If your Big Box store doesn't carry sharp/mason sand at a reasonable price, many of the landscape suppliers or garden centers that sell it by the yard (they may not call it mason sand), will often allow you to buy it by the bag. ( commercial Gravel and Sand yards usually won't) They might require you to fill the bags yourself-mine do. The other sand you find at the Big Box stores is for mixing concrete and it will contain small pebbles and stone shards. I've used it in a pinch, but I recommend avoiding it.

@maxima9 It is most likely an air pressure switch. That is what the clear tube going into the back of the control panel senses. As the water in the drum fills it creates air pressure in the tube. The other end of the tube goes into the drum and is usually connected to the center agitator which has holes in it. As the water fills the drum the water will fill the clear tube and increase the air pressure. This pressure change is then read by the computer in the control panel. Once the correct pressure is reached for a small, medium or large load then water inlet valve is turned off. It is most likely all computer controlled and not defeatable. I suppose you could cut the tube and insert an tee. Then attach a tube to the bottom of the tee and route it outside your washer somewhere convenient. Then put a gas tight valve on the end of the tube. When you want more water in the drum open the valve to allow air to enter the clear tube and keep the pressure inside the tube low. Once the water level is close to your liking, close the valve and the pressure will then build inside the tube and eventually reach the proper pressure to turn off the water. That procedure above would all be premised on their being no timer on the water fill valve. Many computer controlled valves don't rely JUST on the pressure switch, but rather amount of time the valve has been open as well. This is to prevent a flood. The fill valve has a max GPM rating that can't really be exceeded by increasing pressure. The manufacturer knows what this rating is and programs the computer to close the fill valve before the tub would theoretically overflow. This is usually a safety in case the pressure switch fails. Even if you COULD increase the water level there is no guarantee that the motor is strong enough to properly agitate. If they designed it for 6-10 gallons of water and you can fit 25-30 in it that would mean the motor has to work with 240 instead of around 80lbs, plus the weight of the clothes. You see to be an eco washer also means they can cheap out on parts as well. Smaller motor, less cost, etc. I would not "trash" the washer. Just sell it used on any of the normal online places. Someone will take it. Then don't make the same mistake again.

Thick. We would never do this if it was not for the fact that flagstone was already laid in the entry of our home in view of the new addition. I've tried to convience DH to bust it up and we'd do it all in the slate, since we've slain that dragon before. I've looked at the stoneyard (we haven't bought it yet) and I think I've spotted ehough that is gauaged to a half inch, obviously the thiner the better. Of course flagstone is flagstone and thick and rustic. Alice and Flyleft thanks for your words of advice too. Appreciated. We've got tons of photos and I've got to get my act together and learn to post them.

One thing you can do, is add about 1/4" to 1/2" of clean sand at a time. The existing turf will re-establish itself at the new height over time, and then continue on with another layer of sand. Adding "dirt" or soil can be problematic if it is of a heavier or clay type. The idea is not to add a layer of poorly draining soil on top of well drained soil. Sand of course drains well, but it will incorporate organic material over time and become good soil. Fall is THE time to do this though, trying to get turf to grow in the spring is kind of a rookie move. As soon as summer starts to wane (late August round these parts) prepare your seedbed, put some seed down and fert and water it in every day for a couple weeks. It is the only way to go for cool season turfgrasses. The problem in the spring and summer is every friggin' weed on the planet is going to compete with the young seedlings. In the fall the temps are more conducive to bluegrass germination and growth and the weed competition is far less.