I had Eden once upon a time, before I knew anything about roses. I pulled it out because I was too impatient and didn't realize roses needed to settle in a year or so before you can expect a show. I used to move roses every year, shame on me! I do know that chamblees carries Anne Boleyn. It's an online vendor I have used and love. They send very healthy own root roses , often with more than one plant in a pot so you can separate them and get more out of them. I don't think you'll find a better price locally for David Austin's ! And my observation, which is only what I have noticed, is that the local places here do not get such variety in David Austin's. I sometimes email nurseries to see if they'll tell me what they are expecting or I'll ask for a variety in particular. Most are more than happy to respond! I have seen Eden sometimes at lowes and hd. I might give her another try if I stumble upon her. Not sure how much shade you are working with but, I have the fairy in a part sun area (am sun til 1) and it blooms like crazy for me and is fabulous. Also, hybrid musk roses are somewhat shade tolerant. I grow a few, not in shade tho. Buff beauty, one of my favorites, darlows enigma and ballerina, lavender lassie, Cornelia ,Danae and I think my bubble bath rose is a musk too. Maybe the hybrid musk catagory will interest you? Sorry if I babble too much! :)

pippi21 - what is the compass orientation of the affected bed & its sun exposure/shade cover? A number of perennials can survive the seasons in a container but there are others (i.e, lavender) that suffer from too much winter moisture such as snow and/or rain. I was a bit surprised but happy when WS Heuchera/coral bells, delphinium, Astilbe, Agastache, Alchemilla mollis/Lady's Mantle, Platycodon/balloon flower, Siberian iris & Spirea all came through the winter in gallon pots/larger containers on my breezeway. Phlox sublata/Creeping phlox is a spring-blooming perennial and as long as it gets moved in the fall when it isn't blooming or too stressed due to dry conditions, should transplant in good shape. That's only my own general understanding of perennials speaking--not the voice of experience since I don't particularly like creeping phlox. My spring preference is P. divaricata/woodland phlox which is just as lovely but blooms for a much longer period than P. sublata. Again, it's only my own observation & what I read in my perennial guide but Papaver orientale/oriental poppies grow from seeds, not bulbs, and spread via rhizomes/traveling roots in much the same way as Missouri evening primrose (whose botanical name escapes me at the moment). It's my understanding they're best moved when very young plants as they don't like to be disturbed. You may or may not already know this but laying down a layer (or two) of corrugated cardboard under your mulch will be a huge help in discouraging weeds. I've found the cardboard is free & readily available at my local grocery store, package store or else the recycle bin at the town landfill. A judicious application of ordinary vinegar at the edges early in the season tends to discourage most weeds.

Unfortunately if your going to have frost, then the buds will be toast. You can cut the stem and put it in a vase of water inside. If the buds are mature enough, they will open. I've done this before when threat of frost was predicted. I just cut about 10 scapes with buds today and brought them into our mudroom where it is warmer. We too are having predictions of frost Sunday night. Seems we are in for a real big cool down this weekend. I also just cut off a scape with seed pod on it to let it mature inside. The choice is yours as to what you want to do. Julia

My croton did best in a West window under normal room temps --- it got just a bit of sun there. I did take it outdoors during warm spells in winter and sprayed it down. But I think the secret to success is perhaps that I never moved it. It never went outdoors. This way they adapt to where they are. And I was able to keep it relatively bug-free. I'm sure if you brought it in from outdoors it would probably respond by dropping leaves AND you'll likely have bugs to contend with (spider mites) eventually. My advice is to move it to DEEP shade outdoors first, to get it used to lower light, then spray it down periodically to discourage spiders, etc. and treat with pesticides before you bring it in...the soil as well as leaves. You might consider a systemic or a miticide. Once indoors give it bright light and mist it occasionally.