You had better check to see if your vegetables are even safe to eat after this insult. I don't think Mallet is registered for use on food crops. Are you saying you plan to gather and eat this stuff? Do not do that until you are sure it's safe to do so. I am very familiar with imidicloprid. It's the active ingredient in some greenhouse pesticides. Although I think it has been registered for use in some OTC products, what you were sprayed with isn't an OTC product. It has a long half life in soil. One source I saw quoted from about a month to over 200 days. That can affect whether you can even plant food there next year. Google Mallet, get the manufacturers number and tell them what happened and ask THEM!!!! if your food is safe to eat.

Clover grows and spreads not only by seeds but by stems also. If you've had a wet spring, including higher than average snowfall, they are likely to crop up a little early. 1 to 2 inches of anything will smother the lawn. The most you want to apply is half an inch at a time, but a quarter inch is recommended. Don't wait after applying the compost/topsoil mixture to sow seeds. It will cradle the seeds very nicely to ensure seed/soil contact, or you can apply 1/4 inch of the mixture over the seeds as a topdressing. As mentioned, you'll have to wait several mowings per label instructions before you can apply herbicide after seeding. That will naturally work out to be more than 2-3 weeks because it will take that long for the new grass to grow high enough to mow for the first time. If you planted Kentucky bluegrass, it might take 4-6 weeks before the first mowing. Are you totally confused now? LOL With a pre-emergent herbicide for broadleaf weeds, you can likely prevent dandelions from cropping up over the next month and hopefully curtail the clover to some degree. The manufacturer of Portrait (scroll down) told me it will not prevent grass seeds from germinating. You want to double check that with them first though. Good cultural practices work in concert to build a healthy lawn that is able to crowd out weed to a great degree. Be sure to apply 1/4 inch compost (mixed wih topsoil if you like) twice a year and follow the maintenance schedule outlined in this thread. It's the 9th response from the top. Pay particular attention to the paragraphs on watering and mowing. The whole thread is a good and helpful read.

It has been over 90 degrees for most of the day lately here, so unless we get a cold snap, it is probably too hot to apply herbicide for the Spring. It has not been spring since April. Welcome to Texas. What happens if I apply it when it is over the recommended temp? Is it just less effective, or a total loss? If its just weaker, it might make sense to try it...at least its less likely to do harm. If you apply when it is too hot, the grass dies. Also, I hadn't thought about keeping it short so the weeds are at a disadvantage. That totally makes sense. I don't know if I can mow two or three times per week, but I can at least try to keep it up as long as I can. With the starter fertilizer, it about needs mowing that often anyway. This could be your biggest problem. 2x to 3x per week is normal for a good looking bermuda lawn. If you mow less often it will be shaggy with seed heads before the week is up. Or, I might have the mower set too high. I've got it at 3", and I've been bagging the clippings because I don't want to be spreading weed seeds. Is that correct? You did not find the Bermuda Bible and memorize it, did you!? As you lower the mowing height you will find the lawn getting a scalped, stemmy look. That is normal. In fact when you get down to your mower's lowest setting, you might want to rent a mower that goes down even lower and get it down to 3/4 inch for at least one mowing/scalping. If you could take this to the limit and mow at about 1/4 inch, you would find the bermuda stems start to grow horizontally and you get a bunch of blades growing off the stem. That is nirvana for bermuda. You need a reel mower for that and you need to mow 2x to 3x per week. Also no need to bag clippings. The way this thread is going it doesn't sound like you have the huevos to really do the right thing with bermuda. It is a demanding grass to grow if you wan it to look nice. It needs deep weekly waterings, 2x weekly mowing and monthly feeding with a high nitrogen fertilizer. No other turf grass needs that much work. It looks good on the golf course and other sports venues but they can pay their employees to keep it up. If you want to deviate from that script, you can have an okay lawn but you will have poor color, poor density (and associated weeds), and a shaggy look. Can you post pictures of your weeds? I'm thinking your clover is not clover but oxalis or black medic. I'm thinking your crabgrass is St Augustine. And there are a couple possibilities for the weed with the little yellow flower but most popular is horse herb.

I am basically in the same boat, though my project is an overseeding of an already established lawn. What I have been doing is walking gingerly around the yard - trying to stay on those spots that had been previously established - and pulling the weeds with a 'weed hound.' Depending on your frame of mind you will either find this to be excrutiatingly tedious or theraputic. good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: weed hound