want to overseed with KBG so that it takes over

16 years ago

My full sun front lawn has too much fine fescue (actually much of it is) and I'd like to do a very heavy overseed with some aggressive, fast growing type of KBG. Ideally I'd like to start the front lawn over from scratch but I don't think I could handle (emotionally) the chemicals needed to kill it off and looking at a dead lawn for a month or two.

What's my best plan of action so that the KBG really takes hold and becomes the dominant grass? My concern is that in the Fall my fine fescue does really well, so it might not allow much room for the KBG to establish itself. Any recommendations for type of KBG and tips for overseeding?

Comments (3)

turf_junkie
16 years ago
You are right - the fastest way to convert to Bluegrass is by killing the existing vegetation. It may take multiple growing seasons (years) for the Bluegrass to become the majority of the lawn if you don't.

If you MUST keep the existing lawn, severe power raking, aerating, low mowing and high seeding rates will give you you're best bet. I would assume high fertilizer rates would favor Bluegrass because fine fescue doesn't like high nitrogen.
newlyorganic
Original Author
16 years ago
Well, i suppose i don't HAVE to keep the lawn, I just know it would drive me nuts (Although truthfully, keeping the darn fine fescue going each summer is stressful). If I were to nuke the lawn, what are the steps?

Any suggestions for which KBG grass type? I was thinking an aggressive type would be good like NorthStar. In various redone sections of my backyard I've used just the standard mix from Agway and seems to work well, spread nicely, etc., but I don't know KBG type they use.
Related Discussions
overseed with kbg or kbg+tttf
Q
Comments (7)
bestlawn, In talking to a couple of landscapers in the area, the new TTTF cultivars were brought up. My first thought was no way, I had never heard of it being used in my area. I began to look into it a little more, and saw it was being used more and more. In learning that the newer cultivars are able to be blended well (in some people's opinion) with KBG, I started to think it might be a good idea. I liked the idea of the deeper roots and drought tolerance, along with the disease resistance. The more I read other posts on here about KBG, I began to realize that I may be able to find the same things in the right cultivars of KBG. I guess I heard the hype of this wonder grass called TTTF, and jumped on the band wagon, (Not to offend anyone who has TTTF) but then, second guessing myself and fearing it wouln't work, (and not wanting my husband to say "What did you do, I told you the lawn looked fine the way it was") I came here and am humbly begging for your help! Just to add: I have average wear. I have 2 kids, (4 and 1)(unless you count my husband, the big kid!) and we spend plenty of time outside, but not necessarily playing on the lawn. I would say it is more going from yard to yard type wear, with the occasional activity on it. The kids on the street are older so they tend to play their games of fotball and baseball in their yards (thank goodness for that!) I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to my lawn (and if anyone knows of a good support group for this, my husband would be happy to join me up!)I cannot go outside to even play, without examining and critiquing my lawn. I enjoy it, and am willing to put the time and effort into it. We live on a cul-de-sac of 13 houses and I would not mind my lawn sticking out like a sore thumb (as the nicest, of course) and I would be happy to give you guys, and gals all of the credit (ok, most of the credit!) Sorry for the rambling! Thanks again!
...See More
Overseed only with KBG?
Q
Comments (9)
"Have not had a soil test done. I know I should. I just go by local area recommendations." I used to be in this boat, but it is one instance where ignorance isn't bliss. My first soil tests showed pH's of 5.5 for my front yard, and 4.4 for the back with deficiencies of macro and micro nutrients, and I was wondering why my grass struggled, duh. Get a soil test, it's 20 dollars that pays for itself (www.loganlabs.com). Anyone that is trying to grow a great lawn that doesn't get a soil test is fighting an uphill battle. "Where did you buy the Sunny Mix? It seems only Fescue seed is available in the big stores in my area." The only reason(s) for buying a big box store mix is because it's a lot easier to just go to the store and buy the bag. The reasons why you shouldn't are many. They usually contain mediocre, older cultivars that don't perform well. They can contain weed seeds. They are often more per pound than better seeds from a reputable seed seller especially if they have a watersmart coating. The mixes are poorly thought out and usually contain grass you don't want or need. I have seen very few good mixes/blends at Home Depot, most are to be avoided. The seeds offered are usually specific to the location of the store, i.e. you won't see Bermuda seed in a Connecticut store. This is probably why you don't see KBG in your area, as it's not generally thought of as a grass that should be grown in NC. As I mentioned earlier, there are those KBG cultivars that are more appropriate for your location.
...See More
tttf, kbg, or prg. which best to overseed all fine fescue lawn
Q
Comments (3)
Hi John, thanks for responding. I did think initially that it was something to do with the hot weather, but I am still leaning towards the leaf spot / melting out. In one of the areas it started a month or so ago before the hot weather really kicked in. I did see some information about the possible alleopathic affects of PRG on other grasses, but I'm not really sure how that would impact the fine fescue that I have already or any new seed I might overseed with. It seems like a lot of store bought mixes include PRG along with KBG or fescues. If PRG was that bad I don't know why they would include it in the mixes. Then again I know store bought stuff is not always the best. Does anyone else have any thoughts on what would blend well into predominately fine fescue lawn?
...See More
Dallisgrass! Overseed or start over? What grass type?
Q
Comments (29)
There are two kinds of sedge you need to be concerned about. Nutsedge (nut grass) is one of them. It is a swamp type plant that practically requires continual moisture. Deprive it of continual moisture and it seems to go away by itself. I've had several infestations following some calamity in my lawn. I've done nothing and it goes away. The only thing I can think of is the lack of water from my infrequent watering habit. I've seen nutsedge growing on a high spot in a river. Once your grass is in and you go to deep, infrequent watering, the nutgrass may go away. Give it until next June and then do something about it. The other sedge is green kyllinga. It looks just like nutsedge until it goes to seed. Green kyllinga will grow in very dry soil. My neighbors have some on a side of their house which has not received any water in 20 years other than rain. While it can stand the dry soil, it is only growing up against their house on the west side, so possibly it cannot stand a full day of sun.
...See More
bestlawn
16 years ago
Midnight II
Prosperity
Brilliant

Equal parts by weight
3-4 (no more) pounds/1000
Mow this lawn at about 2.5 inches. Higher if you wish.

You can purchase these from Roselawn Agriseed
503-651-2130 ask for John

1. Get a soil test. Call your nearest county extension service for a test kit and sampling details. It will likely take two weeks for results. If you need to apply sulfur, lime, or any other amendment per test recommendation (that is not applied in Step 6), you can do it after seeding if you don't get results back in time.

2. Apply that "R" word stuff and again one week later. You can seed the lawn one week after the second app.

3. Scalp it down

4. Rake it up

5. Core aerate

6. Fertilize

7. Sow seeds (slit seeding is preferred)

8. Topdress 1/4 inch layer compost, peat moss, or clean straw (weed-free).

9.
water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks
water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week
water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week
water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week
move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week.

Starting off, the schedule supplies roughly 1/4 inch of water, then increases that amount while decreasing frequency of application at the same time. Like practically everything that concerns lawn care, this schedule is a general guideline and should be modified to accomodate your specific conditions. The lengths of time should be modified if you have an automatic sprinkler system since that will not take as long to provide adequate moisture. So, decrease amount of water (time) but maintain frequency as is. The tuna cans test is recommended. If it is still especially warm, you may want to irrigate 3 times a day (10-15 minutes if necessary) for that first couple weeks. Your objective is to keep the upper 1 inch of soil moist and not let the seeds dry out.

Baby the grass for the rest of year. Once the seeds begin to germinate, don't walk on it if at all possible.

Both core aerating and slit seeding are suggested, but you don't want to do both. My suggestion is to slit seed (1/4 inch deep) for optimum success. I only say that because you can cheat on aerating with Nitron.

want to overseed with KBG so that it takes over

Comments (3)

turf_junkie

newlyorganic
Original Author

Related Discussions

bestlawn

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

want to overseed with KBG so that it takes over

Comments (3)

turf_junkie

newlyorganicOriginal Author

Related Discussions

bestlawn

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

newlyorganic
Original Author