flower.

The general culture of this large group of orchids is as varied as the areas that they are found in. They are orchids and therefore they require the standard conditions of all other orchids: AIR, LIGHT, WATER, NUTRITION, TEMPERATURE, and HUMIDITY. Each condition varies with each species. It must be noted that the climate or indigenous growing conditions must be met to have success with this genus.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis and its many hybrids: (Cooktown Orchid)
This group (section) of the Dendrobiums is the easiest group to grow and the most common because of the many beautiful hybrids. D. phalaenopsis has an arching inflorescence with many brightly colored flowers. They are evergreen orchids with cylindrical canes (pseudobulbs) of 60cm. _ 120cm. The number of inflorescences and the number of flowers on each inflorescence increase with the age of the plant. ( Phalaenopsis means moth-like)

Potting: best left undisturbed in smaller pots.
Standard mix of bark, literock, charcoal and perlite.
Extra drainage holes in the pot is desirable

Light: Direct filtered light
Some summer shade may be necessary

Temperature: 18C-20 C are acceptable
These temperatures can be adjusted down slightly in the winter.

Watering: Thoroughly soak each watering
Dry before the next watering

Fertilizing: A balanced fertilizer program of 20-20-20
Avoid the use of high nitrogen fertilizers
Feed every watering
Leach every 5th watering

Humidity: 50% is fine
Avoid water on the foliage
Lots of air movement

Problems: Fungal spots
Spider mites
Development of Keikis

Dendrobium kingianum
There are two species in this group, D kingianum and D. delicatum. These species have many color forms, shapes and sizes and are easy to grow with the plant size increasing rapidly. Found in Australia, growing lithophytically in large clumps of tangled canes frequently on rocks overhanging creeks or streams.

Potting: this lithophytic orchid does not like being mounted
Fine mixture, same ingredients as phalaenopsis type Dendrobiums

Light: Full sun is necessary

Temperature: ranges from 25C summer to 5C in the winter.
D. kingianum must have dormant period of at lease 100 days

Watering: Likes lots of water during the growing period
Water only 1/3 as frequently during dormancy

Fertilizer: A heavy feeder during new growth (after flowering)
20-20-20 is okay.
10-52-10 before dormancy

Humidity: 50% to 80% are acceptable levels
Winter dormancy periods need high humidity levels

Problems: a good one, keeping the plant at a reasonable size and shape.
Scale and mealy bugs.

Dendrobium bigibbum
Another large group of Dendrobium with many hybrids that is easily grown in the home environment. Some of the hybrids can obtain 1m. to 2m. in height but there are many windowsill size plant. D. bigibbum, D. compactum , D.phalaenopsis are hybridized into many of our most popular and easiest Dendrobiums to grow.

Culture: same as D. phalaenopsis.

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, farmeri, guibertii, densiflorum, griffithanum.
This group of Dendrobiums is probably the showiest of all orchids when they are in flower, unfortunately the flowers do not last very long. Large, cascading inflorescence with brilliant orange or yellow flowers. India, Nepal and the Himalayan Mountains are home to this exotic group.

Potting: into orchid clay pots with extra drainage
Mixture of bark, literock, charcoal, and spongerock
Under potting is desirable.

Light: High light requirements are necessary.
Do not shade at any time during the year.

Temperature: Very accepting of warm or cool condition
Flowering and growing period, 18C to 25C
Dormant periods, September to December, 14C to 16C

Water: Evenly moist during growing periods
Water only regular amount during dormancy.

Fertilizing: Heavy to medium rates of 10-52-10 after flowering
20-20-20 during dormancy
7-11-27 to break dormancy December, January.

Humidity: 50%-70% year round

Problems: Leaf spots are common during dormancy if foliage is wet.
Mealy bugs love the terminal growth.

Dendrobium aggregatum, lindleyi, capillipes.
A very unique and beautiful member of the Dendrobiums found in south China and Burma. More difficult to grow than other Dendrobiums because of specific dormancy periods. These Dendrobiums have short pseudobulbs, cascading inflorescens of yellow or orange flowers in the spring. They are deciduous orchids so leaves will shrivel as water is reduced.

Potting: mounting on cork is best.
Very well drained mixture if potting.

Light: High light year round.

Temperature: Intermediate to cool temperatures required.
10C to 16C during the winter months.
16C to 22C summertime

Water: Lots of water during growing periods, especially if mounted.
Dry during the winter.
Do not let the pseudobulbs shrivel.

Fertilizing: 20-20-20 during summer growth.

Humidity: Maintain at least 60% during dormancy.

Dendrobium chrysotoxum, moshatum, pulchellum, chryseum and fimbriatum.
Interesting "eye" Dendrobiums from South China and the Himalayas to Burma, Thailand and Laos. They are usually tall canes with deciduous foliage and two eyes on the lip giving the impression that they are peeking out from the petals. The plants themselves are quite unattractive as they are devoid of leaves except on the new growth but when in flower the inflorescences come from the tips of the "dead" canes.

Potting: Well-drained mix with extra drainage hole in the pot.
Some form of support will be necessary.
Wire Tomato cages work well.

Light: High light year round is necessary for success.

Temperature: Warm growers, 18C to 25C year round.

Water: Because of the need to be well drained, dry between watering.
Add lots of water when the new canes are forming.
Dry slightly in the fall and winter period.

Fertilizing: 20-20-20 is satisfactory

Humidity: Maintain approximately 50%

Problems: Keeping the plants upright because of their height.
Mealy bugs and scale.

Dendrobium canaliculatum, gouldii, stratiodes, antennatum and lineale. (Antelope Dendrobiums)
These New Guinea Dendrobiums are grouped together with the name Antelope because of the prominent upward growing petals that resemble Antelope antlers. Frequently these plants can reach heights of 180cm or more, but there are some species within the group that are miniature or smaller. ( D. canaliculatum, D. antennatum). They will generally grow well in the house at normal temperatures but be careful to obtain the smaller species or hybrids.

Potting: mix must not be allowed to become stagnant.
Sphagnum and sponge-rock mixed in even proportions.
Keep them pot bound for best results.

Light: Filtered to bright light year round

Temperature: Tropical heat.
18C to 25C.
No dormant period is needed.

Water: Copious amounts of water are needed.
Do not dry between watering but make sure the mix is draining.

Fertilizing: 20-20-20 is okay year round.
Leach every fifth watering.
Fertilize half strength every watering.

Humidity: 70% or higher are preferred by this group.

Problems: Soggy stale mix will cause root loss.

Dendrobium lawesii, atroviolaceum, bullenianum, bractiosum, apertum, wentianum.
A unique group of mainly deciduous Dendrobiums found on the Fiji Islands and New Guinea that have canes descending from the crown of the plant. These orchids have nectaries that are basically sealed from insects with a springy lip that closes over the pollinia and nectar reserves. Birds are the sole pollinators of this group of Dendrobiums. The "type' Dendrobium on this group is D. lawesii or the Christmas Bell orchid as it flowers at Christmas time. All the orchids in this group produce clusters of flowers from the dormant canes that may last for months. They are easy to grow if you can handle a mounted plant and provide the cool conditions necessary.

Potting: mount on cork only

Light: low to medium light levels.
Masdevallia type conditions.

Temperature: Cool growing year round.
10C to 15C.

Water: Give plenty of moisture during the growing of the new canes.
Dry thoroughly for two to three months prior to flower buds forming.

Fertilizing: Light feeding during cane growth, do not feed during the dry period.

Humidity: Higher levels during the winter, as this is the only moisture they will get.

Dendrobium nobile.
This lone species has hundreds of color forms and hybrids that make up this group of orchids. Brilliant long lasting flowers are formed on the mature canes in-groups of two or three after the dormant period, usually in January. A difficult orchid to grow because of its demanding cultural requirements but well worth the effort if you can match the conditions. These orchids are found at elevations of 1500m. in India, China, and Thailand. D. nobile is probably the most cultivated of all Dendrobiums because of its huge diversity of colored forms.

Potting: well-drained mix of bark, lite-rock, charcoal.
Worth trying in a sphagnum and sponge-rock mix
Clay pots would be desirable as they are more stable than plastic.

Light: High light is necessary year round.

Temperature: Intermediate to cool March to August.
Cool temperatures August till March.

Water: Evenly moist during flowering and new growth.
DO NOT water during dormancy.
NOT AT ALL till the buds are visible.
Leaves will turn yellow and drop off the plant. At this point the plant will start bud growth.
Keikis will grow instead of flowers if too much water is added.

Fertilizing: 20-20-20 during the growth period.
7-11-27 as soon as the flower buds appear until the new canes start.

Humidity: Not critical on these orchids.

Problems: Getting them to flower.
High light is critical.
Cold and dry during dormancy.

Dendrobium loddigesii, pierardii, primulinum.
This delicate group of pendulous orchids is native to Laos and south China. They are deciduous with narrow pseudobulbs and delicate pink flowers with fimbriated lips. Flowering occurs in the spring after a dormant dry period. Because of this dormant period the plants look almost dead just prior to the bud formation. Careless watering during dormancy will in fact cause serious root problems or extensive keiki growth instead of flowers.

Potting: This group of orchids prefers to be mounted.

Light: High light is required during the pseudobulb growth.
Filtered light during flowering and dormancy.

Temperature: New growth period can be 15C to 18C.
Dormancy should be only 10C to 15C.

Water: As with other dormant requiring Dendrobiums, reduction of watering is necessary.
Water only enough to keep the pseudobulbs from withering.
Growing period requires water daily if mounted.

Fertilizing: Fertilize with 20-20-20 during pseudobulb growth.
As soon as the buds are visible use 7-11-27.

Humidity: high humidity during dormancy as this is the only water they will receive.

Problems: Excessive Keiki growth resulting from over watering during the winter.
Root rot, not enough drainage.

Dendrobiums as you can see are a very diverse genus with untold combinations of watering needs, dormancy requirements and flower inflorescence initiation. The best advice to successfully grow these orchids is to become familiar with their indigenous habitat.

Gordon Heaps, Gordon Heaps Horticultural Services

WOH. that's a lot of info to process (and probably a bit too complicated for me!) LOL.

But thanks!

Hi Debbie -
I suspect that once a person starts getting into the dendrobium species, it all starts to kind of line up.
There are a lot of dendrobium hybrids available, which are much less particular about culture than the species. In addition, the hybrids can succeed and bloom under a pretty broad spectrum of light, temperature, humidity, and moisture.
The species are so much more interesting, though! One of the first blooming orchids that, literally, took my breath away was a fairly large specimen of Dendrobium farmerii - a dozen arching inflorescences, each with numerous small yellow/pink flowers; a beautiful plant and just spectacular in bloom. So this year, my (3-4 years old) seedling finally reached blooming size - no less breathtaking!
The flowers are short-lived (about a week) but that still trumps stanhopeas!
One of my first orchids was a deciduous dendrobium - bought in bloom, grew like a weed all spring, summer, fall - then all the leaves fell off, so I chucked it in the trash. Thought it was a 'failure'. These lose their leaves right before growing buds, so live and learn.
Regards - Nancy

That is a lot of info actually and looks pretty good.

I noticed that the range says that Den's range is down to NE Australia. There are species that do go further south than that but overall just follow that post.

I grow kingianum hybrids outside all year round and the temps range from 34F (1C) to about 110F (43C) and they cope really well.

I've read that Den. kingianum can tolerate temperatures well below freezing (down into the mid-20's) for several hours without damage. However, I'm not about to try out that theory!
Outstanding plant, though - and nobody ever seems to mention the wonderful scent.
Regards - Nancy

Pretty extensive notes that just show hard it is to devise a set of culture notes that are suitable for all growing conditions.

Dendrobium Delicatum described in the notes as a species is a hybrid that occurs in nature.

Some of the orchids described as coming from New Guinea also are found in NE Australia where they may grow in different conditions to those described in the notes.

Distribution might more generally be described as the east coast of Australia.

Den. kingianum can tolerate low temperatures. But the places where it occurs in nature are not frost hollows but tend to be elevated. Is is 6C in my shade-house down the backyard at the moment.

It might be 6C at the moment, but in the coming day the sun will shine and the temperature will lift.

I can't believe how fast the Kingianum multiply. A friend gave me 6 shoots in January. I have keikis sprouting now on the tops of the shoots, and more new growth coming up from the pot. One of the keiki's is forming a new growth at the base.

Two comments on tee530's post:
As Arthur said, delicatum is a hybrid between kingianum and speciosum var hilli (tarberi). I don't think confining kingianum to some type of monotypic horticultural group is particularly appropriate, especially given that speciosums are becoming more prevalent in the States. Most of the species that have been proposed as Thelychiton and their hybrids will grow under similar conditions as kingianum.
I'm also not sure why bigibbum and phalaenopsis are in separate groups when Kew considers Dendrobium phalaenopsis a synonym of bigibbum.

Bolero,
Given the monocot checklist still lists Dockrillia as Dendrobiums the range extends down into Tasmania!

I didn't want to be too picky with what was a brave attempt to put all that cultural information into such a compact form.

But i think it is peculiar Dendrobium kingianum was given such a status and other Australian Dendrobiums were ignored.

I am hoping that we can forget about Thelychiton and the like and avoid the disaster that is there in the Laeliinae alliance where Kew accepted all those changes that might be fine for Science but are just going to confuse us humble orchid growers. The hybrid register has no need for those changes.

great thread and thanks for the info. i have found dens to be confusing and all this info explains it. I have a hard time growing even the ones which are supposed to be easy!!
sue

Ah, nothing like the dendrobes for bringing the Australians out of the woodwork :-) Nice discussion.

I'm not sure how much the info I dumped above follows the currently accepted dendrobium section divisions, as pointed out above. IIRC, D. kingianum belongs to the dendrocoryne section, and it certainly isn't alone there! To see a more conventional (and extensive!) listing of dendrobe species and their sections, see the link below.

I think Gordon Heaps (whoever he is/was) was valiantly trying to capture common cultural themes and ended up with rather esoteric divisions.

The more common and simplistic presentation you see in orchid manuals and such is a breakdown into 4 main cultural groups (1: evergreen, warm and moist year round; 2: deciduous, warm and moist followed by cool and dry in winter; 3: cool and moist year round; 4: evergreen, intermediate and moist followed by cool and somewhat dry in winter) represented by D. phalaenopsis, D. nobile, D. cuthbertsonii, and D. kingianum, respectively.

As pointed out above, though, there are really too many individual species in Dendrobium to safely generally. Fanatics will get the Wood book or the Lavarack et al book and look up the species in question, and check the native habitat for temps, rain, light, and humidity.

Arthur,
I typed and deleted Thelychiton several times before committing to writing it in that post. I would have put Dendrocoryne but the tetragonums do better with slightly different culture techniques than kingies. Interestingly the Council of Heads of Australian Herbaria have accepted Thelychiton. Of course, don't hold your breath waiting for Kew to make the change.

Debbie,

There's another culture sheet put out by the Five Cities Orchid Society and AOS. At the link below, click on "Dendrobium."

For those in Australia, there's a sheet linked on the same page for "Australian Dendrobiums & Sarcochilus," paraphrased from Down Under Native Orchids.

Both are in pdf format.

Last fall, I did a crash course on the types of new Dens in my collection and their winter requirements. If you're interested, I can post links for more of the info available at the time. Looking at multiple sources was helpful for adding species to the various groups. However, you may want the basics at this point.

The 19 Dens made it through the winter just fine. Although all haven't bloomed in my care yet, they haven't died. :)

Have fun! Whitecat8

Unless I missed it, this entire thread failed to give Dendrobium speciosum its proper prominent place. I know D Delicatum was discussed but as extensive a review of Dends this is, D speciosum has to be mentioned. To some it is "The King of Orchids", others have said that if hybredizers continued developing orchids for another 50 years they might develop something as grand and beautiful as a prime D speciosum. The Aussies affectionately call them "Rock Lilies". I have a big one which when in bloom with 16 spikes, 50 to 75 flowers on each spike is breathtaking. Other than taking my breath away when in bloom, I give it very little attention, it loves the climate in SOCAL, gets water and fertilizer and just motors along. Its mounted on a huge root stump where its grown since 2,000 so I dont have to repot it or anything else. It is my favorite orchid. Actually D cuthbersonii is my truly favorite orchid but I pretend not to think about that one because its a colossal pain in the butt. I think being a polygamist with a dozen wifes must be something like looking after a bunch of D cutherbersonii. I have a dozen D speciosums instead and life is good.

Nick

Nick that was kind of my point. While there are a few species specific quirks, culture of kingianum, speciosum, gracilicaule, falcorostrum etc is similar enough that with a few exceptions, Dendrocoryne can essentially be treated together when broadly speaking of culture. Indeed the Dendrocoryne hybrids, which are usually made up of high proportions of kingianum and/or speciosum, are pretty uniform in terms of cultural requirements.

Whew !! You people really keep up with the specifics !! I admire that !! I'm NOT a fanatic but a good friend gave me THE "Dendrobium and its relatives" "Lavarack et all" book and I NEVER get tired of reading it cover to cover !!! YES, I guess I REALLY AM a Dendrobium freak !! I am just awed by them !! Every time I turn around I buy another !! They are keeping me in a constant state of fascination and education !! Most recently my antennatum, laevifolium, Aussie Chip (aberrans x atroviolaceum 'Pygmy'), and two kingianum hybrids !!!

Three cheers for Dendrobiums !!!
Chryss

They can be like a member of the opposite sex (If you are a Republican, any sex if a Democrat). Attractive, but don't let them rule your life, they can become addicting.

I must admit that I am somewhat addicted to native Au Dendrobiums which are hard to come by in the US. Good ones that is. The best you can get in the line of Kingianums for example is 'Pink' or 'red' and that's as far as the description often goes. Like anything else there are awarded ones with fantastic colors available in Australia, same with Delicatums. Most of my friends in my Orchid Society know that a D Delicatum is a cross between a D speciosum and a D kingianum but that's as far as it goes. Obviously a Deli with D speciosum 'Daylight Moon' FCC and D kingianum 'Black Beauty' for parents has a better chance of being an outstanding plant. These are two famous Aussie clones.

For the benefit of the US readers let me dispel the belief that these plants are difficult to come by. Just like ordering plants from any American vendor, you can fill your shopping cart at Australian vendors like Australian Native Orchids, Cedarvale or Down Under Native Orchids to name just three, pay for it with Pay Pal or credit card and expect the plants at your doorsteps within 10 days. They take care of all the import paper work. Good sized seedlings are no more than $10.00 add 10% to 20% for transportation and bingo you have 'PRIME' Au Dendrobiums. Very few of my orchid friends know how easy and painless it is. I just unpacked 17 good sized seedlings with primo parents from ANO, average cost per plant, including transportation, was $11. What I like about ANO is that they have good photos of the plants on their web page so even if you only have a superficial knowledge about these plants, at least pictures give you an idea what you are getting. Give it a try.

Nick

Nick,
Actually they DO rule my life, a priviledge I'll never grant the opposite sex again !! You noticed the trend before I did even without all the data. All my last additions are AU Dens !! Including, Nora Tokunaga (3), Roy Tokunaga (2), laevifolium, antennatum, Aussie Chip, Andree Millar, atroviolaceum 'Pygmy', kingianum 'Voodoo' x kingianum 'Pinatubo' (2), and kingianum. Counting these I have a total of 44 Dens, 30 Phals, 28 Catts, and 34 others. So you can see which way I lean !!! ;~)

Chryss

Nick, what kind of medium do you have your Kingianums in and, can you recommend a few of interesting color and fragrance? I'll look up the websites of the three orchid growers you named.
Thanks,
Helga.

Most of my Au Dendrobiums are mounted, branch, wooden basket or bark so there is no growth medium as they grow bare root. The few I have in pots are in rock, I don't like repotting because of deteriorating bark. I use large gravel, 3/4" crushed granite or Aussie Gold which is more expensive but very nice. If the rocks are too small, they compact and the plants can't breathe.

On the colorful Kingis go to the site of Australian Orchid Nursery, I gave you the wrong name, its not Australian Native Orchids, its Australian Orchid Nursery. Bounce around their website looking for not only Kingianums but Delicatums and Australian mixes like 'Australian Rhubarb', 'Australian Artist' etc. You can also get a good look at their stuff by going to Ebay, start out by typing in Dendrobium speciosum, 4 plants come up, click on one of them until you find an Australian Orchid Nursery plant and then go to 'View sellers other items'. Right now they have about 80 odd plants on Ebay. A good example of what's available. The other 2 nurseries I mentioned don't have posted photos so go to AON or to Ebay and you'll see what I'm talking about. Buying them is no different than bidding on American Orchid Nursery offerings. If you do buy something from them read their disclaimer. Not all of their boxes make it through US customs, 98% do. Especially in California where our Ag dept is feverishly looking for any foreign bugs etc, the slightest suspicion that the plants have insects or whatever throws them into quarantine and you get dead plants 6 weeks later. So far so good for me,I have had no problem and the positive rating for that nursery is either 100% or just under.

Nick

Dens are endlessly fascinating to me. Of my 95 plants, 19 are Dens, including aberrans, atroviolaceum, ceralua, draconis, Green Lantern (Dawn Maree x cruentum), Himezakura 'Sanokku' (a Yamamoto Den), laevifolium, loddigesii, Mini-Snowflake (Den. aberrans x Den. johnsoniae), sulcatum, unicum, and 8 Den moniliformes.

I'd have more, but there's little space in the living room for plants that need slightly cooler temps, as some of them do.

Debbie, the first year w/ Dens, I watered everything through the winter, knowing nothing about which needed dry winter rests, slightly drier winter rests, etc. and missed out on a lot of blooms the next spring.

Last fall, I obsessed, trying to get the different schedules and conditions right. A couple haven't rebloomed, but at least they had the right winter environment.

In case they appeal to you, the Yamamoto Dens are very user-friendly, and many of the growers carry them. On my Den Himezakura 'Sanokku' the 9 flowers on one cane bloomed from 12/30/07 - 5/18/08. 12 flowers on the 2nd cane started blooming in early April and look as good today as they did then. They have a lovely, light fragrance, and supposedly, the plant will stay 10"-12" high:

{{gwi:168940}}

Hope this is helpful.

Whitecat8

Some posts above Dendrobium tetragonum got a mention it being in a different section from Den. kingianum.
Here is the result of crossing D. speciosum and D. tetragonum. The purists will shudder. It is eeek! a hybrid. But the crossing has added colour and you not have to wait forever for the plant to bloom.
{{gwi:168941}}