There is still a lot of misinformation out there regarding the benefits of coffee grounds in the garden. Like most other organic matter, the nutrient content is pretty low - NPK is typically assessed at 1.5-2.5 - .5 - .5. That's only 2.5% nitrogen at most, so its reported value as a "high nitrogen source" is bogus. And it is not particularly fast release or readily available - less than .1% (that's less than one tenth of one percent) of that is immediately available, the rest is tied up in the organic matter and must be digested by soil organisms before it can become available and be taken up by plants. And that takes time :-) And it is true that UCG's contain allelopathic properties that will affect the development and growth of some plants, especially seedlings. There's also a lot of conflicting information about the pH of UCG's - some literature will report they are highly acidic; others that they approach a neutral pH. The truth is actually somewhere in between, with a slightly acidic pH of around 6.0 to 6.3. As a mulch they do produce some negative qualities - because of the very small particle size they can form a rather dense, crusty surface that will repel water if allowed to dry out, much like peat moss or sawdust does if used as a mulch. If you do use them directly, scratch them into the soil surface to a depth of several inches rather than as a surface application or topdressing. I'd recommend their inclusion in to the compost or as a primary ingredient in vermicomposting before applying directly to the soil. They are a very good 'green' (C:N of 24:1) and the composting process will neutralize the acidity (if that is a concern) as well as any allelopathic properties. As to potential harm to dogs, I'd agree with gamekeeper (30+ years of gardening with dogs myself) and say that's pretty much a non-issue. Unless you've got some strange animal with a serious caffeine jones going on, dogs are just not attracted to UCG's. Now cocoa bean hulls are a different story :-) Here is a link that might be useful: The coffee grounds test results

MIxing the manure compost and the grounds sounds like a good way to prep beds and I wish I had thougt of it before ... but I have my beds done already and most everything is in. I am looking for an affordable way to keep feeding the soil and building up the nutrient contents around the plants. My garden is quite large and I would love to mulch everything with a land and sea compost ...but... it would cost so much. So I thought maybe used coffee grounds they're free and I still have some composted manure left over so I thought that maybe I could start by mixing the two of those together. Any other ideas on what I could use. I also thought about mixing in some crushed sea shells. I am not far from the ocean and I did notice a few slugs in the garden the other day so.... I am welcome and open to ideas that anyone has of fairly affordable to free organic material that I can use or mix in with the USG and composted manure. I have also considered lawn clippings. I am just not sure were I would get those yet. Karchita had mentioned that UCG are high in N....would that mean I may not want to use them on legumes? That may be a silly question but i know that legumes are Nitrogen fixing plants so would the USC be an over kill for them. again thanks for all the feed back!!!

Organic Weed Control Methods ~ Mulching What is Mulch?" Mulch is a protective covering (such as of bark chips, compost, or grass clippings) overlaid on the ground. Mulch reduces the moisture loss from the soil by preventing evaporation from sunshine and desiccating winds. Mulch prevents erosion by eliminating or reducing the "splash-away" effect of torrential downpours. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by shading it in the summer thus keeping it cooler and helps insulate it in the winter from chilling winds. This temperature regulating effect helps encourage the root growth of plants. Mulch helps to keep fruit clean (such as strawberries and tomatoes) by reducing muddy splash-ups during rainstorms. Mulch controls weed growth by smothering seedlings, prevents daylight which helps foster germination from reaching weed seeds, and prevents air-borne seeds from taking hold in the soil surface. Mulch helps prevent damage to trees and bushes by protecting their stems and surface roots from damage by mechanical garden tools such as weed whackers, edgers, and lawn mowers. Mulch helps prevent soil compaction by providing a cushion to walk upon. Walking on bare soil will compact it reducing its aeration and ability to drain. Mulch provides a more unified and tidy appearance to flower beds and borders. Mulch helps reduce yardwaste disposal and cash outlay. If you utilize your own yard wastes by chipping pruned branches and limbs, make your own compost, or use grass clippings and raked fallen leaves for mulch you won't have to bag and haul them to the curb for collection or pay for their disposal, you won't utilize land-fill space, and you'll keep your wallet in your pocket because the mulch you create is free. Mulch enriches the soil as it breaks down and releases nutrients back into the ground. Mulch, if not already decomposed, will encourage microbial organisms which are beneficial to healthy plants. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ "What are some common mulches?" Chipped hardwood bark mulch: Is readily available for home-owners from township landfills. It is made from ground and/or chipped trees. It is often free or available at a low cost. The downside of chipped bark mulch from municipalities is that it may contain bark from diseased trees. Compost it for a year before using it in your garden. Before you apply the aged bark mulch topdress your garden soil with fertilizers high in nitrogen such as blood-meal, cottonseed-meal, manure, or guano. Softwood bark mulch: Made from pine, fir, or redwood, is available in many different sizes. It is long lasting and excellent for use in foundation plantings. Compost: Is an excellent mulch that you can make at home by composting various yardwastes such as leaves, grass clippings, plants and soft-wood bush prunings, coffee grounds, and non-animal kitchen wastes. Partially decomposed composted material is one of the most nutrient rich mulches you can use. As it breaks down it releases nutrients into the soil. Crushed Corncobs: Regionally available inexpensive mulch. It is generally available as a dyed or natural product. Corncob mulch is a cushioning mulch and is often used in playgrounds. Hay: Often used in rural and farm gardens because it is more likely to be available at the least expensive cost. The use of aged bales may reduce the weed content. Apply hay mulch after the ground has warmed to discourage mice and voles from tunneling under it. Spent Hops: Available from breweries. Can be a bit "whiffy" after application but the scent will dissipate after a few weeks. Buckwheat Hulls: Buckwheat hull mulch is fluffy and is excellent for use around perennials and annuals. Cocoa-bean Hulls: Cocoa-bean hull mulch is a rich brown color and smells like chocolate-heaven (yumyum!). Apply it in a thin layer as it can otherwise become slimy or moldy. If applied at greater than a three inch depth you may wish to occasionally rake it to stir the hulls about, thus reducing the dampness which fosters the mold. Peanut Hulls: Peanut hull mulch is available from garden centers near peanut growers and processors. As it breaks down it provides some nitrogen to the soil. Lawn Clippings: Grass clippings are best used after they've been allowed to dry. If applied while they're fresh they can compact and generate heat while decomposing. They can produce strong odors the first week or two of decomposition but the scent will subside after that. It is not recommended to use grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. Leafmold: This mulch is available from most municipal composting facilities or you can make your own. Autumn gathered leaves left to decompose over winter will provide you with leafmold ready for use the following spring. Fallen Leaves: The least expensive form of mulch available. It is readily available in Autumn near woody areas. Fallen leaves may be used as is, chopped with the lawn mower to reduce their size, or compost them during winter and use them as leafmold the following spring. Manure: Available as a bagged commercially composted product at garden centers, or available fresh from stables and farms. Fresh manure should be composted for at least six months to reduce nitrogen burn when applied around plants and to reduce the viability of weed seeds in the manure itself. Mushroom soil/compost: Is available at garden centers or sources near commercial mushroom growers. It is generally inexpensive. Peat Moss: A commonly used mulch, it is attractive when applied thickly. Look for course-grade peat moss when using it for a mulch. It can be cost prohibitive when used for mulching large areas. Peat moss will shed water when it's dry rather than absorbing it. You can help maintain it's moisture by watering this mulch regularly when you also water your lawn. Pine Needles: Are a light colored, fluffy, and pretty mulch. Leave them in place under pine trees rather than removing them. Rake them from your lawn grass and use them to mulch around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, blueberries, and rhododendrons. They are also excellent to use as a cushioning mulch for garden paths and will release their pine scent when walked upon. Sawdust: Available from timber mills or other wood processing businesses. As it decomposes it can cause nitrogen loss from the the soil so if used in garden beds apply nitrogen rich fertilizers regularly. Sawdust is an excellent mulch for garden paths. It is not recommended to use sawdust from chemically treated or painted wood. Straw: Can be used for winter protection as an overlay in muddy areas and will provide some traction on icy paths. It is also frequently used as a mulch in veggie gardens. Do not use straw mulch in frequently used areas as it is highly inflammable. Do not use it to mulch walkways as it can be easily ignited by a carelessly tossed smoldering cigarette butt. Wood Chips: Can be obtained from arborists, utility companies, municipal yard waste facilites, and garden centers. They are very long lasting and make a good overlayment for paths and walkways. To learn more about mulch and the wonderful effect of compost and micro-organisms in the soil please visit the "Soil, Compost, and Mulch Forum" and do read their fabulous FAQs. Taking care of your soil is vital to having a garden of healthy and vigorous plants.

I also consider myself a middle of the road gardener. I try to take advantage of any organic matter that I have. But you can have too much of it as anything else. If you try to grow plants in 100% organic matter you will likely have problems such as draining or compaction even low fertility; because your plant swill not be able to use the elements It contains First the organisms in the soil must break it down into a soluble form the plant can take up in its roots. Most experienced gardeners have an understanding of the importance of the NPK and trace elements. They are important to the plants and also to the microbes and fungi, as well as us animals. I see people that use buzz words and terms such as organic vs inorganic, synthetic vs natural chemicals. Salts are bad for the environment. No till is better than tilling the soil. But the simple fact is the world is made of chemicals, including life. All chemicals are made from the basic elements, and by definition natural. If the elements in a chemical are the same it makes no difference to the plants if they are manmade or by any other organism. Salts are bad because they can build up in the soil.. That is possible but it is not a common occurrence. It happens primarily in deserts where there is not enough rainfall. I would offer the chemical definition of a salt. Chemistry. any of a class of compounds formed by the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms of an acid with elements or groups, which are composed of anions and cations, and which usually ionize in solution; a product formed by the neutralization of an acid by a base. The key words for this topic are; which usually ionize in solution: that is dissolves in water. I would say that when most people see or hear the word salt they think of table salt Sodium chloride, which has little use in the garden. But there are many chemicals classed as salts. Plants can only take minerals from the soil when they are dissolved in water, and for the most part those chemicals are salts. No till is better than tilling the soil. It is true you can over till your soil if you pulverize it to the point it causes compaction. But the reason for tilling soil is to mix up the top mostly organic layer with the mineral nutrients in the lower area. And to incorporate air which is as important to the biomass of the soil as water. If you make your own compost you know how much faster things happen when you turn your compost pile. That is you are tilling your compost. Even no till lasagna gardens are tilled but it is primarily done by earth worms. Worms are great but they are much slower than a garden tiler or garden fork.