Wendy, sorry to hear about your troubles but remember that rough roads serve only to make us stronger. Although I hate the idea of moving...YUCK!! I feel for you. I'm sending SASBE with list& stamps tomorrow. Email going your way as well. Thank-you for the kind offer and please let me know once you're settled and I'll send you some seeds or plants. Don't have much but I can always raid my sister's yard since I planted everything there....LOL!! So please let me know what I can contribute later. Thanks again.!!! Always a friend, Sunshine98

Fall planting is recommended because when the winter stem buds are set these send hormones to the root tips that make them elongate all in one big flush - the most for the whole year, because the rest of the time something is going on to make conditions less favorable for root growth. In winter the plant is basically hibernating, the roots the least active for the whole year. In spring new roots grow but so does the top, so the energy has to be shared. In summer there is some root growth but not nearly what there is in fall. To capture the full benefit of the fall root push you have to get the plant in the new planting site before the stem buds have matured. And most of the root tips need to be intact, if a specimen is planted with the roots having been cut to correct circling and other deformities it won't react to this much if at all until the stem buds open in spring.

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I think it also depends on the layout of your space and your other lighting. We skipped them because we only have one run of upper cabinets, it's only 4 feet long, and it's not a primary workspace (mainly fridge landing zone, and toaster oven lives there so that takes up almost half of the counter). I also have them in my work kitchen and we virtually never use them, even at night, because they're not over the major prep/cooking space (which is an island in that case). So it seemed like we might be spending a big chunk of our electrical budget on something we might not use (and could add later if we felt the need). I did plan our overhead general lights so that one of them was directly centered on that counter. When we just had light bulbs in the fixtures, I was getting shadows on that counter and worried that we needed to add UCLs (our cabinetmaker insisted that he build space for them in case we ever changed our minds!) Once we put the shades on the lights, though, the shadows on the counter went away. BUT we have to have the overhead lights on to work in that space, which I would hate if it were a primary work zone. (We lit our primary work zone with pendants that are separately switched.) So short answer---no, you don't always need them. But in your plan, it looks like 2 and 3 are major prep zones---so I think you need them there. Even if you have incandescents for 2, you will still get some shadows under the cabinets there, which might bug you if that's your major work space. (You might get away with not having them for 3 if you mainly plan to work between sink and range and have good range hood lights, but if you're doing them on one side, might as well make it consistent.) For 4, it really depends on what that space is for. If it's work space that you want to be able to use independent of general lighting, I'd put them there too. If it's just fridge landing space (is that the fridge in that corner? can't tell!), probably not a huge deal. HTH!