Removing the infected leaves from the trees are TOTAL WASTE OF TIME. There are no significant difference if you remove them from the tree or not. I did not remove any infected leaves from the tree two winter seasons ago, and there was tremendous infection that year due to the constant rains. This year, out of several hundred thousand peach and nectarine leaves, I only spotted 5 of them that has the peach curl. And I did not spray! The simple reason is that it has been dry. But here's the thing that really helped out my tree when I had severe PLC infections last year. 1. Don't remove the leaves, TOTAL WASTE OF TIME, and it doesn't help the tree at all if you do it. Use your time to do other things instead like the ones that follow. 2. Come early summer when it is getting hot, and no more rains, apply loads of fertilizers, especially high in Nitrogen. And supplement with Epsom salts. Supply adequate irrigation. The idea here is to help your tree recover vigorously to replace the infected leaves which will fall off. The biggest mistake of homegrowers is not to fertilize their trees when they have PLC infections. The new vigorous leaves will not be infected in the drier months, and it will help your tree prepare much better for next year. 3. Let the infected leaves fall, but promptly remove all the leaves that fell down at most weekly, and cart them off into the streets for yard waste pick up by the city to be composted properly where those pathogens will surely die. 4. Around the fall season, always remove the fallen leaves before they decay. 5. Apply your first batch of PLC fungicide around thanksgiving. Spray also the fences and the soil and nearby trees where possible splashes from the rain could go into your trees. 6. Around Christmas day, be sure to remove all the leaves hanging on the trees if you still see some of them. remove also the mummified fruit trees. Then spray with the strongest fungicide that you have, like lime sulfur. 7. Around super bowl time after the holidays, when the buds are starting to swell, apply the last batch of PLC fungicide. 8. If you happen to have brown rot and twig blight, it might be good to spray diluted concentrations of copper on your blooms when it is rainy during the bloom time.

I would detroy the plants. Spider mites are hard to kill. Difficult but not impossible to get rid of. A really thorough spraying with a Neem oil spray will get nearly all of the mite population. [Look in the Organic section of the garden products for sprays that claim to be effective against mites, spider mites, or tomato russet mites. You'll probably have to check the ingredients for Neem oil.] First, remove and destroy all the leaves that are beyond saving. Spray under each remaining leaf -- that's where most of the mites will be found (spray the tops also). Spray in the evening or on a very cloudy day, as bright sun on the leaves (when the spray is still wet) will burn them. Spray again after the interval recommended in the instructions. I use Garden Safe's Fungicide 3; I buy the concentrate and mix my own. Some weeks back, I was surprised to see the concentrate at Walmart.

Your first picture is the only one that is close enough to really see anything so based on it I think it is most likely Septoria aka Septoria Leaf Spot. You can find all sorts of info available on it on the web including pictures to compare with your plants up close and personal. It is a fungus disease and is controlled (not cured) by spraying the plants with a good fungicide. Many brands are available - Daconil, Ortho Garden Disease Control, Fungonil, Serenade etc. But yes all the affected foliage needs to be removed, bagged and disposed of. But keep in mind that so far this is just a best guess based on very limited info. Need more info on ANY signs of any possible pests on the plants - whiteflies, aphids, etc. - and you need to examine them closely? Need to know how long the plants were unattended and if there were signs earlier on of problems as this doesn't develop overnight? Need to know what the weather was during that time as excess moisture, high humidity, cooler temps etc. encourages fungal diseases. I suspect some strong storms given all the broken branches I see. Do you overhead water with sprinklers? And need to know if you had any problems with defined diseases last year, especially Late Blight, in this same growing area? Meanwhile I would clean out all the affected foliage and begin a regular spraying program of a good fungicide as it will help even if this is bacterial as well as fungal. Hope this helps. Dave

Anney, I have just explored Dr. Dirt's site re using cornmeal as a plant fungicide. As usual he is giving incomplete advice. He takes ideas posted on GardenWeb and that other gardening Forum we can't mention here and gives them his own spin omitting important information. To date, after much experimentation, I have not had success controlling any tomato diseases/blights/fungus using cornmeal. Some have reported good results but I am not been able to. For those who would like to try a cornmeal tea do a search here on GW for Cornmeal Tea to find formulas I have posted. Also do a search for Aspirin Technique which has been my personal best, cheap remedy to date. Some claim it is not organic but to date aspirin has been certified safe for human consumption. The IMPORTANT part of attempting to control tomato problems with WHATEVER one chooses to use is to begin treatment EARLY in the tomato's growth...when the plant has grown a second set of true leaves is a good time to begin.