Recommendations for ridding one's soil of blight spores
anney
14 years ago
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Kimmsr
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
How To Get Rid Of Fungus Spores
Comments (14)To back up what you added JJJFrisco, I found this: "Researchers in Brazil were cited as saying that milk has the makings of an ideal fungicide for protecting organically grown cucumbers and other vegetables. It attacks a mould known as powdery mildew, which is a major problem for organic farmers scrambling to meet the growing demand for chemical-free vegetables. The mould, Sphaerotheca fuliginea, appears as a powdery white growth on the leaves of cucumbers and courgettes (zucchini). It damages the plants by causing the leaves to shrivel up. At present, only chemical fungicides are available. Milk's fungicidal powers were discovered by Wagner Bettiol of the environmental laboratory of Embrapa, the Brazilian Agricultural Research Corporation, in Jaguariuna, north of Sao Paulo. Bettiol, who was looking for cheap ways to control plant pests, observed that byproducts from milk-processing factories killed powdery mildew on courgettes. So he decided to simply spray fresh milk on the plants to see if it had the same effect. To his surprise, he found that it did. In fact, spraying heavily infected plants twice a week with a mixture of one part cow's milk to nine parts water was at least as good at stopping mildew as the chemical fungicides fenarimol and benomyl, Bettiol discovered. In many cases, milk was both faster and more effective. After two to three weeks of spraying with milk, the area of leaves infected was in some cases only a sixth or less of the area affected on plants treated with chemical fungicide." I wonder is spraying 100% milk would have the same effects....See MoreHow do I get rid of Blueberry Blossom Blight?
Comments (6)There are a limited number of fungicides registered for this pathogen - look for ones that have captan, fenhexamid, cyprodinil, fludioxonil or pyraclostrobinas active ingredients. This pathogen is also very adaptable to fungicide resistance so a rotation of various fungicides should be employed. And make sure you have identified the correct pathogen. Blossom blight and mummy berry can have a similar appearance/early symptoms yet respond to different fungicides. Some of the products that are used to control mummy berry can actually increase the incidence of Botrytis cinerea, blossom blight. 'Organic' fungicides are also very limited, more so now that lime sulphur has been removed from the market. You could try copper sulphate or neem oil, as both have some efficacy with botrytis. Or a biofungicide, Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713, sold under the trade name of Serenade. But these products will not have the same degree of control or equal effectiveness as a synthesized fungicide would....See Morekilling blight spores
Comments (6)EB also comes in on wind and rain. Solarizing the soil might help a bit, but it's a pretty scorched-earth thing to do for something that may not help at all. Solarizing will also harm beneficial organisms in the soil. The best thing to do is mulch plants well to keep soil from splashing up onto the foliage and prune off the foliage that is low to the ground. If you have access to good compost, put down a thick layer on top of your soil under the mulch. If you have a recurrent problem with EB, spray fungicide on a regular schedule from the day you plant out to prevent and delay disease. There are many options, conventional, organic, and biological. If you are vigilant for the very first signs of disease, take preventive cultural measures, and apply fungicide regularly, EB, if it does arrive, is typically very slow moving, manageable, and won't reduce yield much....See MoreRemoved top inch or so of soil from hosta with Southern Blight.
Comments (3)This is a gorgeous Rainbow's End specimen. I never saw one so big as this one before the blight struck. The "goo", as you call it, cost less than this hosta, AND it is concentrated, so you get quite a lot of solution from this bottle. What if any surrounding hostas also get infected? Then I am ready. I think that you forget I have a small garden in front of my co-op building, that I dug out by hand from the crummy contractor fill by hours of back breaking work. And, I've had to battle the micromanaging co-op manager and the sleazy "landscape workers" destroying items in my garden, ignorant neighbors who have placed 99 cent store kitsch items in the garden, and ignorant neighbors who attempted to use my garden as an ash tray and/or a place to hide soda bottles until they redeem them. THEY are GONE, but the garden is still here. I don't have a big suburban lawn where I can plant dozens or hundreds of hostas. Each one is my "baby" in my limited space, and each one is oohed and aahed by the whole block. So yes, I will go to great lengths to save this beautiful hosta and prevent others from succumbing. Now, my original question, Ken: should I put some new soil from a fresh bag of it over the baby hosta shoots I uncovered, or leave it excavated? There is one thin root which was exposed, right at the surface. Thank you....See Moreanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoericwi
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14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoKimmsr
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agopagardner
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agonandina
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoKimmsr
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agopagardner
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agojajm4
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoanney
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13 years agolast modified: 9 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
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11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoMokinu
8 years ago
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