Just some general notes... the 5-10-5 recommendation was to get your soil back up to "optimal." It is not a long term plan. For ongoing growth, grass mostly needs nitrogen. If you use synthetic fertilizers, a decent plan is to use the general turf fertilizer 3 times a year and a balanced fertilizer once a year. If you follow one of the "step" programs, they usually include 1 step that has more of the other nutrients already. If you go with an organic program, Milorganite is between the standard turf fertilizers and balanced fertilizer in terms of nutrients, so it all evens out in the end. Also, this is about the latest you would want to fertilize a cool season grass in NC. A mild fertilizer like Milorganite would be fine now. What you don't want to do is apply a high nitrogen fertilizer in the heat of summer.

It's a good report. You should understand that it's probably standard for your neighborhood, and not standard for my neighborhood, but all of my neighborhood shares the same general soil characteristics, as does yours, but they are different. 1. You built in a hayfield. That means the bacteria, the mychorrizal fungus, the tiny critters, that live on the most common plant in the area, while taking over, have not yet successfully transitioned from 'field' to 'lawn', but they're working on it. I'm tempted, at first, to just leave it, but you might get ahold of a company like Bio-Vam, and order up a dose of mychorrizal fungus,and spray it on your lawn. It really did help me out, a few years back. Reach me here, if you decide to do this, I can give you a few tips. 2. The lawn does not have enough organic matter, which surprises me, given that you have 2 acres. I'm assuming you leave the lawn clippings on the lawn. Are you mowing high? You should. Mowing at 3.5 to 4 inches will really help that lawn keep organic matter. I had a pal talk to me, two acres, and it turned out he was mowing at one inch, literally, and it looked like a pool table, with an unshaven stubble: he will never have a lawn. Mow high. 3. Ignore the potash. It's not really a deficiency, and will change, over the next five years. Keep the report, as we're going to compare 'next year's' report to this one. 4. Don't add fert that has any, or not much, phosphorus. For TODAY, not three weeks from now, if you can add a half-dose of urea, I would. Keep this in mind: if you are un-disciplined, or not mechanical, or somehow overwhelmed by this job, just pass on the job: no offense taken. If a normal application of fertilizer would be a 6 on your tow-behind spreader, I'd like you to get some urea, and spread it around, almost immediately, using a setting of 3. You can't do a full dose, you have to do a half dose. A full dose, with summer almost upon us, would burn the lawn, and we don't want that. But a half dose would be perfect. Urea is something like 30-0-0, or 45-0-0, and it's all nitrogen, no phosphorus, no potash. But it has to be a light dose. Lime: Is best put down over several small applications, spread out by at least three weeks, rather than one big boomba application. You always, always, want pelletized. It flows, just like fertilizer, through your tow behind rotary spreader. For two acres, go over to H/D or Lowes, and get six bags, three for each acre. Throw it on the lawn. Eight to twelve bags per acre would be mathmatically correct, and you are not remotely interested. Solve that small problem one small step at a time. By the way, we're going to do another application, either in late fall, or early spring. Let me say this: you are at that wonderful stage, at the beginning, where almost everything you do will be correct, will show an immediate improvement, and even better, will improve MORE after that. Take this stuff in slow, rather than big, stages or applications. Give the lawn time to be a lawn. Mow tall, rather than short. You probably want a tow-behind boom sprayer (I LOVE mine) for a few hundred, to put down weed killer or liquid fert. Shop around, and reach me here if you're not finding what you need. Do not add phosphorus, or add darn little. Ignore the potash, it's fine. Let us know, here, what you're doing. You're gonna love this job.

I probably wouldn't add all the lime. Your pH is basically right in the middle of the range that Tifway 419 likes to grow in. A little wouldn't hurt, as most rain now a days is acidic, but I would go easy on it. To determine the other amounts you need to convert acres to square feet. There are 43,560 sq. ft/acre. For P, you have 1.42 lbs/2000 sq.ft, and you need 4.6 lbs/2000 sq. ft. So you need to add 3.2 lbs of P to your lawn. Since the superphosphate you bought is 14% available, you need to add 22.85 lbs of it to your lawn. Your K levels are higher than the recommended, so no need to worry about K. Most fertilizers list on the bag what setting you should put your spreader on to properly distribute the product. If this is absent, then divide your fertilizer in half, and do a little trial and error with your spreader setting. Try to err on the side of not applying enough, and do the yard in a north/south direction. Once you do the whole yard, you should have some product left in the spreader. Then add the other half and increase the spreader opening a bit and do the yard in the east/west direction.

"I assume azdoctor has reviewed your lab results? Unless someone is willing to go the extra mile and explain their rationale, I'd just ignore them. Maybe he thinks lawns don't need any chemical other than nitrogen, but we'll never know unless he decides it is worth his time to explain his understanding of healthy soil chemistry." Sorry - I did not explain myself very well. I based my recommendations on the soil test provided. It was not a blanket statement. Grasses, like all other plants require N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, B, Cl, Fe, Mn, Mo, Ni, Zn. The soil test indicated that most of these did not require adjustment, hence my recommendation. There is a sliver of truth to some of the comments regarding BCSR and soil structure. We use exchangeable sodium percentage (ESP) to evaluate the impact of sodium on soil structure. Alternatively, we can use the Sodium Adsorption Ratio (SAR) a ratio of the chemical activities of sodium to calcium plus magnesium. These are routinely used, and are not nutrient based (sodium is not a plant nutrient). These are most important in high CEC, clayey soils. Structure is less important in sandy soils. Somewhere I posted some articles that describe results of tests comparing BCSR and SLAN. Science is not a belief system. It is a method of evaluating facts. Read up on the facts and then make a conclusion - NOT A BELIEF.