Fallgold turns out to be an interesting raspberry cultivar. Without knowing which plant(s) you sprayed insecticide on and when with respect to the observed pathology, I would say the yellowing, the leaf burn and browning could be caused by chemical damage either from earlier use of insecticide or chloride sensitivity from fertilizers, the beginning of potassium (and magnesium and manganese) deficiencies, poor soil drainage and root growth and root damage, or a combination of these factors. The reduced plant growth and wilting of young tips are more likely related to insufficient soil drainage needed by Fallgold and root damage. Since the causes of plant pathology cannot be differentiated by symptoms alone most of the time, you will have to research and compare the written descriptions and images, or use the diagnostic tool referenced below to ascertain the definitive problems because you have more complete information on the growing conditions and history with these plants and can observe the progression of the symptoms better than anyone. Incidentally, I would repot the strawberries separately without the Fallgold. Many horticultural specialists, including the fruit guide published by Cornell Cooperative Extension suggests, "Do not plant brambles in a site where strawberries or plants in the tomato family (including potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) have been grown" to avoid verticillium wilt (same guidelines for strawberries from other expert sources as well). You may be using a sterile potting mix growing your Fallgold and strawberries together for the first time which does reduce the crop loss potential somewhat. However, verticillium wilt can still happen at any time and because soil-borne fungus Verticillium also can persist in the soil for many years, it may be best not to growth them together even in sterile potting mix. I would say since mitigating the causes related to cane blight and root rot at this stage would be the least detrimental to your plants and most productive in maximizing root health and growth with the information/photos given from my partially informed perspective, I would aim at improving soil drainage first by amending the potting soil to increase the porosity or letting potting mix dry out more between watering either by protecting the planters from rain temporarily or in the near future. If similar leave yellowing, browning, curling, and death repeat themselves and the vitality of the raspberries dose not rebound with improved root health from the amended potting mix, it makes sense then to work on resolving other possible causes, such as chemical injuries and mineral deficiencies. IMAGES OF COMMON DISEASES IN RASPBERRIES See images of root rots in raspberries at: http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/plant_images/drroot6.jpg and http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/comhort/nooksack/ipmweb/Disease_Sheet_5.html. Read and see images of leaf burn caused by insecticides and fertilizers, http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/BerryDoc/raspberry/leavesstems/Raspbrowning.htm Since two identical plant variety exhibit possible symptoms of either blight and root damage from too much moisture or leaf burn caused by insecticide and fertilizers with the first year plant affected more severely than the second year Fallgold, how do these two plants differ in growing conditions, such as potting mix, rain/water, fertilizing rate, or plant care if any? In addition, are there differences or variations in these factors as compared to a third planter, the red container, where strawberries are thriving? CONTAINER #2, this years Fallgold I know you mentioned (along with your photos) that the leaf curl and marginal necrosis got worse after you repotted them, but repotting did not rule out the continuation of wet feet or further root damage if enhanced drainage of the growing medium or increased oxygen uptake by the roots did not take place or significantly counter the added wet and cooler growing conditions. Did you also amend the potting mix to increase the porosity and drainage when you repotted the raspberries? Raspberries require well-drained soil which is especially essential to the Fallgold cultivar, because it is intolerant of wet soils. If the root rot has not affected all the roots (appears to be true in your case), itÂs possible that without amending your potting mix, the problems of rot, leaf curl, and marginal necrosis will disappear on their own and the plant will rebound once you remove the damaged leaves and just shield the planters from excessive rain/water temporarily and by allowing the soil to dry out sufficiently in between watering. On the other hand, since symptoms of poor soil drainage and root rots have had happened a few time, these are signs that it may be worth your effort (and for the plants) to amend the potting mix to increase the needed drainage and aeration of the potting mix with additional perlite, pinebark, Turface, or other soil conditioners in buffering the effects of any recent and future unusual precipitation and temperature or any less than optimal drainage before blossoming and fruiting come into full force. If you are watering 2x per week or less with the rain now with the current potting mix, try to increase the porosity of the mix to maybe watering every other day at a minimum, for example, and then bserve the effects or changes in the raspberries. Increase the drainage of your potting mix may also eliminate the presence of a perched water table on the lower part of the planter (see threads of Al explaining the physics of it) causing sufficient waterlog that can lead to poor root health, rot, and eventual root death. Watering more often will also increase fresh supplies of oxygen to the roots for good root growth and enhanced plant vitality in addition to providing the additional water needed in the upcoming blossoming and fruiting growth stages. Whatever mix you used in the red container (with the strawberries), maybe you can reproduce it to grow your Fallgold, that is assuming the red container of strawberries also gets similar watering, care, and amount of rain as your Fallgold. In fact, the strawberries in that red container look a little dehydrated from the last photo though the leaves look very healthy; they look like they are wilting a bit (or is that leaf curl canÂt be sure from looking at the pictures). CONTAINER #1, second year Fallgold Though with possibly better root helath than the first year Fallgold, this Fallgold may still suffer from poor root health or damage. I donÂt think the second-year Fallgold is diseased with viral infection or pests. On the other hand, I canÂt be certain of that by looking at the pictures as the second year Fallgold seems to have fairly healthy flat unblemished leaves in one picture but then the overall leave colors and shapes arenÂt ideal nor are they flat in the final picture. Thus, Tomato Ringspot Virus and potato leafhopper damage are possibilities based on the leaf discoloration, possible yellow rings and/or line patterns on the leaves, and overall color and growth. Marginal yellowing and downward leaf curl could be potato leafhopper damage. See infected raspberry images at: Figure 2- Potato Leafhopper, http://apps.omafra.gov.on.ca/scripts/english/crops/agriphone/article.asp?ID=1312 According to the Cooperative Extension Service from University of Minnesota, "Tomato ringspot virus is carried to healthy plants through the soil by the root feeding dagger nematode (Xiphinema sp.). Yellow rings, line patterns, or veinal chlorosis commonly appear on the leaves of red raspberry plants. However, new leaves are often void of symptoms. Severely infected plants may appear stunted, yield crumbly fruit, produce poor yields, and/or show a reduction in plant health. Tomato ringspot virus can also be dispersed through infected seed." Source: Raspberry Diseases," University of Minnesota, http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1152.html In general, there is little that can be done to manage a viral infection, and the viral infection often has to be confirmed and tested by a lab. Therefore, I wouldnÂt worry about them for now other than providing improved soil drainage to your raspberries first. REDUCED VIGOR OF BOTH PLANTS The cause of decline in vigor can be caused by virus infection, root damage, nutrient deficiency, and soil compaction. However, once your raspberries have healthier roots and root growth with an increased air-to-moisture ratio, soil drainage, and porosity of the growing media, you would automatically increase the vitality of the plant and eliminated most, if not all four, factors causing reduced growth. Whatever is the actual cause attributed to the pathology, youÂll find most of the browning, yellowing, slow growth, and leave scorch will disappear if you can ensure good root health through improved soil drainage by shielding the planters from receiving and retaining uncalculated precipitation for a long period of time. CANE WILTING & COLLAPSING These can be symptoms root rot, winter injury, cane borers, and spur blight. Raspberry cane borers have been reported in Colorado. Source: Missouri Botanical Garden on Goldfall, http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?Code=W520 See images of affected raspberries at CornellÂs Raspberry Diagnostic Tool, http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/BerryDoc/raspberry/caneslaterals/Rwilting.htm Let us know what is true and works in your case and if the vitality of your raspberries has improved. Enjoy your berries and have fun caring for them.

I think might need to explain a bit more since i think you got the wrong idea. The 3-4 cane pruning is after the growing season is over. This method is only if you want 2 separate crops. If you don't mind being fall only complete pruning is fine. Normally for my in-ground raspberries i prune all but 5 canes max per bunch. This makes sure they produce a decent amount since the weaker 2nd year canes are not there taking up extra resources. My frame of mind was since the raspberry plant put enough energy into growing all those canes i wouldn't want to squander it by letting a couple of the strongest canes to grow the late spring/early summer crop. This post was edited by Erich_k on Sat, May 18, 13 at 21:06

That happened to me last year, and I talked to MSU, they told me wait til about 18 inches tall, then you can pull them. That worked for me, but mine come up later, so that might be a factor too. Mine seemed to be hardened enough to rip out a good chunk of roots with it. It worked, very few came up after that. You want them about 6 inches apart, or 4 per square foot. Yes best to pull later, but like you so many they were an issue for sure. They had to go sooner. Sound like they are tall enough to pull now!

Hi Gang...i gues i was misunderstood in my description, as i know what Crown Borers do, and what Cane Borers do ( Red Necked Too ).....these tender young shoots are new growth that are anywhere from 3 to 8 inches tall now, generally rings and puncture bite wounds appear on new shoots around July/August when those Primocanes are averaging about 2-4 feet in height....they don't attack these little suckers not since iv'e been checking.......Red Necked cane borer showed up yesterday on my Apache Blackberry as i found frass on the top of a 2 foot cane i had just planted last spring, i did see a small gall appear about 3 inches above the soil line and decided to leave in since it was a Primocane and i wanted the Fruit off that, only one cane from that plant so it's hard to prune out these canes when you have only one virtually elimination a summer harvest with a one year wait time on traditional blackberries these are very difficult to deal with, i was thinking of designing a trap to apply to tip of cane so when the borer tunnels up to escape they crawl in instead of dropping to the soil and going wherever, i think catching them in the larvae cycle is critical in order to stop the life cycle....will take some thinking here 4 sure.