I don't know of any other mower that has a fully open diff like the Snappers. All the others will ratchet forward but not backwards when the drive system is engaged. That's why they maintain 2-wheel-drive on hills, which is helpful there. But the downside is that they don't allow as good maneuverability with the drive engaged, because a sharp turn requires that the operator actually push forward (increase the groundspeed) to make the outside wheel ratchet faster, while the inside wheel continues at the drive system's gear-driven groundspeed. That's a list of pros/cons for each system that must be weighed for each person's particular yard and needs. Unfortunately, there's no cost-effective way to have the best of both. I've been a Snapper user all my life, and moved to a house with a significant hill in the back about 1.5 years ago. I've actually been surprised so far that I can mow across the grade and it keeps driving pretty well. I was worried about this potential traction problem. However, my turf is not very bumpy, and this may be the big difference between the OP's and my results.

Walt I am the one that bought the snapper. the model number is 30083s. Most websites I have been to to lookup parts says that this particular mower may have come with an 8 hp engine. This snapper I got for 100 bucks and I posted another article on this forum on June 16, 2009. It was in relation to the single circuit wire and the dual circuit wiring. the dual circuit after testing with a tester turned out to be faulty. The single circuit came from a 12hp Murray riding lawn mower. The fly wheel came from the murray as well. The original flywheel on the snapper had plastic teeth and there were spots in it that were bad. After measuring and talking with a mechanic from a lwan mower repair shop, it was ok to use the 12 hp flywheel and single circuit. The engine runs fine and charges the battery now. The single circuit wire runs to the push button and that connects to the positive wire that runs to the battery. Everything looks good so far. The snapper is easy to start and sometimes when cold don't even need the choke. The starter is old and has been in out in the weather some. The whole lawn mower was sitting outside a lawn mower repair shop for about a month or so. The lady who was selling it and ran the shop, didn't know anything about it. She was asking 100 and I offered 80 and she turned it down. She said she had to have 100 for it. In hindsight I probably could have gotten it from someone else for a little less than 100 bucks. Everything works on it and even the old gas that was in it worked with a little fuel treatment. The battery is 5 years old or so and it still holds a charge when put on the charger. The deck on it is not adjustable in the sense of adjusting it like on a 42inch lawn mower. It does have handlebars to steer it with. If you go to www.snapper.com and look up manuals and then type in 30083s it will show a list of manuals you can look at. Pick either one of the parts manuals and it shows pictures of what I have. It does show some examples of either a 10 or 11 hp engine, but not 11.5. Must be a newer engine than what came on the snapper originally. Still when taking into account what someone was trying to do to it to get it running before I got it, not a bad deal overall. The wiring to the push button start was actually hooked up backwards and that meant that the starter would always be running with the engine running. That might explain some of the teeth on the old flywheel being gone. The only thing I do now is turn the key to the on position and mash the button and it starts right up. There are tubes in the front tires and one front wheel actually has wheel bearsing where the other one doesn't. Howver, it doesn't affect the steering any. The drive tires has many cracks and a few plugs and it does leek air if sitting for a few days. May have to replace later on. Only put 8 dollars into it. I spent a majority of the 8 dollars on the oil and the rest on a few nuts and bolts for the blade. My dad wants me to flip it which means to sell it quickly for 250 or so and get something a little newer. The only problem is, most people around where I live that are selling lawn mowers are wanting a pretty penny for junk. I almost spent 150 on a massey ferguson that would have needed a lot of work. It had a tecumseh engine on it and it was the pull start type. The tecumseh engine was missing parts and the deck needed to be oiled and greased to be able to lower and raise it. The blades were drive with an axle typ drive that went the width of the deck and had a gear in a cover that spun the blades. The transmission belt looked good but the back part of the body was rotted with rust and needed brackets to hold the seat and body onto the frame. The tires were good and up, but there was more that had to be done. It did have the typical 3 or 4 speed tractor like shift to it. I was going to ask the man if he would take less and thought differently and left. He had many lawn mowers including some john deere rear enging riders that needed work and he was asking alot of money for them. I may try to sell mine in a few weeks after I have used it for a little while and make sure it won't breakdown on someone. Thanks for the information you have given us Walt.

Thanks, all! LMD, do you have personal experience with the mower or is it based purely on the specs? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the drive system not being able to propel a mower this size. Meaning excessive wear and greater frequency of problems, I assume? I'm not looking to use this comercially, just for my own yard. I've used and owned Snappers for about 15 years and know my way aound the mechanics pretty well, but I hadn't come across this model... perhaps, as you note, because of it's potential limitations. It seems odd, though, that Snapper would throw this much into a mower with as potentially obvious a flaw as you are describing. What problems do you forsee with the drive system? One thing I do know is that the disc systems aren't exactly the same... I've worked with some recent 21" drive sytems, and just based on the schematics I've seen of the one on this mower - there are differences in the components, specifically the assembly. How substantial they are, I'm not sure. That said, the dealer I'm working with is very reputable and a big Snapper shop. I've had nothing but positive advice from them in the past. I don't want to pass up a good deal if, in fact, it is a good one, of course... Anyone actually used one?

Wapsiguy - another major factor is the "terrain" of your yard. Sharp inclines (>15 degrees), berms, number of obstacles and their concentration (trees, shrubs, flower gardens, etc.) A relatively flat yard, few obstacles and the Snapper RER )if in good condition) will do nicely. Lots of obstacles - would look for a small residential zero turn mower. Sharp inclines/berms - invest money in either low maintenance ground cover or re-landscaping first before investing in riding mower/tractor. JMHO... But, I do concur with Mownie in his assessment of the Snapper RER's - tough and dependable, given normal care.