In a word, no. Nutsedge has a hard underground structure that resembles a cherry pit and is very pernicious. A mechanical means of elimination is the only remedy that I know. If you can deny photosynthesis by removal of the top growth, and it may require repeated pulling or hoeing, you will eventually get the upper hand. Work to ensure that the plant does not reseed or the problem multiplies exponentially. In my experience there is no silver bullet.

It has appeared in different places in my lawn several times over the years. I've done nothing special and it disappears. The only thing I can think it that is is water loving and my watering method (once per week in the summer and once every 2 weeks in the rest of the year) starves it for moisture. I've seen it thriving in the middle of a river (high ground) so I know it loves water.

You'll probably laugh, but some Nutsedges respond to white vinegar. Buy a big gallon bottle 5% solution and spray it on.
Worked for me. Search engine nutsedge & Vinegar.

There is a commercial product that also works on all nutsedges. HD carries it. Pricey. Can't think of the name.

sedges hammer

Oldpea: some farmers in north Florida would turn their hogs loose in the fields where the "nutgrass" got too thick. Of course, there was nothing planted in the fields when the hogs were there. This was said to be the best method of control and a very effective one, barring herbicides, in vegetable fields. One old guy told me about eating the "nuts" when he was a kid during the depression, I tried it, they taste like turpentine. Oh yes, one small drawback to the hogs, the field is rough as hell to run a tractor through when the hogs finish rooting out the nutsedge.

As Dave has stated nutsedges are plants of very moist soils, their native habitat is the edges of wetlands. Most places I see nutsedges growing around here, aside from wetlands, are lawns with automatic sprinklers that water daily and creat an environment that those plants like. Vinegar will, for a short time, kill the top growth as well as the top growth of any other plant it contacts, but vinegar does not kill the undesireable plants roots.
Take a good, in depth, look at your soil and correct any soil related problems that exist aiming toward making that soil something the nutsedge will not grow in.

Best time to pull them out is after soaking rains. It makes it a lot easier to pull the whole root system out.

In our area, nutsedge grows anywhere and everywhere. I began noticing it a few years ago when it began to invade my yard, garden, and the landscapes I work on my days off. Unfortunately, the day off job is not for an organic landscaper, and the only thing that has worked for us is sedgehammer. I tried vinegar in my yard, but the plant slows growth, then begins anew. Pulling the plant leaves the "nuts" or tubers in the ground to begin anew. I have had luck pulling the young plants, and then focusing on all new plants to come up from the tubers. Eventually, they seem to die out this way but it is time and effort consuming. The lawns I take care of are all way upper class properties, $500,000 homes and up, and the grass is lush and well maintained. Once the nutsedge establishes one plants, it rapidly sends out new roots with the "nuts" sending up new plants. It is imperative to get to this one as soon as possible to stop an infestation. Several accounts that cancelled early last year, called us back to start anew when they found many square yards of lawn infested. Kimm is correct - the plants thrive in a well watered area - but in the last two years we have seen the plants also begin to thrive in new, drier more arid areas. This one is a bi@*h kitty to get rid of. A couple of years ago, thick dense healthy lawns didn't get this , but now the plant seems to have modified it's growth requirements and is now less selective in where it grows. I have one community property that in 07 did not have any nutsedge on it - even though a creek to the south was covered up by it for many years prior. Last year, it made a huge attempt to take over this 8 acre property - and it didn't start at the south side!
Now, every property owner that utilizes us for weed removal, always asks us to make sure we eradicate the nutsedge.

Yikes!! Timo

One more thing about my soil that may discourage nutsedge is the pH. My limestone soil runs a pH around 8 or higher. It could be that nutsedge is just not adapted to this soil and that makes it easier to eradicate. Then again I see yards that seem to have real problems with it for decades. In fact my neighbor next door has some growing on their side of my driveway. I don't know what is keeping that alive. The only moisture it gets is condensation from the air conditioner.

Oldpea, not sure exactly what your situation is and what you are trying to accomplish but I have brought nutsedge under control with paper products covered in a thick mulch. Of course this was done for me to create flower and vegetable beds and this method would obviously not work for someone trying to create a grass lawn.

I get a blade to come up here and there but nothing to worry about. I don't even freak over not getting the nut anymore. If I do, great, if not, oh well, I'll be putting another thick layer of mulch (no paper anymore) come fall. I do make every effort to get the plant before it flowers and goes to seed though.

Hope I've given you some hope:)
Michelle