What about Snapper, they have 2 different walk behind mower lines now. Their top of the line seems nearly identical to mowers they were making decades ago. Everything seems old time heavy duty. Which leads to a few big positives. Reliable proven design, dependable, and when yo do need a part chances are it will be available. (A problem I had with a 10 yr old Murray, sure those generic parts are available at big retailers, as well as some parts for more recent models, but they like to keep you buying new equipment every few years.) Plus they are mostly sold at dealers who are also service shops. When you need your mower serviced, the big retailer wont be the one you bring it to. Look at many of the mowers they have discounted in their discount area. Usually the ones returned for one reason or another often with the sticker of the local repair shop that serviced the machine. Snappers other line is new and designed and priced to compete with mowers sold at the big retailers. Im not sure about the dependability, but if you are using them with different teen operators and on Camp sized property with hills and such with enough area needed mow that two mowers would be needed to cut it quickly then it may be wise to purchase from an authorized service / dealer like Snapper. And the prices online at Snapper are suggested list only. When I got my new Snapper I had moved from a flat 7000 sq ft lawn to a sloped 20,000 sq ft lawn. Considering I had 3 times the amount of lawn, I definetly wanted self propelled, mulching, and a high quality motor. So I picked the old style Snapper mulching deck with the 6hp Kawasaki engine that is used on many commercial models for $599 , $100 under list without bargaining. If I had gone with the standard B&S engine it probably would have been closer to the price of the Deere yout mentioning since the mulch only B&S Snapper is listed at $499 and your planning to get two so you could probably get a nice deal. Ariens also makes a nice mower I was considering, but the Ariens dealer wasnt as close as my local Snapper dealer. Also considering the other equpiment you have it would be even more of a reason for me to buy from a Dealer / Service shop as opposed to a big retailer.

don't feel lonesome afriend of mine got gave to him a 21" selfpropelled,electric start he said that after w while of mowing it would die gas would come out of the carb. found part # ordered one from ebay put it on today start die start die,took it off clened up the old one mowed about 30feet started spitting spurtting then dead it will not hit a lick primer bulb is working insted of shooting a mist into the carb it spewes out of a brass pipe in the carb. could almost run back out spraye carb cleaner in it won't hit a lick.going to try one more carb. if it don't work to the dumpster it goes i even did a compression check 100psi that's good enough to run on.seems to me like troy bilt had a bunch of 2nds not up to standard quality passed them of to lowes and other places got a lowes hot line going to call tommorrow see what they say.not mine they may not talk to mei don't know when engine cos. quit rating engines in hp this is 7.00hp bought a new bolens it's ccs.

Baymee: No, i didn't say, but i really didn't think the spark would be missing. After replacing the key, and checking everything else, maybe i got in too big a hurry to get it running again, so i'll have to check that. But, since i reset the flywheel with a new key and checked the flywheel gap at the coil, tell me what should i do next? Could it have twisted the flywheel/crankshaft relationship? The mower was running at operating speed when the man hit the pipe! And, the key sheared immediately! I know, that when a running engine gets stopped very quickly, that the forces inherent with the inner workings do get damaged, some severely! The flywheel nut seemed to be tight to the correct torque. It took my good half-inch torque wrench to loosen the nut. and also to retighten it. So, Monday morning, i'm going to reinspect the fly key, to make sure it is still ok. I'll let ya know what goes with it, and the fix, if it does fix it! Thanks: Rusty J. A quick thought: Maybe the shop sold me the wrong type of fly key. I'll have to check that, too!

If replacing the rubber faced wheel, there are 4 bolts to remove, and the disc, then install the new wheel and bolt it together. To replace the aluminum disc, which is on the crankshaft, you will probably have to loosen the engine mounting bolts, raise the engine up on blocks of wood, then get under the back end, and using a hammer and a bar, spin the disc off the piece that is held onto the crankshaft.. It is standard right-hand thread, so you would turn it to the left to remove it. If you do not remove the mounting collar with it, just spin the disc off and spin the other one on, and tighten it up with the same tools you loosened it with. Some folks say to remove the engine, but it isn't necessary. A pair of octopus arms are helpful, but you only get those from many years of mechanical and auto body work! NOTE: The correct spacing of the disc is: From the face of the disc to the smooth, engine mounting flange face is 3 7/8 inches. Some say--to the top of the engine mounting area at the big hole--but, it amounts to the same measurement, and is easier to do the way i do it. For this work, it is best to jack the mower up high, and set it on jack stands at the rear. Block the front wheels. use a long 3/8 inch extension, socket and ratchet to get to the engine mtg. bolts!