Sure, we can get you through it. When you buy the cable, ask for the kit that has the arm with it rather than using the old style cable that has the barrel looking end. Get the pin that retains the arm just in case whilst you're standing at the parts counter.You can choose to take half the mower apart or do it a less intrusive way. Your choice. You may want to see if they can shoot you a few pages from the manual if you choose to tear it down. The illustrations would make it easier. They are pricey enough repairs is true.

OK the dealer had the kit, but wasn't helpful on what I needed to do. I guess the right guy wasn't there, but I don't think they looked. It even says to consult the manual to do the repair in the packages instructions. It makes me leary.

If you can be precise enough, you can do this cable w/o tearing the machine apart. Have a couple of punches ready. One has to be small enough to drive the pin through the transmission shaft. A thin nail or drill bit helps things along too. A good pair of needle nose pliers helps. First drain the fuel and then tell your wife to help you lift the mower on to the dining room table...:) A bench will do- just have it up where you can work at it comfortably.
Remove the upper cable hardware. Tip the mower on its right side. Drive the pin through the shaft. You may need to bend the old arm down a bit to allow the pin to drive through. Lift off the arm. Take your needle nose and squeeze the outer lower cable to release it, twisting the old cable may be needed so you can line the tabs up w/ the pliers. Pull the new cable through the top hole in the deck from the bottom by attaching it to the old cable. (tie, tape etc). Wiggle the new arm on to the shaft and retain it with that thin nail or bit. This gives you flexibility to hook the spring ahead of the arm and set the new pin. It may be helpful to have something to wedgie the arm down so you are sure the spring stays in place as you drive the pin in.
One that is done, hook the new end over the arm, align the cable up with the outer cable retainer and install the upper end of the cable. If the lower is aligned, squeezing the control will snap it into place. You might have to wiggle it w/ the pliers and pull on the bail at the same time. I adjust the cable by making the slow speed just crawl and where you could just slide a feeler gauge in the spring on the high speed. That's it, I think. Let me know if I missed something. Good luck.

Your instructions worked good. I did get one of "those looks" from my wife! This is what I needed to get the job done myself. Thank you. The mower works as it should. I went ahead and changed the oil, ran it out of gas and cleaned it up like new so next spring should be quick and easy when I need it next. Do you know why the new cable design not the same as the old?

Good deal. My guess on the redo is that the old barrel could bind and stress the cable in that area more.