Transaxle could be a Peerless model 2000-006A. There is problem with the neutral lock-out drive mechanism which can cause the unit to jump out of the drive position and the transmission stops pulling. If you've owned this tractor for 2 years or less....take to an Authorized Tecumseh Dealer, and this will be fixed "UNDER WARRANTY". T-Man

Bill Kapaun, I've studied the electrical schematic that you referred me to and found that it is different than the schematic shown in the Owner's Manual that came with my tractor even though the model number is the same in both schematics. I found a major difference when I disconnected the seat safety switch and installed a jumper across the female connector. When the engine would not start with the jumper installed I realized that the jumper was grounding the ignition. That is because the seat switch on my tractor opens the ignition grounding circuit when the seat is occupied. So by simply unplugging this switch it becomes disabled and the engine starts OK. However the circuit in your referenced schematic works just the opposite and a jumper is needed to disable the switch as you suggested. Another major difference is that my schematic shows no Operator Presence Relay and the parts listing does not contain a relay. In any case, tomorrow, if the rain stops, I'll try the tractor with the seat switch disconnected to see if that solves the intermittent quitting problem. I can email you the electrical schematic from my manual if I knew where to send it. Thanks again for your helpful suggestions. Ray

I've had a YTH21K46 for 8 years now, and recently ran into a similar issue with the forward drive being slow while the reverse seemed normal speed. Replaced drive belt, no go (although thats the first time I'd replaced it since purchase). Bent foot pedal linkage rod a little more which helped, but is not a real fix in my opinion, unless somehow it were to become straightened during operation at some point. Purged transmission per Husqvarna website like the last gentleman said, no go. Turns out that after removing the rear tires, I noticed the poorly done welds had broken between the frame and the rear housing, thus physically altering the location of the transmission/rear axle. I believe the weight of a bagger assembly is a contributing factor to this, as the weight shifting during stop/go operation places a larger load across these welds. I fixed the welds and fixed the issue. Then had to "unbend" the linkage rod back to original form as I was going too fast forward. Hope this helps.

Well I came here looking for the same problem I am having with my GTH2448T. How did you make our JRider with your issue? I was instructed to get some dry gas because maybe there was some water in my gas. I popped off the gas cap and heard a nice venting whisp and placed the dry gas in the tank. It seemed to work and I finished mowing the lawn. I then left it outside and came back to it a few hours later to move it back into the garage. It started doing the same thing, it would start with the choke and then die out. I did overfill the tank and now am thinking all it needed was for me to loosen the cap and let it vent. I'm off to give it a shot. Jrider, did you get it used for $500? I purchased it brand new for $2099 at a local small engine business. Lowe's had it also for around the same price new.