Yowzaa! I don't know if this is the year of bad weeds or the year of good photography!! First of all 5 hours is good for an oscillator. Mine takes 8 hours to get an inch. 1/8 inch per hour. Secondly, here is the consolidated wisdom of the ages on this forum: don't ever use weed-n-feed. You will not get the results you expect to get. It has such an appealing name and the concept is great, but the chemicals used just can't deliver. The problem is that weeds die best when they are the healthiest and sucking in all the soil has to offer. When you apply wnf, you get an immediate weed killing effect and a delayed fertilizer effect. By the time the fertilizer kicks in on the weeds, the herbicide is long gone. It is the worst of both worlds. It is much better to use a real fertilizer (but not in this heat) followed 2 weeks later by a real herbicide (but not in this heat). Your real problem now is you have grassy weeds. You cannot selectively kill grasses in among your real grass. Do you still have the bag of grass seed you used? I suspect it had a relatively high weed seed content. That's not necessarily so, but with the mix you have it is a good possibility. Really good grass seed is expensive. This is your hobby so you have to decide. The good news is that your coarse bladed weeds are crabgrass. Crabgrass is a hot season annual grass. It will die completely in the fall. Furthermore it will not come back in the spring except by new seed sprouting. Bad news there is you have puh-lenty of new seed. But the good news is you also have Kentucky bluegrass in your mix. Your job this fall is to get as much KBG spreading as you possibly can. If you can get 100% coverage with KBG and keep it mowed up to 3 inches, then you have an excellent shot at a weed free lawn all next season with minimal attention. Also, NEVER SEED IN THE SPRING OR SUMMER, unless you absolutely have no alternative. Your lawn is really not that unusual for a spring seeded lawn. We try to tell people this year after year but some still slip through. There should be a law against selling grass seed before late August. If you decide to do some thing really drastic like redo this lawn, my observation is that the soil level is higher than the bottom of the house. It is hard to see because of the shadow so it might be an illusion. If that is the case, then before you start a renovation on this lawn, soil should be removed, not brought in. This would normally be a job for a landscaper but you live in WV. You guys are animals and may prefer to do it yourself. All water should drain away from the buildings no matter what. If you develop a puddle next to the house when it rains, that is a serious problem. Any soil can be improved from the surface without plowing or rototilling, so when I see someone bringing in new topsoil, I start looking for known issues. Keep the water on it if you can. Let it grow up to 4 or even 5 inches before mowing. Summer heat is enough stress. Mowing it short causes much more stress. Wait until it cools off to the low 80s before mowing it back to 3 inches. It will be stressed but should be okay since the temps are cooler. If you cannot resist the temptation to do something good for the grass, then use organic fertilizer. You can get it cheap in the form of Purina Rabbit Chow at the feed store. Apply at 20 pound per 1,000 square feet every 3-4 weeks and you will be surprised how good it looks. Oh I can't resist the urge. Here is mrmumbles alfalfa test in his zoysia lawn from June this year. This shows what to expect from alfalfa pellets.

From what I understand, zoysia is just a fancy bermuda grass. goodbye gardens and flower beds! there is a chemical now thats supposed to kill it, but roundup wont touch it. good luck, i've battled bermuda for 40 years--its winning.

I finally got rid of it by pulling up every sprig early in the year. Now there is just an occasionally plant from seeds that the wind blows in from the neighbors. As an experiement I tried Grass-B-Gone by very carefully dripping it ONLY on the foliage. It killed it, but it also killed a little circle of St. Augustine grass around it. Seems it goes into the roots and transfers to the roots of other grasses around it. Grass-B-Gone does not harm broad leaf plants. Since it is an annual it will die back with hot weather, but it has shaded desirable grasses and somewhat impeded their growth by then. The best solution is digging it AND applying pre-emergent weed killer at the recommended times next year. Not positive, but I think that would be in Feb..

As the fescues die, the KBG would spread in, but that can take a tremendous amount of time and requires excellent treatment of the KBG (which involves more nitrogen and water than the fescue does). During that period--years at least--you'll notice a color and growth difference as Midnight is a slower-growing grass. We also don't generally recommend using just one cultivar of KBG to avoid a monoculture and a free and easy spread for any disease that the grass is susceptible to. So there's that. My own lawn is Midnight II, Moonlight, Bedazzled, and Prosperity. But that's another story. So overall, if you want KBG, we do generally recommend renovating the entire lawn with KBG. However, if you want to do that section as a trial and see if you like it, then do the rest next year or the year after, that's certainly fine. You may discover that it spreads better than I said it would and you don't have to, or that the differences between them don't bother you.