First: Set the gap between the flywheel magnets and the coil legs, by using a strip of birthday or greeting card, long enough to fit under both coil legs, and against the magnetic part of the flywheel. Before you set the gap, make sure the ends of the coil legs and the magnets are free of rust. Then, bolt the coil on, with it pulled back from the magnets. Tighten them enough to hold it back. Then turn the flywheel until the magnets are spaced evenly under the coil legs. then, loosen the coil bolts and allow the coil to slide in against the flywheel. Tighten the bolts, (Don't break them off! Yer sunk if ya do!) snugly, then turn the flywheel allowing the strip to slide out. I'm assuming that you cleaned all of the rust off the flywheel and coil before doing this!?! And, what other parts did you take out? And, did you remove the seat switch, or he pedal switch on the brake? Or the wire from the alternator? If you did remove any of them--yer still sunk! might i suggest either professional help, or a more detailed description of just what all you did! We're glad to help a person, but if that person just started chopping out wires-willy-nilly, well, yer gonna have trouble!

What's the 917.xxxxxx number? Craftsman schematics can vary, so being able to look at the correct schematic is nearly priceless. A "typical" Craftsman cranking circuit utilizes a WHITE wire from the key switch S terminal, through the brake/clutch swith and then the PTO/attachment switch to the starter solenoid. You can disconnect the latter 2 switches (1 at a time) and jumper the White Wires together, to bypass that switch for troubleshooting. You might also try jumping 12V direct to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The engine should crank. You are pushing in the clutch pedal???

rcbe 6 - I'll check for that PTO seizure in the morning. That's a interesting possibility. Something is definitely creating a heavy drag when attempting to start. I charged the battery overnight, then cranked the engine without the spark plug in, it cranked and spun very freely. When I reinstalled the plug, cranking effort changed to very, very sluggish, barely at all. Maybe it is trying to drive everything at once? Also, I found five of the 10mm head bolts that run just below the the flywheel had apparently vibrated loose, one to the point that it was standing high enough to contact the underside of the flywheel, so I retightened them. Will advise what I find.

Thanks for the response Don. The start capacitor looked okay. I wasn't really sure what to look for, but all four wires were connected tightly. After further tinkering I think the problem is that the shaft coming out of motor with the worm drive on it does not turn freely. I have a similar unit on my other garage door and it turns very easily. Any thoughts? Possible that the shaft is bent??