I can offer a cutting of Brug. Jean Pasco/Dr. Suess. Explanation-I got it in a swap and the sender couldn't remember which it was but those were the only two she had. As they are different colors, she told me to wait till it blooms, then I'd know which it was. It hasn't bloomed yet, only got it in April, so I'm still unsure which it is. Lori

The Accordion shaped leaves are a direct link to the lack of watering while the plant was in growth. The lack of flowers are a link to the plant not getting enough light. I only post to things I have and I have 3 Sharry Baby's. One I almost killed from over watering 3 years back so I mounted it( My easy solution cause I have HIGH humidity). Another one is in a true orchid pot(The UNglazed clay pots with slits), the 3rd is my 1st attempt wit Semi Hydro(SH) with any ONC. All get approximately 60% sunlight( Probably to much but they thrive where I'm at in latitude). Sharry Baby is a Hardy and Prolific plant. They need less watering in winter(Aprox once a week) And more watering in the spring/summer or whenever new growth starts(aprox twice a week). Light levels should be around 2000FC a day for a min of 4-6hrs. When they get more or less light they will let you know by either tinging red/purple or not blooming...The pic you posted appeared to be a nice bright area, keep it there and see what it does this year. I'm with everyone else for the repotting into an unglazed pot and this is the best time of year to repot too. Once in it's new home stick to a watering regime. Humidity isn't too much of a factor with this plant but how and when it's watered is. Drench it in the sink whenever you water it and FORGET about it in between. Between that and more light, you should see masses of blooms in early\late fall!!!

I'm not sure whether you can get a really good blooming Sharry under HIDs. I have HIDs and in fall when they are on, it is very hot down there. It doesn't really cool off in the light room until the winter has set in. Just not sure that several months of daytime highs of 95= is the way to bloom them. They might set spikes in winter after it gets a lot cooler. Also, the plants tend to be tall, so the lights are at least 2 feet away, maybe more. Light drops to 1/4 that at the source at a distance of 2 feet. So could be not quite enough light for a lot of blooms. But I've gotten many, many spikes on mature Sharries, that bloomed on over more than 6 months by the simple expedient of keeping them outside in late summer and fall as the days shorten and the cooler weather comes on. I got the best bloom of all the year I kept them out until the temperature went well below 40 in late October. They burst into bloom almost the minute they were brought indoors. At least a half-day of sun. Sharries can bloom at other times of the year, but the orgy of spike setting is in the fall. Either long nights or cold nights seems to stimulate the spikes. Worth a try if you have a spot to set them out in.

Despite all the warnings I've heard, I've learned oncidiums really like water. I would 1) put it in a smaller pot, and 2) use a smaller bark mix (seedling mix if you can find it in NZ. Their fine roots will be much, much happier. If you cant do that, I'd put an inch of sphagnum on top to help keep some of the humidity in the bark for longer. I heavily mist all of my oncidiums every day, and give them a good long soak once or twice a week. They can't seem to get enough of it, along with really bright light.