jimmygiii I used to try to time my watering with the wilting of the blades. I was using a rotary impact type sprinkler like all the magazines told me I was supposed to use. Unfortunately those things leave a lot of lawn unwatered. I spend one day watering and the rest of the week trying to catch up with the wilty spots that didn't get watered. Last year I went back to the oscillating type sprinkler. I've had every sprinkler at least twice and the oscillator at least four times. Now I have two of them and love them for my yard. I don't get enough wind down under the tree canopy to blow the water around so it works great for me. But as to wilting, I don't wait that long anymore. Everyone should adjust their watering by something and I prefer to anticipate the wilting and water a little early. When I waited for the grass to wilt, it never developed the density I was looking for. Now it does. 2.75" is a little short for the best appearance and least overall maintenance in my opinion. I mow at my rotary's highest setting and I'm seeing a lot more lawns mowed up high. If the grass is not dense, mowing high allows it to fall over so there is that to consider. If your density is good then mowing higher allows deeper root development, longer water retention in the soil (less evaporation), and less chance of weeds. I get my quiet serenity, such as it is, from an electric mower. I can't quite have a comfortable conversation with it running, but I can at least know if someone wants to talk without shouting.

It is a little high, huh. The guy I bought mine from says he sells 200 flats per week to Mexico. Mine, by the way, is looking horrible, but I am almost certain it is because it gets a lot more sun than I thought it would, and my wife does not water it while I'm away. TW do you know the price of Diamond zoysia? Supposedly it has characteristics identical to Shadow Turf.

Oh my goodness, Texas-Weed, it's a full-time job correcting all your mistakes. Cutting zoysia once a week is NOT infrequent mowing that will lead to excessive thatch. My zoysia has never been cut more often than once a week, and it's never had a thatch problem. But don't rely on my anecdote. Let's look at what Alabama A&M and Auburn have to say about cutting frequency and height. But first before we go to Auburn and Alabama, let's remember from the previous posts in this thread that 2 University of Arkansas professors and 3 University of Florida professors allow for a maximum zoysia cutting height of 2.5 inches, which is significantly higher than your maximum of 1.5 inches, Texas-Weed. Now onto Auburn University's and the University of Alabama A&M's advice for mowing heights and mowing frequencies of various Zoysia grasses. The first thing shown on each line below is the name of the Zoysia species or of the specific cultivar/variety within the species. The second thing shown is the Minimum Mowing Height in inches for that grass. The third thing shown is the Optimum Mowing Height in inches. The fourth thing is the Maximum Mowing Height in inches. The fifth and last thing shown is the Mowing Frequency in days (it's shown in parentheses). Zoysia japonica, 2 , 2 , 3 , (every 7-10 days) Meyer Zoysia, 1 , 1.5 , 2 , (every 10-14 days) Belair Zoysia, 1 , 1.5 , 2 , (every 7-10 days) El Toro Zoysia, 1 , 1.5 , 2 , (every 7-10 days) The above are all cultivars within the Zoysia japonica species (Palisades is also within this japonica species). This species tends to have wider blades and lower shoot density than the other two main zoysia species, which are Zoysia matrella and Zoysia tenuifolia. The tenuifolia species is not common in the U.S. A little bit of it is used as ground cover in parts of Southern California. Alabama A&M and Auburn also list mowing heights and frequencies for some cultivars in the Zoysia matrella species. These thinner bladed grasses have a maximum mowing height of 1 inch, tend to have denser shoot density than the cultivars within japonica, and tend not to have the cold hardiness of the japonica's, so they're not found around here in the northern half of the Transition Zone. Yes, that document is "Under Review," (because universities like to catch mistakes, Texas-Weed), but I saw similar mowing frequency numbers for zoysia printed on the web somewhere else a couple months ago--I don't recall where right now. By the way, I read in a couple textbooks I got from Amazon that a little thatch is helpful to grass. It is *excessive* thatch that is not.

The following link to a thread on the Lawn Care Forum includes a ranking based on drought recovery for a number of Texas lawn options. No source given, but info seems to fit with other references I've seen. Floratam gives best drought performance among St. Augustine choices. Though while it may survive in zone 7, it's usually not sold there because not considered reliably cold hardy on the north side of 8. Palmetto is probably the best colder hardy SA for shade and appears to have better drought performance than Raleigh SA, but not much independent study/test info on this variety at this point. Raleigh has been the "standard" SA recommendation in north Texas for years because of its cold hardiness and disease (SAD) resistance, but we've found it hard to keep healthy on a single weekly deep watering in some full sun areas. We've been patching Palmetto into these trouble spots, but haven't lived with it long enough to judge it's drought performance. However, it does seem to be thriving in heavy shade where the Raleigh was in decline. Here is a link that might be useful: Thread on Empire Zoysia vs Floratam St Augustine This post was edited by bostedo on Mon, May 13, 13 at 14:47